Jani Jermans – Travel Diaries

April 25, 2025

A Spiritual Weekend Escape to Thiruvannamalai Temple, Tamil Nadu

Filed under: India — jani @ 8:24 am

About the Temple:

The Annamalaiyar Temple, also known as Arunachaleswarar Temple, is a grand and ancient Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Shiva, located in Thiruvannamalai, Tamil Nadu.  It’s not just a place of worship, but a deeply spiritual experience for anyone seeking peace, divine blessings, or a powerful cultural immersion.

Key Features:

  • Architectural Grandeur: Sprawled across 25 acres, the temple is a masterpiece of Dravidian architecture with its majestic gopurams (towers).

  • Historical Significance: With contributions from the Chola, Pandya, and Vijayanagara dynasties, the temple’s legacy spans centuries.

  • Vibrant Festivals: The Karthigai Deepam festival is a massive celebration, drawing millions of devotees.

  • Spiritual Relevance: Pilgrims perform Girivalam, a circumambulation of the Arunachala hill, believed to be a spiritually cleansing ritual.

The Journey:

Though I’ve passed by Thiruvannamalai many times, I had never stepped into the temple. Knowing Vinod and Sandhya were regular visitors, I had once casually asked them to loop me in on their next trip. Little did I know, that moment would arrive so unexpectedly.

Vinod had planned a spontaneous trip to take their firstborn to the Thiruvannamalai temple—his favorite—while also marking the upcoming birthday of Sandhya, his wife, in the following week. By a stroke of divine timing, I was able to free up and join them. I suggested they spend the night in Chennai with me first, so we could travel together the next day. Since I had work commitments lined up in Bangalore, I decided to tag along with them until then, making it a spiritually charged weekend escape.

Day 1: A Joyous Catch-Up

They drove down to Chennai but took a detour via the new expressway, only to find it incomplete and had to turn back, which delayed their arrival. We laughed it off—it was a good chance to unwind and catch up. As new parents, they’ve had their hands full—late nights, work stress, and no extra help. Just seeing them relax was a joy.

Day 2: The Temple That Almost Wasn’t

After the good rest, we set off in the afternoon, stopping for lunch on the way before heading to Mahabalipuram. Vinod thought the baby might enjoy the beach, but she seemed unimpressed by the waves!

We reached Thiruvannamalai around 8 PM, only to find the temple gates already shut. Despite checking multiple entrances, we were turned away—along with many other disappointed visitors. With work the next day, staying back wasn’t an option.

Trying to ease the disappointment, I joked with Vinod, “Maybe God wants us to visit Him during the day when He’s awake, not when He’s going to rest.” But he took it to heart, feeling his family had been turned away from blessings on their baby’s first visit.

And then, a twist of fate.

We were chatting near a frankincense cart outside the temple, not even asking for help anymore—when the kind vendor heard us and offered to try and get two of us in. Without hesitation, I urged Vinod to go with Sandhya and the baby, but he insisted I go instead. “You’ve never been in,” he said. “You came for this.” That selfless gesture still moves me.

With a bit of a birthday mix-up (the vendor thought it was the baby’s birthday), we got in! Sandhya, the baby, and I were escorted by a staff member for a quick darshan. The temple was almost empty—something unimaginable for this site. It felt surreal.

And just when we thought it was over, Vinod managed to enter too. Somehow, amid the crowd commotion, he slipped in, and it truly felt like the divine red carpet was rolled out for him. The priest was right there, waiting to bless him just before closing.

We waited near the exit for him to finish his prayers, and in that moment, it felt like the universe had conspired to make everything fall beautifully into place.

Back to Bangalore:

We stopped for a light dinner nearby and then hit the road to Bangalore. By early morning, we were back, hearts full and souls blessed.

Final Thoughts:

This wasn’t just a weekend getaway. It was a series of unexpected moments strung together by faith, kindness, and a little bit of magic. For me, it was a miracle moment—something I’ll carry with me forever.

May Shiva’s blessings be with all of you. God bless.

April 24, 2025

Weekend Getaway to Montrose Golf Resort & Spa, Coorg, Karnataka

Filed under: India — jani @ 2:45 pm

I didn’t realize it was the Easter weekend until I randomly called Sur and found out that he had planned a trip to Coorg with Shahrukh and Himanshi. Since my calendar was free, I asked Sur if I could join—and he was happy to add me to the gang.

Day 1
This time, Shahrukh was the designated driver. We made a quick stop for breakfast and reached Montrose Golf Resort by evening. The property looked absolutely stunning—elegant, serene, and a perfect weekend escape.

Upon check-in, we were welcomed with a refreshing drink that tasted more like Rooh Afza. Soon after, we headed straight to the lawn, which instantly became our favorite hangout spot. Since I live in another city, this trip was a rare and much-needed chance to truly catch up with all three of them—Sur, Shahrukh, and Himanshi.

We grabbed some sandwiches and coffee from their café, Arabica. The staff were kind enough to serve everything at the lawn, which we really appreciated. As it got a bit chilly later in the evening, I stepped inside for a work call, wrapping it up just 15 minutes before the dinner buffet closed. Sur thoughtfully saved me some food, but unfortunately, the buffet turned out to be pretty average. Since I wasn’t too hungry after the sandwich, I just ate a little and then crashed for the night.

One thing that disappointed me was the lack of 24/7 food or snack options—something you’d expect at a five-star property. It’s a huge letdown for late-night cravings or those arriving late. Similarly, Sur wanted to try one of the mocktails from the café menu, but we were told they were only available during bar hours, which are tied to the buffet timings. I honestly don’t understand the logic behind that—it defeats the purpose of having a separate café menu.

We tried to book the night herping activity, but it was already full—only five people per slot! Disappointed, we inquired about the bird-watching tour scheduled for the next morning, only to find that was fully booked as well. For such a large property, it was surprising (and frustrating) to see such limited slots for popular activities. Unless you pre-book them while confirming your stay, there’s a high chance you’ll miss out altogether. Definitely a letdown, especially when these are some of the main experiences the resort promotes.

Day 2
After a good night’s sleep, we headed for breakfast—which was decent—and then joined the nature walk. It was originally limited to 20 people, but luckily, they allowed all four of us to join. We genuinely appreciated that flexibility.

The walk turned out to be both informative and enjoyable. We learned about the endangered Indian Frankincense tree (which can’t be cut due to conservation laws), Adi pepper (a premium variety of black pepper), Coorg lemon (which looks like an orange but is a key ingredient in the local pork curry), and parasitic trees that grow by choking their host plants. One interesting tidbit was about fig trees—they always have insects inside them to help with ripening. Someone joked that fig is technically a “non-vegetarian fruit”—we all had a laugh over that!

We also strolled through the resort’s own coffee plantation, where we got to know more about Arabica, Robusta, and hybrid coffee varieties. It was disheartening to learn that the best beans are usually exported, and what we get locally is often the lower-grade stuff. I could totally relate. Initially, I scoffed at the idea of buying cinnamon in Dubai—I mean, why not just get it from Kerala? But once I smelled what they had, I changed my mind. The aroma was so rich and full of essential oil, I can still recall it vividly. It’s a shame we don’t get that kind of quality in India, even at a premium price.

Later in the day, we tried out a golf session and learned the basics of putting. Unfortunately, the experience was cut short due to a bunch of unsupervised kids running around and interfering. Their parents, who were right there, didn’t bother to step in—it became so chaotic that we just gave up and left midway.

Lunch was light—we opted for snacks, and the cheese toast was amazing. We spent some time exploring the property further and checked out the activity zone, where we did a coffee tasting and also visited their in-house museum.

Shahrukh and Himanshi considered going for a swim, but backed out immediately after seeing the pool swarming with kids. Honestly, I wish the resort had a separate pool for adults—it would’ve made a huge difference.

Back at the lawn in the evening, we brought out our wine and chilled. The restaurant was too crowded, so Himanshi kindly brought us some starters, and the staff didn’t mind us eating outside. That made the evening enjoyable again despite the crowd. Eventually, we wrapped up and went to bed.

Day 3

We had another restful sleep, had breakfast, and checked out. Himanshi drove on the way back, and since she prefers a slow pace, I dozed off in the car.

We stopped for lunch at Sri Krishna Café, a veg restaurant (not my first choice, but highly rated), and it surprised us—it was clean, super-fast, and tasty. The service was lightning fast, and we were genuinely impressed.

Then came the cutest part of the day—Himanshi wanted McDonald’s soft-serve ice cream. They didn’t have the chocolate flavour she wanted, so she ordered chocolate fudge instead. She asked for an extra cone and carefully poured the hot fudge into it, sat outside in the sun, and enjoyed her custom treat. It was adorable, and of course, Sur clicked a picture of the moment. Eventually, we made it home by evening—slower but memorable.

Final Thoughts (PS):
Montrose Golf Resort is a beautiful property, perfect for golf enthusiasts and those looking for a quiet, scenic escape. The aesthetics are truly 5-star—elegant, serene, and well-maintained. However, if you’re planning a stay longer than two nights, be prepared. Activities start to feel limited unless you’ve pre-booked everything well in advance—and even then, there’s a good chance you might miss out due to tight slots.

While the buffet food was just average, the Arabica Café stood out for both taste and service. During peak occupancy, the resort could definitely use more dining space—it felt crowded and slightly chaotic at times. Also, a separate swimming pool for kids would go a long way in improving the overall experience, especially for adults looking to relax. It would be equally helpful to have dedicated, kid-free golf sessions, as the current setup doesn’t account for interruptions from unsupervised children.

In short, the resort is ideal for a short, relaxing break—two nights max. It’s not the best fit for those seeking adventure or a packed itinerary unless you’re meticulous with advance planning.

My verdict? Worth visiting once, but not entirely justifiable for the money you’ll spend. That said, the staff were incredibly friendly and hospitable, which really stood out. One kind receptionist even offered to lend me her own sweater when I forgot to pack mine—though I didn’t end up using it, the gesture was truly thoughtful.

January 23, 2025

New Year at The Periya Heights, Mananthavady, Wayanad, Kerala

Filed under: India — jani @ 4:18 am

Mananthavady, the third-largest town in Wayanad, became the perfect backdrop for our New Year celebration. Shah Rukh and the team chose The Periya Heights, a homestay perched on an elevated location, to welcome the New Year.

Day 1: The Journey and Arrival

Our group consisted of Shah Rukh, Himani, Bharat, Sonika, JD, Rijul, Sur, and myself. The drive down to Wayanad took us through the Kabini Reserve Forest, where the roads were in terrible condition, delaying our journey. We stopped for a quick meal before continuing to The Periya Heights, a homestay run by a warm and welcoming couple.

Reaching the homestay proved challenging, as the GPS directions ended near a bridge. We had to rely on Shah Rukh’s guidance and some local help. However, one unnerving moment occurred when a drunk man tried to approach our car, forcing us to drive away quickly. Thankfully, another kind gentleman went out of his way to help us locate the property, despite not knowing the exact address himself.

We managed to reach the homestay just before dark, which was a blessing as driving on those roads in pitch darkness would have been a nightmare. Shah Rukh and his group, having extended their lunch break, learned the hard way about the challenges of arriving late in such remote areas.

Once everyone arrived, we settled in with tea and onion pakodas, followed by a delicious dinner. Exhausted from the drive, we retired early for the night.


Day 2: Exploring Banasura Sagar Dam

After a hearty breakfast, we headed to the Banasura Sagar Dam, the largest earth dam in India and the second largest in Asia. The drive to the dam was pleasant, and the walk up a flight of stairs rewarded us with stunning views. The dam also offered several activities, but the boat rides were overcrowded, so we skipped them.

Instead, the boys indulged in a mechanical bull ride while we cheered them on. Later, we enjoyed a fish spa, with Shah Rukh’s ticklish reactions leaving us in fits of laughter—it reminded me of Sumathi’s antics in Sri Lanka!

We stopped for a quick lunch on the way back and spent the evening watching a breathtaking sunset near the homestay, surrounded by fields of chili and cluster beans. The sunset was one of the most serene moments of the trip. Afterward, we enjoyed a lovely dinner and called it a night.


Day 3: Nature and Culture

Following another local breakfast, we visited the Gurukula Botanical Sanctuary, a haven for native plants of the Western Ghats. The sanctuary was founded by Wolfgang Theuerkauf, a German national, and is now run by a dedicated team of naturalists and gardeners. The highlight was the giant pitcher plants, though photography wasn’t allowed, so we had to carry the memories in our hearts.

Next, we explored the Kunkichira Heritage Museum, which showcases the biodiversity and cultural richness of Wayanad. The traditional objects used by tribal communities were fascinating, and the museum was well-maintained and informative. Outside, we admired a picturesque pond with a Kerala lady statue and a plantain garden interspersed with bitter gourd vines. It was postcard-worthy, and we couldn’t resist taking photos.

In the evening, we strolled through a nearby village, capturing moments by a peaceful stream. Back at the homestay, Rijul and JD took charge of preparing a barbeque for the New Year celebration. We enjoyed delicious food, danced, and welcomed the New Year with joy and laughter before retiring for the night.


Day 4: Farewell to The Periya Heights

After a final breakfast, it was time to bid farewell. Saying goodbye to the homestay owners felt like leaving family—they had made us feel so at home. The journey back was another test of patience, with bad roads slowing us down, but we finally reached home by evening.


Key Takeaways

  1. Best Time to Visit: Wayanad is ideal during the dry season. The bad roads and narrow paths would be nearly impossible to navigate during the rains.
  2. The Periya Heights: Highly recommended! The warmth of the hosts and the serene location made our stay unforgettable.
  3. Plan Your Arrival: Reaching the property before dark is crucial due to challenging road conditions.

Until next time—Udan Kaanam!

June 2, 2024

Bhubaneswar (India) – The Temple City

Filed under: India — jani @ 8:12 pm

About Odisha

Odisha (formerly Orissa) is an eastern Indian state on the Bay of Bengal, known for its rich tribal cultures and numerous ancient Hindu temples. The capital, Bhubaneswar, is famous for its many temples, including the intricately-carved Mukteshvara and the 11th-century Lingaraj Temple complex set around the sacred Bindusagar Lake.

Day 1: After an uneventful journey from Mumbai, I reached Bhubaneswar and checked into the Ginger Hotel, conveniently located near the event venue. I spent the rest of the day resting.

Day 2 to Day 4: The three-day summit organized by the AACCI Odisha Chapter happened in Mayfair hotel and the event was quite insightful. It featured enriching sessions from various industries, fashion shows, and cultural activities. I had the opportunity to network with industrialists, entrepreneurs, government officials, and international delegates. Meeting the AACCI global secretariat team was a highlight, resulting in friendships that will last a lifetime.

Day 5: After breakfast, I spent time with the AACCI team before they departed, understanding more about the chamber. I then caught up on work

Day 6: Post breakfast, Mr. Munna driver for the next three days from the Rego team picked me up for a day of sightseeing. Our first stop was the Jagannath Temple in Puri, a significant Hindu temple dedicated to Jagannath, a form of Vishnu. The temple was crowded, and after offering prayers, we sampled the famous Puri khaja, a dessert that was too sweet for my taste.

We drove through the Golden Beach but didn’t stop due to the heat. Our next destination was Chilika Lake, the largest brackish water lagoon in Asia. After a local meal at a Bengali Dhaba, we took a boat ride on the lake. Despite not spotting any dolphins, we enjoyed watching seagulls up close. We were shown red crabs in a basket, there were four crabs as I thought we will see them in the shore. Then they brought opals and pearls to sell, opal is from coral reef and I was seeing for the first time so it was exciting to see that, though I was unsure of their authenticity. We stopped at an island where the other side was beach. So we picked up Jhalmuri and then enjoyed the beach for some time, came back had nice tea and then headed back to the boat to return back to the main land.

Then it was time for Konark Sun Temple. The light show at the temple was captivating, highlighting the rich history of the site. We ended the day with a delicious fish thali at Sahoo Hotel before returning to the hotel.

Day 7: Post breakfast, we visited several temples in Bhubaneswar, starting with the Kedar Gowri Temple, followed by the Mukteshwara Siddheswara Temple, which dates back to 950-975 CE. We then visited the Lingaraj Temple, one of Bhubaneswar’s oldest and most prominent landmarks. Munna introduced me to Dahivada Dumaloo, a delicious local dish of urad dal fritters soaked in curd with potato curry.

Next, we explored Dhauli Giri Hills, known for the Peace Pagoda or Dhauli Shanti Stupa, the Ashoka Pillar, and the Edicts of Ashoka. The intricate Patachitra paintings were fascinating. We then visited the State Museum to learn more about Odisha’s history. After a lunch at Dalma restaurant, we headed to the ancient remains of Udaygiri and Khandagiri caves, which offered a glimpse into the region’s archaeological and historical significance. Despite the crowds due to a local festival, the experience was rewarding.

Our final stop was the Shree Ram Mandir, where we offered prayers. We visited Ekamra Haat for shopping but found few stalls, so we returned to the hotel for a well-deserved rest.

Day 8: It was time to say goodbye to Bhubaneswar. I returned to Bangalore, feeling blessed and proud to have explored another Indian city and its rich heritage.

August 28, 2023

Lap of Luxury at Trivik, Chikkamagaluru, Karnataka

Filed under: India — jani @ 11:23 am

About: Chikmagalur, also known as Chikkamagaluru, is a picturesque hill station situated in the state of Karnataka, India. Positioned to the north is Baba Budangiri, a mountain range within the Western Ghats, characterized by three significant caves that hold religious significance. These caves are revered by locals and visitors alike. The region offers trails that wind through lush forests and grasslands, leading to the pinnacle of Mullayanagiri Peak, the highest point in Karnataka.

The landscape also features the enchanting Hebbe Falls, set amidst coffee plantations that add to the natural beauty of the area. Notably, Chikmagalur is historically linked to the cultivation of coffee, marking the spot where coffee was first grown in India. The hills of Chikmagalur form a part of the Western Ghats, serving as the origin for the Tunga and Bhadra rivers.

One of the prominent attractions in the region is Mullayanagiri, a towering peak that offers stunning panoramic views of the surroundings. Moreover, Chikmagalur is also renowned for the Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary, a forested area in the northwest, which provides a habitat for diverse wildlife including elephants, tigers, and leopards.

An essential cultural and spiritual landmark in the area is the Sringeri Mutt, a revered monastery that houses the Dakshina Peeta, a seat of spiritual authority established by the great philosopher and theologian Adi Shankaracharya.

Chikmagalur’s serene landscapes, spiritual significance, and natural wonders make it a sought-after destination for those seeking tranquility, adventure, and a connection with nature.

Day 1: Having nurtured a longstanding desire to explore the charms of Chikkamagaluru, the opportunity to bask in the lap of luxury at Trivik was a dream come true. The invitation from our friends to join them on this venture was met with immense enthusiasm. Sur needed to stop his whining about not being able to join me for trips due to recent work commitments, eagerly embraced the idea, as it allowed him to temporarily escape his busy routine and join me on this adventure.

As our journey began in the morning, there was a noticeable departure from the norm—our friends wanted to take the wheel, so Sur has to sit in the backseat which was a bit odd for him. Our friends arrived to pick us up, and with excitement in the air, we embarked on our much-anticipated journey. A pit stop for a local breakfast and a satisfying cup of filter coffee provided the perfect fuel for our travels.

Fortune smiled upon us with clear skies, sparing us from any rain that might have made the journey more challenging due to muddy roads. During the ascent, we couldn’t resist pausing at a breathtaking vantage point, capturing the stunning scenery in photographs. Our destination, Trivik, greeted us with warm hospitality, adorning us with garlands of fragrant mogra flowers. A rejuvenating herbal concoction, sweetened with local honey, awaited us—a gesture that immediately made us feel at home.

With appetites ready to be sated, we decided to indulge in a sumptuous lunch. Our taste buds were treated to a delightful culinary experience before we retreated to our rooms, each of us seeking some well-deserved rest after navigating the roads for the better part of seven to eight hours.

The luxurious accommodations provided a tranquil haven for us to rest and recuperate. As I delved back into my work, the call of the infinity view beckoned me. Although the vista was truly breathtaking, the chilly weather prompted a return indoors after a brief moment of admiration. Our rooms soon became the sanctuary where we ordered tea and snacks, taking solace in the comfort they offered as we slowly surrendered to much-needed slumber.

Day 2: Following a leisurely breakfast, we set out for a coffee plantation walk, excited to explore the lush surroundings. However, our plans took a slight detour as we learned that the previous night’s rain had prompted the emergence of leeches within the plantation. Undeterred, we decided to stick to the safe pathway, which still offered plenty of beauty to behold. A return to the infinity view allowed us to relish the flavors of a rich coffee as we absorbed the stunning vistas before heading back.

Lunch proved to be another gastronomic delight, treating our taste buds to a delectable spread. The afternoon beckoned us to embark on a nature walk, and we seized the opportunity to immerse ourselves in the natural wonders of the area. The weather held up, granting us respite from the rain that had earlier dampened our plans. Our journey took us through the serene forest, where a treasure trove of sights awaited us.

As we strolled along the path, we marveled at the diversity of life around us. The forest floor was adorned with mushrooms of various shapes and sizes, while rare orchids and vibrant butterflies painted a picture of enchantment. Mischievous monkeys swung through the trees, adding a touch of liveliness to the scene. Our eyes remained fixed on the canopy above, occasionally catching glimpses of colorful birds flitting among the branches.

In light of the recent rain, we were cautioned about leeches and advised to avoid damp areas near the edge. Despite these challenges, the beauty of the forest captivated us. During our walk, we encountered a young boy from the group, who eagerly joined us, exuding curiosity and enthusiasm. His presence added an extra layer of joy to the experience as we navigated the natural wonderland together.

Our interactions with the young companion extended beyond sharing the trail. As we encountered different plant species, we took the opportunity to teach him about the flora and fauna that surrounded us. The moment he discovered a touch-me-not plant, his excitement was palpable. We watched as he carefully touched the leaves, giggling as they folded in response to his touch.

With a heartwarming camaraderie, we continued our walk, capturing memories through photographs and relishing every moment of this shared adventure. Eventually, we made our way back to our accommodations, where we ordered a satisfying meal to enjoy in the comfort of our rooms. The day had been a perfect blend of exploration, learning, and connection with nature, leading us to retire for the night with a sense of contentment and gratitude.

Day 3: Another delightful morning greeted us, accompanied by a sumptuous breakfast that energized us for yet another nature walk. This time, we were joined by the father of the young boy who had shared our adventure the previous day. The weather had shifted slightly, rendering the surroundings a touch drier. As a result, we were able to explore additional viewpoints, albeit at the cost of encountering a few more leeches. While some of us fell victim to these persistent creatures, quick action ensured that no one suffered any serious harm. A trusty alcohol spray came to the rescue, earning me the endearing nickname of “Leech Killing Aunty” from the young boy. His playful humor added a lighthearted touch to our interactions, creating a wonderful bond that extended to his family.

Our group dynamics continued to expand as one of our friends, who happened to be petite, connected particularly well with the young boy. Mistaking her for someone his age, they formed a charming duo that brightened our journey. In the process, we also had the privilege of interacting with his parents and grandparents, forging new friendships along the way.

Lunchtime rolled around, and we were treated to a picturesque view that accompanied our meal. A leisurely stroll around the swimming pool and garden allowed us to relish the tranquil ambiance. Our plans for relaxation continued with a spa session, a rejuvenating experience that left us feeling refreshed and invigorated.

As the day unfolded, we found ourselves gravitating towards the coffee shop near the infinity view. There, we were welcomed by a game of tambola, adding an element of entertainment to our evening. The atmosphere was made even more festive by a pair of jubilant kids who were treated to delectable cakes. We too indulged in the sweet offerings of the café, savoring the flavors as we engaged in lively conversation and laughter.

With the day winding down, we retreated to our accommodations, basking in the contentment that comes from a day well spent. The memories we had forged, the connections we had made, and the moments of pure enjoyment were all cherished as we settled in for a restful night.

Day 4: The last day brought a mix of responsibilities and farewells. I had an early online class scheduled by IIM, which was unmissable. To accommodate this, Sur and I opted for a quick breakfast, missing the chance to share our final morning meal together before parting ways. The young boy’s family, whom we had become quite close to, insisted on joining us for breakfast, so our other friends kept them company while Sur and I hurried through our meal. Once breakfast was over, and a short rest for Sur, I settled down for my online class.

As the class concluded, I packed my bags and also took the opportunity to purchase a few locally made items from the village, supporting the skilled work of the local women. With everything in order, we embarked on our journey back. The weather was drizzly, and we hoped the rain wouldn’t intensify until we reached flat terrain. Gradually, the rain began to pick up its pace. At a junction, we encountered police officers who provided us with the correct directions, aiding us as our GPS had stopped working. Our luck seemed to turn when we stumbled upon fresh local corn being roasted over a stove. We relished this treat as we continued on our way, also picking up some Pomelo (bablimas) fruits, reminiscent of grapefruit.

With spirits lifted, we started our drive back. The journey was pleasant, and as night began to fall, we reached our home. Our hearts were brimming with beautiful memories, a testament to the wonderful time we had spent together.

I want to extend a heartfelt thank you to the Trivik team for their exceptional hospitality and for creating such a remarkable and memorable experience.

December 17, 2022

Nagaland – The Land of Festivals

Filed under: India — jani @ 4:19 pm

It was a last minute booking to Nagaland as Santosh from Exotic Expeditions had cancelled the Bali trip which we had planned earlier. We blindly trust Santosh, for his experiential trips so we went ahead and booked it. Along with Sur and myself, we had Punita from our residential community and my friend Shankar who had joined this trip as well.

About Nagaland: It is a landlocked state in the north-eastern region of India. It is bordered by the Indian states of Arunachal Pradesh to the north, Assam to the west, Manipur to the south and the Sagaing Region of Myanmar to the east. Its capital city is Kohima and its largest city is Dimapur. It is home to a rich variety of natural, cultural and environmental resources. Nagaland is a mountainous state. The high-profile Dzüko Valley is located at Viswema, in the southern region of the state. The state has significant resources of natural minerals, petroleum, and hydropower with agriculture as the state’s most important economic activity, accounting for over 70% of its economy. Other significant activities include forestry, tourism, insurance, real estate, horticulture and miscellaneous cottage industries. The state has experienced insurgency and inter-ethnic conflict since the 1950s, limiting its economic development.

Inner Line Permit (ILP): Before travelling to Nagaland, it’s mandatory that you apply for ILP and get the approval. It takes 3-4 days for approval, hence please plan your travel accordingly. This applies to Indian Citizens too who are traveling from other states.

Step 1: Fill up the application form in the following link (https://ilp.nagaland.gov.in/), upload the relevant documents and submit. You will receive an SMS with the reference number.

Step 2: Once your application is approved, you will get a SMS saying that your application is approved and you need to make payment in order to download the approved ILP

Step 3: Make the payment of Rs. 50 and then the ILP is ready for download.

Even though no one has checked for this document when we travelled, its advised to get the ILP before your travel to Nagaland in order to adhere to the local entry regulations.

Day 1: We had a morning flight to catch, so Sur, Punita and myself started on time to go to the airport. Since we slept hardly the previous night, we were sleepy. We reached the airport, finished the formalities, had a little break at the lounge and then started our flight to Delhi. We met Veena and Uma as we waited to board for our connecting flight. Even though Jaclyn was there, we couldn’t meet her so finally after a short haul we boarded the flight to Dibrugarh, Assam. We reached in the afternoon and met Santosh and all of us went to Bhaskar Homestay where we were staying for the night before we proceeded to Nagaland. Finally I met Shankar, it was a happy reunion to meet him after a long time. Then we met other group members Indu, Divya and Sapna. Venkat was still on his way and we finally met him in the evening after he reached. As soon as we reached, the ladies in the group except me went for a walk. I was too sleepy to step out and while they had gone for a walk, Sur and myself sat with Santosh and Shankar and were catching up on the old times. Then we went to a bakery next door Tasty Treat and went for tea and snacks. The Samosas were good, however paneer puff was too dry and the coffee was not great either. However, the samosas made the day and then we walked around close by and packed some duck meat, along with chicken and it was good. We also got few of our favourite Bhutanese Peach Wine (Zumzin) as Nagaland is a dry state, so we don’t get alcohol there and this is our go to wine when we come to North East as we get this wine only here. We came back to the homestay and it was time to surprise the birthday boy. I had already asked Shankar to get a birthday cake to surprise Sur as it was his birthday. He had arranged a nice mango flavoured cake from Tasty Treat bakery. Sur had cut the cake and we all enjoyed it. Then we got our dinner of thali (set meal) of veg and non-veg which had rice, dal and vegetables and Non-veg folks had chicken in addition. We enjoyed and crashed for the night.

Day 2: We woke up after a good breakfast and started towards Longwa in Mon District, Nagaland. Since it was Sunday, almost everything was shut in Nagaland, so we stopped to get some samosas packed before we entered Nagaland for the lunch. Even though it was a small bakery and looked shady, the samosas were one of the best that we ever tasted. It was almost 8-9 hours of drive with loads of dust and bad roads. We stopped for a quick break for tea in Sonari and we also had to literally use the open face for the bio break as there were no public toilets around. Since it was Sunday, hardly anyone was there outside and it looked more of a deserted road. Finally we reached Longsha Home Stay in Longwa (Lungwa) which mostly has Konyak tribes who are the last head-hunters of the warrior clan. These tribes were known for headhunting and now they are doing farming. Head hunting was their pride, bringing heads of enemies and doing a victory dance in front of the chopped head was something special for them. The warrior wears a chain with brass skulls, depending on how many heads he had chopped, that many brass skulls gets added to his neck piece. Also post victory, they get face tattooed, which is another identification for the warrier who had hunted heads successfully earlier. The ladies in the house do farming and also make colourful accessories for the neck, ear etc with the beads now bought from Myanmar. Usually The homestays are adorned with human skulls but now it’s all of various animals, mostly Mithun (semi domesticated gaur) as all the human skulls were taken away by the government.

Pohi was our hostess and she had her entire family to support us during our stay there. She also became our translator to communicate with other people from her tribes. The stay was very basic but rich with the warmth of the family. The people were so simple and good and we ended up spending more time warming ourselves in their house kitchen.

The food was not as per our palette, they had rice which is their staple diet and boiled dal, hardly they used any masalas. Then they had squash (chow chow) and greens (radish leaves) which was always served just boiled. So it was pretty bland food and more of a healthier option. They do have Naga chilli which is extremely spicy so we had to be little careful on that to eat it raw with the food. Nagas delicacy used to be Dog meat but we didn’t see anywhere during the trip, later I heard from Santosh, that they do have but they don’t publicize due to tourists. We were mostly served smoked pork and chicken, the meat served was under cooked and it didn’t have any masalas to enhance the flavour.  It was just sautéed in the oil for some time, then added water and boiled for sometime. So it was a big no no for me and also hardly had any flavours, to which we are used to. I didn’t see any single gas connection in this area, they were still using the old stoves and were doing all the cooking by burning wood. They have a stand tied above the stove, so the meat and others are left there to get it smoked. It’s still the same old method they are following even till today, nothing has affected them. They also had pumpkin which they made well, then there was Chicken pickle, which was overpowered by Ginger and then sometimes the consolation was the naga chilli chutney which was the best.

I also heard they never used to have hospitals there, as they never fell sick. As the sun was setting by 5 PM it was little difficult to track the timing and also it was very very cold. So we had our dinner early, bought some colourful accessories which the local ladies were making by hand which was for sale and then we crashed for the night.

Be prepared to carry your own toiletries and towels as here they don’t provide and also be prepared to enjoy the cold water bath here. Also the drinking water tastes like smoky water.

Day 3: Woke up after much needed rest and followed by cold bath and then headed for the breakfast. We had bread omelette and Poori, then we headed for our exploration. We did a mini trek to go to the view point where you could see Myanmar. The border of Myanmar also has Konyak tribes and they speak the same language. There is a forest which runs between the borders where Mithuns are usually found. The view point of Myanmar was stunning and we could see few huts, each one separated by large pieces of land. But it was barren as I heard, hardly anything grows in this land. The Myanmar border goes right in the middle of the view point and we took some pictures near that border stone. When we came down we saw men were replacing the roof of the hut with the new ones, they use dried areca nut leaves and it was made without a single nail. Commendable..

Then we headed to the house of Chief of Ang tribe, Shri Tonyei Phawang and he was sitting near the stove warming himself. The Myanmar boarder literally runs in the middle of his house, half of it is in Myanmar and other half it is in India. Literally, The king sleeps in India and eats in Myanmar. Their house was adorned with lot more animal heads, wooden king bed and lot more things beautifully decorating the house. There was also a wooden statue of two head-hunters where one is about to cut the other’s head. We went and took the pictures with him and then we left the place. They’re the only Indian tribe to have legal dual citizenship of both India and Myanmar and a lot of them even vote in both elections.

Then we headed to the Gun making place. Even though in India Gun license is restricted, they are allowed to have and there was a man who was making it completely by hand. We sat with him for some time and Sur also tried a bit shooting.

Then we proceeded to meet one of the head hunters who had chopped off five heads, he also did the victory dance which is usually done post chopping off enemy heads. We had goosebumps hearing such stories and imagining it. Then we gave him some tips and left, he was very pleased.

Then we headed back to the homestay and while I was too tired and went to sleep, Sur and others walked around and enjoyed the scenary. There was a helipad closeby and beautiful flowers all around and then there was radish field where they plucked one for tasting and then the group went to play carroms. Then I joined them late for dinner. While others went to crash for the night, Shankar wanted to entertain the host and family with his dance as a gratitude. Santosh joined with him and I was the spectator cheering all of them. Shankar made sure to take everyone to join him in dance and it was so good to see them laugh after their tiring day post taking care of a big group of twelve of us. Then we crashed for the night.

Day 4: We woke up to a beautiful day and it was time to bid good bye to such an amazing family. We had a quick breakfast, took photos with the family and set off to the next destination of Mokokchung. We heard from another group that the roads are bad and it will take longer than usual, we hurried to make sure we reach Mokokchung before it gets dark. The roads were one of the worst and network was completely off. The roads were isolated and there were loads of dust and few feets of mud slush. Thank God it was not raining otherwise you couldn’t go in a car as it will get stuck. There is a little seepage of water from the hills, so even though it was not raining, there was mud slush but manageable since it was not raining. Still we got a flat tyre as the potholes were really deep and bad. Since we were in two cars, both the drivers helped each other to change it and then we moved on. The funny thing was in these roads suddenly you see a patch of thar road and before we start being hopeful, the road suddenly disappears as though someone carried away the entire road. It was little stressful to travel on this road until you reach safe. North East is extremely safe for people. It was more of car reaching safely and before it gets dark because its very difficult to get any help in these routes as its deserted and isolated. Luckily we were relieved once we reached Changtongyeah. It was a small town, girls and boys were playing football in the ground, so we took a short break to buy some snacks before we proceeded to our destination.

Finally we reached Marvel Guest House in Mokokchung. This town is the cultural nerve centre of the Ao tribes and is economically and politically the most important urban centre in northern Nagaland and that was our stop for the night. After reaching the hotel, seeing the clean sheets and proper toilets and geyser we felt a little relieved and girls were only discussing about washing the hairs first as we were not sure about the similar facilities in the next places. So all of us freshened up and then ordered dinners individually. We also enjoyed their lemon tea which was good. As next day we were planning to leave early, Santosh, Shankar and myself joined to help him to pick up the breakfast items to pack as Sur was lazy to join us. The shops were closing in early, it was already dark even though it was only 6 PM, so we went a little further, picked up bread, butter and jam, fruits etc. We also found some street vendors selling pork skewers with fat and meat separately, they also had chicken and pork sausage. Except the port sausage which got over fried so it became rubbery, the pork and chicken was really good and edible to eat. So we came back to the Guest House, enjoyed our dinner and then all of us crashed early as we had an early start.

Day 5: We woke up early and started off to Longkhun Village. This village is a vanguard village of the Ao tribes in the days of headhunting, it is strategically situated and commands a view of the surrounding hills and valleys. There was amazing view point and we sat there for our breakfast which we carried with us and then we walked around the village. The village has beautiful flowers all around, big varieties of roses, Dark red poinsettias and chrysanthemums. Then we headed to the orchid park in the village, however it was not a season for the bloom So we returned back. On our way back, we asked one of the ladies to use the rest room in their house, since you hardly find public toilets here. She obliged and we all went for our bio breaks. It was an old style toilet where there was no commode it was a cemented floor with a hole for the water to go and then we handed over some cash as a gratitude for the lady for her help. She gave us a big smile in response and we thanked her and left for Kigwema.

On the way we stopped at Wokha, had lunch at Hotel Lotha Dish, grabbed some snacks and reached Hills Homestay in Kigwema. Kigwema is one of the oldest villages amongst the Angami Naga villages. Several Angami, Chakhesang and Sümi Naga villages lay claim to the fact that their villages were established by men from Kigwema. During World War II, Japanese troops arrived in Kigwema on 4 April 1944, at 4:00 PM. The Japanese commander, General Kōtoku Satō, was stationed in Kigwema during the Battle of Kohima. This is also closer to the hornbill festival venue. So we got into the homestay but we did have a challenge on rooms as they only had 3 rooms due to festival. Earlier Santosh and Venkat were planning to sleep out on tent. It was so cold to allow them to sleep out. So after Divya and Sapna agreed, Sur joined the three of us in our room, remaining five girls in another, so the third room Santosh, Venkat and Shankar could be accommodated.

The family were so hospitable and the whole family, any time of the day, were ready to serve with a big smile. Most of the time they had to make teas multiple times as it was too cold, as constantly we wanted something hot to beat this cold. We had our dinner including the chicken which was well done and we finally enjoyed a good hot meal and it tasted good too. Then we sat out for sometime for a drink and then the group lead by Shankar were dancing. Uma was adjusted as the best dancer of the group and as usual I was the spectator to cheer them on. Then we all crashed for the night.

Day 6: We had a quick breakfast of Maggi and bread omelette and then walked to the Kisama Heritage Village, It serves as the main venue for the Hornbill Festival of Nagaland. This Heritage Complex consists of a cluster of sixteen houses of each tribe created in the indigenous typical architectural designs. It also houses a World War II Museum, Bamboo Heritage Hall, Bamboo Pavilion and stadium for live shows. It was half an hour walking distance, we got our entry bands and then reached the venue to enjoy the cultural show. The Hornbill Festival is an annual festival celebrated from 1 to 10 of December. The festival represents all ethnic groups of Nagaland for which it is also called the Festival of Festivals

The show started with a pestle dance (bamboo dance) performed by Kuki cultural troupe. It had a tale of an orphan who fell in love with the chief’s daughter, however father wanted to break his ankles as he didn’t want his daughter to be married to an orphan. He planned this bamboo game with his staff, where he instructed his staff to break his ankles when he plays this game as any wrong jump/move can break his legs. When his friends found about this evil plan of the chief, they all came to help their friend by shouting jump at the right time and helped him escape unhurt.

Then we had the Rücechele (demonstration) of ploughing the field by both men and women folks by Chakhesang Cultural troupe, then it was followed by frog jump and they asked volunteers to try as well. It was quite spectacular, colorful and fun. Then there was Bai Jaba (War dance) by Kachari cultural troupe. It was followed by Tsethomari (folk dance) it was a thanksgiving dance for all the blessings that they received throughout the year. Then there was Junglangkak games by Ao cultural troupe which depicted the varios games that men play to keep themselves ready for the war.

Then it was break for the lunch. The vegetarians went to the veg food trail, they had Chinese food options. Santosh, Shankar, Jaclyn and myself went to the different tribe huts and went to try different foods. We tasted silk worm in Garo Stall, along with the rice beer which was distilled. The silk worm was tasty but it was cold, am sure it would have tasted better if it was hot. It was dried first and then would have sauteed, that’s how it tasted and looked.

Then we moved to Satakhami for smoked pork, which was ok, then we headed to another hut for smoked fish and chicken and rice beer which was non-distilled. Rice beer was ok, but most of us didn’t enjoy any other items in this.  we had a nice herbal tea and lemon tea. That made our day as it was good. Then it was time to head back to the afternoon show.

It started with Awura Kwhi (folk song) by Pochury Cultural troupe which is a victory dance only the warrior who hunted heads are eligible to do this dance, then there was another folk song by Angami cultural troupe from Sakabama village which was all about men and women preparing the land for farming. Then there was Ho-E-Eh Zou (Folk song by Khiamniungan cultural troupe, that was another thanksgiving dance. Then there was a traditional game of Ading Oka by Garo cultural troupe which 2 boys hold the bamboo baton, sit opposite to each other and tried to see who is able to take the baton from the other. It was to test the strength. Then we had lover’s dance Zinger Tsungsang by Ao tribe from Dimapur. It was a dance to get to know each one’s partner and learn to communicate. Then there was Aki Kiti which is a semi-contact combat sport involving kicking and blocking with soles. It is a traditional sport originating from the Sümi naga tribe. Then there was Akhakhi Kemvu Khwie (cotton spinning) by Rengma women from Kohima. The women folk used to make different shawls to give to her loved one, while men gave moral support by encouraging them while enjoying their rice beer. The beautiful cultural show came to end for that day and we explored the stalls near by specially wanted to pick up the Naga shawls. Then we headed to the café and enjoyed the soup, noodles and then went back to the venue for the music festival in the evening.

Music festival started by Swarathma, which is a Bangalore-based Indian Folk/fusion band. And The band’s sound draws from Indian Folk and Classical Music, blending it with Western sounds like Blues Rock and Reggaefirst. Jishnu Dasgupta from the band gave an introduction and then the show started, the theme was on Indian tribal songs. First, they had a song from Ho tribe of Jharkhand. They sang the song of Sisir Dah (Dew Drop), then it was followed by Rabha tribe from Asaam, who sang the Chingi Hasong (on preserving rabha way of life), Then it was time for Kandha Piju from Orissa singing on Titli Piju (the cyclone that ravaged them). It was heartbreaking even to listen. Then there was a festive song of Bwisagu by Bodo tribe from Assam. Then there was a song from Jamatiya tribe from Tripura on Bisi Kwtal which is a new year celebration song, one which was peppy and warmed us for the cold night. Then all the artists came together to sing featuring Rhythms of earth. First of all hats off to these folks, who is trying to keep these tribal songs alive. Vasu Dixit from Swarathma, sang few amazing numbers. Then there was another team came which was boring, So that sent us packing as the weather was not helping either. We rushed back to the homestay, had our dinner and crashed for the night.

Day 7: We woke up, had our breakfast and headed to Khonoma, which is an Angami Naga village closer to the state capital, Kohima. It is the first green village in India. We went to the small fort there and as we went inside the village, we saw women weaving the local naga shawls and we bought few, then enjoyed the juicy cut pine apples from the small shops. As we roamed in the village, on the sides of the road, there was money bag and fruits with the cost and there was no person sitting there. All that you have to do is that, if you are taking the fruits put the right change in the money bag. A big love and respect to this village, I can’t imagine if this will succeed in our towns/cities. Huge and huge respect. Then we used one of the rest rooms of a local and then we headed back to the hornbill festival venue.

While Indu, Sur and myself explored the war museum, horticultural stalls, florals arrangements, paintings, others were enjoying the hornbill show. Once we were done, all of us then gathered and headed back to the homestay. On the way we saw the stalls of wild cat and wild birds meat. Since we couldn’t stand out more on cold, we didn’t try it but headed back to the homestay. We  had our dinner and I had logged in to do my office work. Since the network was too slow I had to wait longer. While I was waiting for the emails to be sent, Shankar gave me company and we were chatting. The host were insisting me to have some tea but I was feeling bad to ask anything at the late hours so I declined and asked them to go to sleep as it was too late. It was way past midnight and they saw that I was still working, they came with some hot beverage (looked like Barley Congee water), we couldn’t refuse as they had already made. So Shankar and myself enjoyed the drink, thanked them, by then my emails were sent and it was time to crash for the night.

Day 8: Woke up to the beautiful and cold day, had a teary farewell from the host family members. This was one of the best stays and then we headed to Kohima. First we headed to the war memorial. This is a memorial dedicated to soldiers of the 2nd British Division of the Allied Forces who died in the Second World War at Kohima, in April 1944. The soldiers died on the battleground of Garrison Hill in the tennis court area of the Deputy Commissioner’s residence. According to the Commonwealth War Graves Commission, which maintains this cemetery among many others in the world, there are 1,420 Commonwealth burials of the Second World War at this cemetery, and a memorial to an additional 917 Hindu and Sikh soldiers who were cremated in accordance with their faith.

Then we headed to the Cathedral Church of Kohima, the church is noted for its architecture which incorporates many elements of traditional Naga houses, including its facade which resembles that of a Naga house. Unfortunately it was under major renovation. We had an amazing view of the city though and we headed to Kohima State Museum, this was one of the best things that I cherished. It had all the information about various tribes of Naga, their traditional games, the way each tribe constructs the huts, their clothing, accessories, etc. Each tribe had its own uniqueness. It was their past history which needed to be remembered, cherished and not forgotten. This was an eyeopener, I wish if every state had the similar one, depicting their past history and pride of their ancestors. I am sure each of our states in India has a beautiful past to cherish.

Then we headed to Dimapur, On the way we stopped at Manipuri Rice hotel. It was the worst experience for us. They had Axone (fermented beans) dishes which we couldn’t even touch for the strong smell which we are not used to. Some of the chicken curries came with the actual chicken legs with the skin, looking at that my appetite went down. I just had little rice and little dal and I couldn’t touch any of the other items for their weird taste and smell. Some of them got the cold poori which was given in newspaper as they ran out of plate. Shankar had chicken curry along with the poori, since he didn’t have plate, somehow managed to try to eat the chicken in the newspaper and he gave up as the meat was hard. Some fell sick after having this food and we were rushing to reach our last destination, Dimapur. Finally we reached Hotel Acacia, Dimapur for the last night of the journey. We bid good bye to both the drivers for all their support. By now with the roads being bad, I had hurt my neck and shoulder, few of us had cough and cold. So we just checkedin and I took a painkiller, had a nice soup and crashed. While others went to explore the night bazaar, even though some of them felt uncomfortable, Santosh enjoyed the grasshopppers etc, which I missed.

Day 9: Woke up a little early so that we could settle the accounts, then catch up with everyone before we see each others off. So went for an early breakfast and caught up with the group for some time. We settled our accounts and we all left for the airport.

We had one of the best experiences in Dimapur airport and Indigo staffs were extremely helpful. Even other staffs like security were supportive and helpful. Finally we boarded our flight back to Delhi and landed at T3. Since we had to reach T2 for the flight to Bangalore we walked towards T2 and then we boarded. Then we landed in Bangalore, got our bags and reached home after having a really one of the best experiential tours.

One beautiful, memorable, experiential trip came to end but it was one of the best and amazing trips and once again thanks to Santosh for organizing and the entire group for making the trip more memorable.

Until the next trip, signing off………………

The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page

November 8, 2022

Agra – The Capital of Mughal Empire

Filed under: India — jani @ 8:17 pm

About Agra: It is a city on the banks of the Yamuna river in the Indian state of Uttar Pradesh. Agra’s golden age of the city began with the Mughals and it was the capital of the Mughal Empire under Mughal emperors Babur, Humayun, Akbar, Jahangir and Shah Jahan. Under Mughal rule, Agra became a centre for learning, arts, commerce, and religion, and saw the construction of the Agra Fort, Sikandra and Agra’s most prized monument, the Taj Mahal, built by Shah Jahan as a mausoleum for his favourite empress. After Independence, Agra has developed into an industrial town, with a booming tourism industry, along with footwear, leather and other manufacturing. The Taj Mahal and the Agra Fort are UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Day 1: It had been my wish to visit Taj Mahal for a very long time, however this had been kept delaying. Finally during the Diwali holidays, Sur and myself decided to visit Agra as we were there in Noida for the holidays. We were informed that 2 days are more than sufficient to visit Agra and Friday is not recommended as most of the monuments are closed on that day. So we decided to travel on a weekend.

We started at 6 AM and within 3 hours we were in Agra. It was a pleasant drive and then we decided to go to Taj Mahal first. We got introduced to the guide Mr. Aman Jain through one of the Auto Rickshaw person and from then onwards the guide was there for both the days to guide us through the entire trip. We purchased the entry ticket and then the shoe covers which is needed to wear before entering the mausoleum. In the morning as we entered the campus of Taj Mahal, it was a beauty to behold, and it was all the more worth it. The Taj Mahal is an ivory-white marble mausoleum. It was commissioned in 1632 by the Mughal emperor, Shah Jahan (reigned from 1628 to 1658), to house the tomb of his favourite wife, Mumtaz Mahal, who died on 17 June that year, while giving birth to their 14th child, Gauhara Begum. It also houses the tomb of Shah Jahan himself. The Taj Mahal was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983 for being “the jewel of Muslim art in India and one of the universally admired masterpieces of the world’s heritage”. It is regarded by many as the best example of Mughal architecture and a symbol of India’s rich history. In 2007, it was declared a winner of the New 7 Wonders of the World (2000–2007) initiative.

The Taj Mahal was constructed using materials from all over India and Asia. It is believed over 1,000 elephants were used to transport building materials. It took the efforts of 22,000 labourers, painters, embroidery artists and stonecutters to shape the Taj Mahal. The translucent white marble was brought from Makrana, Rajasthan, the Jasper from Punjab, Jade and crystal from China. The turquoise was from Tibet and the Lapis lazuli from Afghanistan, while the sapphire came from Sri Lanka and the Carnelian from Arabia. In all, twenty-eight types of precious and semi-precious stones were inlaid into the white marble.

Along with being a renowned symbol of love, the Taj Mahal is also a symbol of Shah Jahan’s wealth and power, and the fact that the empire had prospered under his rule. The building appears to slightly change color depending on the time of day and the weather.

Soon after the Taj Mahal’s completion, Shah Jahan was deposed by his son Aurangzeb and put under house arrest at nearby Agra Fort. Upon Shah Jahan’s death, Aurangzeb buried him in the mausoleum next to his wife. It has been pointed out, that the minarets are designed to tilt slightly outwards to prevent them from crashing on top of the tomb in the event of an earthquake.

Then we strolled down in the garden and then headed for a little shopping near Tajganj where we picked up few souvenirs made from the same kind of marble used in Taj Mahal. Since the renovation keeps happening, the smaller marble pieces which are discarded have been used to make souvenirs. Also we visited precious stones stores where you can purchase star sapphire, black star stone etc and then we headed to UP handicrafts art and handloom centre where we found sarees made from Pineapple, banana and bamboo fibre. The prisoners make this and then its sold in these stores. We also found shoes and belts and specially belt made in Deer leather. We were curious as how did they procure deer skin when India has banned deer hunting. Then we were informed that the skin is taken post the natural death of the deer as there are quite a few spotted deers roaming near these monuments.

Then it was time to try the Agra famous Petha (pronounced as Petta) which is a translucent sweetmeat made with cubes or cylinders of ash gourd (white pumpkin), first soaked in slaked lime (chuna) and then slow cooked in Sugar and Kewra water (Distilled from Pandanus flowers) is added later for flavour. We were informed this particular shop uses honey instead of sugar and they also had interesting flavours like Coconut, Chocolate, Butter scotch, Paan and fruit based. We picked up few and left for lunch.

We were recommended to go to Pinch of Salt restaurant, where Sur tried the Paneer and mixed vegetables and I tried the lamb curry and the butter naan. We enjoyed the food and then we headed to the next visit of Agra Fort

Agra fort is a historical fort in the city of Agra and also known as red fort. It was built during 1565-1573 for Mughal Emperor Akbar. It was the main residence of the rulers of Sikarwar clan of Rajputs until Mughals occupied it and then the Mughal Dynasty until 1638, when the capital was shifted from Agra to Delhi. It is about 2.5 km northwest of its more famous sister monument, the Taj Mahal. The fort can be more accurately described as the walled city.

Realising the importance of its central situation, Akbar made it his capital and arrived in Agra in 1558. His historian, Abul Fazl, recorded that this was a brick fort known as ‘Badalgarh’. It was in a ruined condition and Akbar had it rebuilt with red sandstone from Barauli area Dhaulpur district, in Rajasthan. Architects laid the foundation and it was built with bricks in the inner core with sandstone on external surfaces. Some 4,000 builders worked on it daily for eight years, completing it in 1573.

It was only during the reign of Akbar’s grandson, Shah Jahan, that the site took on its current state. The fort was the site of a battle during the Indian rebellion of 1857, which caused the end of the British East India Company’s rule in India, and led to a century of direct rule of India by Britain.

Four gates were provided on its four sides, one Khizri gate opening on to the river. Two of the fort’s gates are notable: the “Delhi Gate” and the “Lahore Gate.” The Lahore Gate is also popularly also known as the “Amar Singh Gate,” for Amar Singh Rathore. Indian military (the Parachute Brigade in particular) is still using the northern portion of the Agra Fort, hence the Delhi Gate cannot be used by the public. Tourists enter via the Amar Singh Gate.

Then we headed to Akbar’s Tomb. It is the tomb of the Mughal emperor Akbar. It was built in 1605–1613 by his son Jahangir and is situated on 119 acres of grounds in Sikandra, Agra, Uttar Pradesh, India. Akbar’s cenotaph inside the mausoleum, the real grave as per traditions lies below it.

In the garden there were quite a few very healthy monkeys, peacocks and deers and we enjoyed the greenery around.

Then we headed to Ramada Plaza by Wyndham Agra where we had booked for the night. This is a budget hotel and it was good. We checked in and crashed for the night as I was too tired.

Day 2: We woke up with much needed rest and then we headed for breakfast. It had limited options. We had a toast and omelette and headed for checkout. Then we met our guide and we headed to Fatehpur Sikhri to see the Tomb of Salim Chishti. This is atleast 1.5 hour drive from where we were. The Tomb of Salim Chishti is famed as one of the finest examples of Mughal architecture in India, built during the years 1580 and 1581, along with the imperial complex at Fatehpur Sikri near Zenana Rauza and facing south towards Buland Darwaza, within the quadrangle of the Jama Masjid which measures 350 ft. by 440 ft., It enshrines the burial place of the Sufi saint, Salim Chisti (1478 – 1572), a descendant of Khwaja Moinuddin Chishti of Ajmer, and who lived in a cavern on the ridge at Sikri. The mausoleum, constructed by Akbar as a mark of his respect for the Sufi saint, who foretold the birth of Akbar’s son, who was named as Prince Salim after the Sufi Saint and later Jahangir succeeded Akbar to the throne of the Mughal Empire,

As you enter inside, there are mini buses to take you to the top where the tomb is. When you enter the building, make sure you wear clothes which are below the knees. Also you are not allowed to wear the footwear inside the campus. This tomb is believed that if you wish anything and pray to the saint, then the wishes are granted. The descendants of the saint still live there and also they run a school for the local children. We said a prayer for everyone and left from there.

This place being outside the city limits, we were also informed not to go alone or venture alone without the local guide. There was a case of one of the foreign tourists mishandled by the locals and the couple were in ICU for a week or two. Also there are lot of children who come and ask for money and we were asked to just ignore them to avoid any problems with the locals. Since we had the guide throughout, he made sure to arrange local guides in each monuments and they also made sure to purchase the tickets and be ready so it saved our time as we missed the queue as well.

On the way we went to Gopal Das Petha Shop in MG Road for the plain Pethas which are very famous. Then we headed to Taste of India for lunch, it was average and then we headed back to Noida with the great memories.

Stay Safe.

I haven’t been everywhere but it’s on my list……………………..

 

 

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June 30, 2022

Rameswaram – The Island of Temples

Filed under: India — jani @ 6:34 pm

About Rameswaram: This island is located in Ramanathapuram district, the town is a part of Pamban Island also known as Rameswaram. This is one of the four pilgrimage places for Hindus (Char Dham of India). This Island is being associated with the legendry temple Arulmigu Ramanathaswamy Temple, built in marvelous Dravidian style of architecture. Situated at the very tip of the Indian peninsula, the island is connected with Indian mainland by Pamban Bridge on Pamban Channel in Gulf of Mannar. Rameswaram is said to be the Varanasi of South. Rameswaram is believed to be the place from where Lord Rama started his journey to get his wife Sita back from Ravana and he was helped by ‘Vaanar-Sena’ army of legendary monkey-humans and served by Hanuman, Lord Ram’s paramount devotee.

Day 1: After a very stressful week, I needed a short break and the moment I told Sur, he was all ready to go on a break to help me destress. For some reason I was thinking the monsoon has started so the only place I felt comfortable to travel was Rameswaram. This has been in my bucket list for a very long time, however since Sur cannot handle the heat, this has been getting pushed further and further. This time as we ran out of options, Sur reluctantly agreed for Rameswaram.

We started our journey as usual by 6 AM sharp, however it had unusual traffic. After few hours, I was very hungry so we were looking for a place to stop for breakfast, finally found Adyar Ananda Bhavan, near Hosur Industrial Complex and I enjoyed the mini breakfast which had Idli, Dosa, Pongal, Kesari and soft fritter (medhu vada) and a nice filter coffee, while Sur enjoyed the masala ghee dosa. Once we loaded our energy we hit the road back and it was a pretty good drive. We just had to do a quick stop for fuel and then we headed back to the road again.

We were looking for a stop for lunch and we found Ammachi mess, near Kottangulam. It was ok for just a quick south Indian veg meals. Then we hit the road.

On the way we stopped for few minutes in Pamban bridge. This is a railway bridge which connects the town of Mandapam in mainland India with Pamban Island, and Rameswaram. Opened on 24 February 1914, it was India’s first sea bridge, and was the longest sea bridge in India until the opening of the Bandra-Worli Sea Link in 2010.

Then we reached the Daiwik Hotel. We checked in to the room and freshened ourselves. We were too tired to step out for dinner so just ordered some tea and chilli cheese toast, as I realized later this hotel was a pure Veg hotel so I didn’t have other options. Thankfully the chili cheese toast was good. I ordered a cup of tea but I got 4 cups of tea instead. I was trying to finish the whole tea as I didn’t want to waste it and Sur was laughing looking at my plight of tea overdose. Then we dozed off.

Day 2: Woke up to a beautiful day and went for the breakfast. The buffet spread was decent and then headed straight to our first stop Dhanushkodi, this town is believed to be the place where Lord Rama had ordered Lord Hanuman to build a bridge which could carry his army across to Sri Lanka, where Demon King Ravana had kept Sita captive. As ordered, Lord Hanuman had obliged and it was here that the Ram Setu was built by the Vanara Sena.

We went straight to Arichal Munai. It’s a Coastal lookout marking the end point of the Indian mainland, popular for viewing ocean sunsets. We enjoyed the beautiful view of the beach, there were quite a lot of crowd and then came to the Dhanushkodi town, which most of the people call it as a ghost town as this was completely destroyed in Cyclone in 22-23 Dec 1964. There is only a church entrance wall standing and a little bit of altar. Otherside the railway station is completely destroyed and you could see skeletons of post office, school and railway station. Even though the Pamban bridge was rebuilt but the town was never rebuilt as this town after cyclone was considered unfit for living. There are few shops and very few houses with a small hindu temple.

On the way back we visited Kothandaramar Temple. The temple is the only historical structure to survive the 1964 cyclone that washed away Dhanushkodi. The temple is estimated to have been constructed about 500-1000 years ago. Rama, the main idol, is depicted as having a bow (Kothandam), and hence this temple is called Kothandaramar temple. The temple has the deities of Rama, Lakshmana, Sita, Hanuman and Vibhishana. The temple is believed to be the place where Vibhishana, the younger brother of Ravana, asked Rama and his vanara (ape men) army for refuge. According to this tradition, after the abduction of Sita, Vibhishana advised Ravana to return her to Rama. However, Ravana did not listen to the advice, which led to Vibhishana fleeing from Lanka and joining Rama’s army. It is also said that after the slaying of Ravana, Rama performed the “Pattabhishekam” (ascension to king of Lanka) for Vibhishana at this place. The story is depicted in painting across the walls inside the shrine.

Then we headed to Jatayu Theertham which is closeby and this is also considered one of the important shrines in Rameshwaram. The road is pretty narrow with thorny trees on both sides of the road. This place is nice to stop for a group lunch/family outings etc. This temple is dedicated to Jatayu, considered to be the King of birds, who was an ardent and loyal devotee of Lord Rama. According to the religious beliefs, when demon Ravana had kidnapped Goddess Sita, Jatayu had helped Lord Rama by fighting the demon. During the fight, Jatayu’s wings were slashed because of which it fell down and died. Afterwards, Lord Rama had buried the Jatayu body at the place where a temple stands now and is dedicated to Jatayu. it is said that the entire place where it was buried, turned into vibhuti, which is the holy ash that is obtained after the yagnas by the saints. It is also believed that Jatayu also helped in getting herbs from mountains to save Lord Rama’s life. We said a prayer there and then headed to the famous temple of Rameshwaram which is Arulmigu Ramanthaswamy Temple.

This Arulmigu Ramanthaswamy Temple has the longest corridor among all Hindu temples in India. It was built by King Rebel Muthuramalinga Sethupathiy. The temple, located in Rameswaram, is considered a holy pilgrimage site for Shaivites, Vaishnavites and Smarthas. Mythological accounts depict the presiding deity, the Lingam of Ramanathaswamy (Shiva), as having been established and worshiped by Rama, before he crossed his bridge to the present-day island of Sri Lanka. Ramanathaswamy Temple Theertham (holy water bodies) is very special. There are 22 theerthams in the form of a pond and a well. These 22 theerthams represent the 22 arrows of Sri Rama. It is said that every devotee should bathe in these 22 theerthams before going to the sanctum sanctorum of the temple. You are supposed to stand in front of each theertham and the temple folks will take the water from the holy well through a bucket and pour the whole bucket of water on you. We were not at all prepared for this, so we asked the guide to pour the water in the hand so that we can splash a little water on the head instead of getting fully wet. We completed all 22 theerthams, the final one being called Ganga theertham and then we entered the temple to pray. The floors are completely wet and very crowded, so be prepared for that when you plan to visit.

Then we were looking for a place to have our lunch, unfortunately I didn’t realize until then that most of the restaurants are vegetarian as this being temple town. I came with the expectation to enjoy the seafood as it’s a coastal town, to my disappointment, there were mostly vegetarian restaurants.

The two seafood places we identified to try for lunch. First we went to Coral Casita, after spending almost 45 minutes of drive in a small lane, we realized the property didn’t exist. Then we thought we will give a try to Ocean Paradise Beach Resort & Sea Food Restaurant, after another hour drive and wading through the sand a bit we were informed its only for the house guests. So finally we had to return back and Sur now has given up helping me find my food as he was hungry. So I reluctantly agreed to go to a vegetarian restaurant.

The worst part was Sur wanted to try the lunch in JKR Resort & Spa. Imagine my plight, I would have been totally fine to go to restaurants like A2B and order a south Indian veg thali which I love, and I would have been totally ok with it. But going to a high end restaurant for a vegetarian buffet that I couldn’t handle. With all the complaints and grumpy face that I had till I came out of that place, Sur realized never take me out to a high end pure vegetarian restaurant especially while travelling. You don’t want to face me in that situation, I am sure Sur can vouch for that.

Talking about JKR Resort, this place ranked top while we were searching for a place to stay, however every review in the last few months had been negative. Even though the rooms and views are good, the service was pathetic, that’s what we read about the reviews online. That’s why we didn’t book this property. However Sur thought at least will try their food and see the experience by ourselves. The food at JKR for the veg buffet was decent and Sur enjoyed, while I loved the paneer and papads as I didn’t have an option. Then we decided to try some of their drink in the menu like buttermilk etc. The waiter said chef is not available as he stepped out for shopping so only drink available was butter milk, which also might get delayed. This was during peak lunch hours so we kind of understood the level of hospitality at this high-end premium resort.  We also had a family sitting next to us ordering A la carte, they didn’t get their food on time, finally when the food came, there were no plates, for few minutes waiter was not available as he was busy with other customers.The lady lost her patience and started lecturing the waiter.

I had no interest to be at this place any longer, so we quickly left from the place and went to House of Kalam. This is the childhood home of India’s beloved former president, late Dr APJ Abdul Kalam. Not many know that late Dr Kalam was born and raised till his teenage years in the temple town of Rameswaram. The House of Kalam was established as museum in 2011.

Then we headed to Dr. APJ Abdul Kalam National Memorial in Rameswaram. Here you cannot carry a mobile phone, hence ensure don’t carry any things when you go to visit. The one person I always admire is Dr. Kalam, he  is the epitome of simplicity, powerhouse of knowledge and an inspiration to every person specially the students. So I felt so good and was very glad that I visited this place. Looking at the statue of Dr. Kalam, I felt I was meeting him in person and my heart was filled with respect, love and admiration. We had to hurry as it was time for closure, so quickly went around the museum and then we headed back to the hotel. As usual we ordered for the tea and chill cheese toast and dozed off.

Day 3: We had a good rest, had our breakfast and left to see more of Rameswaram. We also had few places to visit which was few kms away from this town. So our first stop for the day was Hanuman Temple (Sri Panchmukhi Hanuman Mandir & Floating Stones) which is the five-faced Hanuman Temple. It is said that Lord had revealed his five faces here, The five faces of lord Hanuman are of Lord Varaha that faces the north, Lord Narasimha facing the south, Lord Garuda facing the west, Lord Hanuman facing the east along with face of Lord Hayagriva that faces the sky. In 1964, after the cyclone in Dhanuskhodi, the idols of Lord Rama and Goddess Sita was brought to this temple and placed here.

Another major attraction of this temple are the ‘floating stones’ that have been kept at the temple for the devotees to see. These floating stones were used for building the floating bridge named Sethu Bandhanam, from Rameshwaram to Lanka so that Lord Rama, Lord Lakshman along with others could go to Lanka to rescue Goddess Sita and put an end to the brutalities of demon Ravana.

Then we went to Ram temple and Ram Tirtham, we said a prayer and left.

Then we headed to Agni Theertham, this place holds a significant place among Hindu Devotees, who visit here to offer their prayers to atone their sins by bathing in its holy waters. It is also visited by devotees to pray for the peace and moksha of their ancestors and to perform rituals after the demise of their loved ones. We didn’t step in the water as it was crowded.

Then we headed to Ram Padam (Ramar Paadham – Ram’s Feet). It is situated in the sandy hillock named Gandha Madhana parvatham (The village where this temple is located). The word Parvatham Literally means Mountain. The feet of Lord Rama is engraved in a stone chakra in this place. The Ramar paadham is the highest point in the Rameswaram, one can see the full panoramic view of Rameswaram island by standing on the top of this Temple. It is said that one can view Sri Lanka by standing on the top of the temple. There is a stair on the side to go upstairs to have the view. It is said that Lord Ram Stood on this place and planned for the bridge, Before he built a bridge (Ram Sethu) across the sea.

Then we headed out of town to explore few places of interest which were close by. First it was Ramanad Palace. This palace is in the midst of the busy main road so we didn’t find the place to park the car. When we asked few people around,  they just said to park it outside and go. We were still worried of getting towed away as this was a busy road. Once we went inside the gate, we realized there was bigger space inside to park. The Gatekeeper then assured that car will not get towed away and it’s safe to keep it out, so we were relieved and went inside.

The entrance had a sign in Tamil (Ramalinga Vilasam). Ramanathapuram or Ramanad Palace is the home of the Sethupathy kings who ruled this region in the 17th century and were considered the guardians of the Sethusamudram near Rameshwaram. Pilgrims and travellers were protected by these rulers. The kings ruled parts of Southern Tamilnadu for more than 300 years and it is believed that some parts of the palace complex precedes even that era. This palace portrays the past glory of King Sethupathi. The mural paintings with natural dyes picturing the historical days of King Sethupathi are still intact. The palace also holds complex weapons which were used by King Sethupathi on various wars. The paintings were not just about the gods and goddess but also about the peace treaties with kings and queens from different countries. There is also idols of Ram, Sita, Hanuman & Lakshman. Then as we stepped out, we also saw few houses inside which we assumed they are the descendants of the royalty and we left for our next destination.

Our next stop was Navapashanam temple (Nine Planets Temple) is a Hindu temple dedicated to Navagrahas, the nine planetary deities, located in Devipattinam, which is 70 Kms from Rameswaram. The legend is that Ram before undertaking the journey to bring back Sita from Lanka, said to have performed prayers towards Navagraha (9 planets) in this place, installing all the deities by his own hands. Here the temple is located close to the sea and you have to walk through a bridge. Since you have to remove the footwear out, be prepared to walk on the bridge barefoot in the hot sun in order to see the nine deities. There were people taking holy bath where the deities were there as this is the only temple where people are allowed to touch the deities.

Next we went to Darbhashayanam Temple, in Tiruppullaani which is located near Ramanathapuram. It means the sacred forest abode of Pula Maharshi. Ram, took rest on the sacred grass during his penance, for three days and nights, in this particular place. There is a shrine of Lord Rama in the Darbasayana pose, signifying his resting here and invoking Varuna for help in crossing the ocean, enroute to Sri Lanka in search of Sita. Pullaranyam was a marshy land full of grass and Sri Rama chose a bed of Darbha grass, which is held very sacred by all the Hindus. The grass is used on all sacred occasions during the performance of propitiatory rituals in honour of Gods and one’s ancestors. Since it was lunch time, the temple was closed and I also had few work calls to take. So we went around and found few trees where we got a nice shade to park the car as the weather was hot and then attended my work calls. Then we headed to the temple however the sanctum was closed. So just stood out, said a prayer and we left.

Then we headed to Uthirakosamangai Temple (Mangalanatha Swamy Temple). The place got this name Uthirakosamangai from the fact that Lord Shiva taught Parvati the secrets of the Vedas. It is located in Ramanathapuram District in Tamil Nadu. It is one of the most ancient Shiva temples, Sethupathi Maharaja family is the hereditary trustee.The antiquity of the temple is also evident from the fact that the name of Mandodari, wife of Ravana (Emperor of Sri Lanka) is engraved on the wall of the temple. This temple is the place where the world’s first Natarajar appeared. The temple has the Emerald Nataraja Statue (Maragatha Natarajar). The famous Mughal King Alauddin Khilji, who ruled Delhi in the year 1300, found out that there was an emerald Natarajar statue in Uthirakosamangai and tried to loot it but he did not succeed in his attempt. It is also believed to be the first temple in the world.

When we reached the place, temple was still closed. Since I had few work calls to be done we parked in front of the temple and then by the time I finished the call, temple opened. So we were relieved and went inside the temple. First we went to visit the Natarajar temple on the right side which was outside of the main temple, prayed and then came to the main temple. Then on the left was  goddess Parvati temple. Since this is the auspicious place for weddings we did see few newly wedded couples who just finished their rituals in the temple. Then we headed out to our next stop.

We reached Erwadi Dargah which is in Erwadi village in Ramanathapuram District. It is the holiest place for Islam. Here they have the grave and the shrine of Qutbus Sulthan Syed Ibrahim Shaheed Badusha Radiyallh Ta’ala anhu, the then ruler of Madinah Al Munawwara. The four dargahs were built here to commemorate Seyyad Ali Sulthan Ibrahim Shahid, His mother Fathima, wife Seyyad Ali Fathima & son Abu Thahir who migrated from Saudi Arabia and were considered messengers of God. Seyyad Ali performed lot of miracles, hence the King Sethupati gifted this land (6000 acres) as a token of appreciation. After King Sethupathi, Vikrama Pandya ruled this place and he was not in favour of him as the Hindus were converting to Muslims, So war broke out and except son, all of them lost their lives during the war. Here people bring mentally ill patients as they believe, God can cure them as Seyyad Ali had perfomed lot of miracles here. This is also a place of religious harmony which King Sethupathi patranised and that bond between hindus and muslims still continues till date.

It’s near the main road and we went in the afternoon so this was also closed and we saw it from out and left. Then on our way near the junction where we needed to head to Rameswaram, there was a juice vendor, we enjoyed the local drinks like kulukki sharbath, sugar cane juice, kulukki soda etc and then returned to the hotel, had our usual tea and chilli cheese toast and hit our bed.

Day 4: We woke up after a good sleep, had our breakfast and then it was time to check out. Had a lovely drive. We didn’t stop much as we wanted to reach Bangalore as quickly as possible. When we had to stop for lunch, we tried to look for a non-vegetarian place as I was complaining of eating veg food for the last 3 days, however we missed as usual. Then we gave up our search and settled for whatever was available. We found a new restaurant KMH Veg Restaurant near Velambadi. Sur loved the chilli mushroom manjurian and I ordered the south Indian veg thali. The place was very clean  and the food was good. Then we headed straight to Bangalore and reached home by evening.

For me the whole trip looked like a penance but it was worth visiting this place. For all the seafood lovers, Dhanushkodi has few seafood restaurants, since we went in the morning just after breakfast, we couldn’t enjoy it. Once you are in Rameswaram town mostly you have to be prepared for a vegetarian meal.

Until our next trip, please stay safe and wear the mask. Sending all the blessings for world peace and harmony…

 

 

 

 

 

 

June 10, 2022

Sikkim – The Mystic Beauty

Filed under: India — jani @ 11:17 pm

About Sikkim: Sikkim is a state in Northeast India, bordered by Bhutan, Tibet and Nepal. A part of the Eastern Himalaya, Sikkim is notable for its biodiversity, including alpine and subtropical climates, as well as being a host to Kangchenjunga, the highest peak in India and third highest on Earth. Sikkim’s capital and largest city is Gangtok. Sikkim is also home to glaciers and thousands of varieties of wildflowers.

It was time for another break after our exams and time to check out another north-eastern state and this time it was Sikkim. We were supposed to start on a Saturday, however as usual my exam got postponed to Sunday so had to miss those two days and we joined the group on the third day.

Day 1: Due to exam schedules, we couldn’t get any sleep and we did the last minute packing and we rushed to the airport early morning. It was unusually crowded in Bangalore before we boarded the flight and then finally we reached Bagdogra. The driver picked us up and we were on the way to Simtang, before we started to Dzongu as the remaining group members had reached there after they spent 2 days of the trip in Gangtok and they had indulged in shopping and cable car rides. It took 3-4 hours since it was raining as well. Since we were too tired and didn’t sleep for the last two 2 nights, we just dozed off. Driver took a short tea break as we didn’t want to step out and once he was back we were almost closer to Simtang.

Then we switched cabs which had permit to go to Dzongu. In the meantime, the other group members also were travelling from Gangtok to Dzongu in a different route. On the way it started raining heavily and had few landslides on the way. So we had a jam, had to wait for almost 45 minutes to clear one by one before we could continue our journey. This seems to be their daily situation for the people who live there, huge respect to them for the patience and discipline. No one tried to overtake, they all waited in line and once the debris were cleared from landslides, we continued our journey. Sometimes travelling to such places makes you introspect the luxuries that we take for granted which is available in the cities. My respect and love for these people grew and also it also makes you think that how much grateful that we need to be for all the luxuries that we enjoy in the city rather than complaining for little things.

Then we had to stop at Mangan checkpost to collect our ILPs (Inner Line Permit), this seems to be required in every region, so we had to pick up multiple ILPs throughout our journey while we travelled to different places in Sikkim. When we reached the Mangan checkpost, the cops said, our group had already picked up for us so we proceeded towards Dzongu. The paths were too narrow, it was too scary to drive on these roads due to rain as there were landslides, some of the roads had disappeared due to rain, sometimes we had to get out of the car as the road was too narrow and it could topple to Teesta river due to our weight which was flowing in full strength due to continuous rain. It also gave way for lot of rainfalls which we enjoyed on the way. We were also praying that we reach the destination at the earliest before it gets dark as these hilly terrains were very risky to drive in dark.

It was difficult to locate in google maps the Lepcha Home Stay which we were staying for the night as google map had no roads registered in the system so finally we called the homestay folks and they guided. Finally we found the homestay. Then when I had to pay the driver, I had offered few hundreds extra after seeing him drive through such hard terrains, that made him and myself happy. Then we reached the homestay and we met the other group members who had reached just half an hour before than us. Since it was still raining all that we could do was sit in the homestay. We were 8 of us plus the tour lead Santosh, so we were 9 of us who were part of this trip. We had Tasneem, her spouse Shabbir and her mother Rashida, then Chaitanya, Saniye, Neha, Santhosh, Sur and myself. We met each other and we introduced each other. It was nice to meet Tasneem whom we met earlier in Bhutan and of course Santosh, It’s always good to travel with him.

This homestay was run by a Lepcha family and we got served their authentic Lepcha cuisines. The Lepcha are among the indigenous peoples of the Indian state of Sikkim and Nepal, and number around 80,000. Many Lepcha are also found in western and southwestern Bhutan, Tibet, Darjeeling, the Province No. 1 of eastern Nepal, and in the hills of West Bengal.

We got the lunch which had cheese soup, it’s an acquired taste so I just took a sip and passed on to Sur who loves cheese and he seemed to enjoy that. We also had some fried rice which was good. After sometime they prepared tea and pakodas and then we also tasted the local Guava wine which was really good and then Santosh tried Tongba (Tongba is a Limbu millet-based alcoholic beverage found in the eastern mountainous region of Nepal and the neighbouring Darjeeling and Sikkim. It is the traditional and indigenous drink of the Limbu people as well as people of other Kirati communities and many other ethnic group of Nepal). It was served in a bamboo container and with a organic straw, you have to sip the drink and have to keep pouring hot water as the drink gets emptied. It was pretty interesting and we all tried a little.

Some of the group members ventured in the rain to go to the closeby monastery but we remained indoors as we wanted to avoid the leeches and the stairs to the monastery were slippery too. Then we joined for a dinner which was authentic Lepcha cuisine. They had dal, roti, chicken, one of the local fern Ningro that was cooked. We enjoyed the meal and then we chatted with Santosh and Chaitanya for sometime as we were staying in different block and then we dozed off.

Day 2: Woke up to a rainy day and I had an encounter with leech when I went for shower which was outside, somehow my mini perfume bottle helped to give the leech the scented burial (in the words of Santosh) for the leech so I didn’t have to donate my blood. But it was a bit annoying and worrying about leeches as we had to step out every time since the rest rooms were away.

Then we headed to our breakfast with dumpling soup and millet parathas which was ok and then we started our journey to Lachung. On the way we stopped near Toong bridge as it was closed for few hours for repair work, had a tea and maggi break, while the drivers had their brunch. We also picked up some local wines and watermelon flavoured breezer since I never found this in Bangalore. On the way we crossed the Theng tunnel which was amazing. Even though it was raining, we enjoyed the scenery inspite of jams, landslides due to heavy pouring of rain. The one thing evey roadside that you see is hydrangea flowers all over and with the variety of colors. That was so beautiful to watch.

Then we reached our next stop Wonderhill Inn in Lepchang. We also realized we didn’t pack enough for the cold weather and we had no other option than to manage somehow. Here it was not just raining and more colder, we also didn’t have power in the entire area and that continued even for the next day. Once we reached and refreshed ourselves in the cold water, we went in for a nice lunch. We had the best and tastiest food here. Most of them were Bengalis, the thali had a bit of Bengali influence. We had rice, potato vegetable made in a Bengali way, chicken curry and vegetarians had paneer and egg curry etc. We enjoyed the lunch and had to stay indoors as it was still raining. Chaitanya and Saniye went to closeby monastery in the rain however we remained indoors.

In the late evening, rain had stopped a little so we walked around to pick up the neck warmer and hats as it was too cold here, so we walked further and also I found Shaphaley When I saw this on the board I asked the lady what was it and she said it’s a non-veg and I may not eat, so I asked her to tell me which meat is that and she said it was Yak meat. So I told her that I will come back in the evening with Santosh to taste as I went with all the vegetarians. So after some time Santosh and myself went back to enjoy the Shaphaley ((Shabhaley, also known as sha phaley, is a Tibetan dish of bread stuffed with seasoned meat and cabbage, which is then fashioned into semi-circular or circular shapes and which according to regional variations is either deep fried) which was done with Yak meat and it was so delicious, so we ordered more and enjoyed the lemon tea post that. We also found Sikkim Old Gold, which is an Indian single malt made at the foot of the Himalayas. This is presented in a khukri-shaped (traditional Nepalese sword) bottle. we only picked up because of the shape of the bottle which was fascinating. Then we headed back to the room. Since there was no power and were not sure when will it be back, we got a candle in the room and then dozed off as others went for dinner, chatted and then crashed for the night.

Day 3: Thankfully we woke up to a sunny day for a change and we were glad that finally we could step out and do some sightseeing. We rented boots and jacket which came in handy as we were heading to Yumthang Valley and Zero point. Thankfully the neckwarmer, hats and handgloves that we purchased a day before helped a bit and we headed towards Yumthang Valley. It was at a distance of about 26 kilometers from Lachung.

Yumthang valley is situated at an altitude of nearly 11800 feet with the river Lachung Chu flowing through the valley and where the tree line ends and the cold desert starts. On the way there was a hot spring but we didn’t step out and also we saw beautiful Rhododendron flowers all over enhancing the beauty of the place. Even though this was not the season but still few bloomed, for us to see and we were glad for the picturesome view of those flowers everywhere. Then we stopped at Yumthang Valley, this was one of the best picturesome location and the water was freezing cold as those are from glaciers. There were Yaks all over and some of us took the pictures and then we headed to zero point.

Since Neha was not feeling well, she waited in the valley itself as we headed to Zero Point. This is Located at an altitude of 15000 ft, the place where Zero Point lies is known as Yume Samdong and it would take you around 1.5 hours to reach from Yumthang. The place is called Zero Point because this is where civilian road ends and civilians are not allowed to go beyond this point. I had a mild symptom of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). This happens as a result of reduced oxygen content in the blood, owing to low atmospheric pressure at high-altitude areas. If you feel a bit dizzy and lethargic at times or experience a mild or severe headache, these are symptoms of AMS. The driver suggested that when you step out of the car, don’t get down immediately and also don’t walk fast. So that helped me as I sat in the car for some time and slowly walked to the roadside stalls for a coffee, maggi and Rhododendron flowers wine. It was too cold to be out for a longer time, so I quickly got into the car and then we came down to Yumthang valley, went for a quick lunch break, did a bit of shopping for some warm clothes and then Neha joined us back as we headed back to the place where we were staying. Still there was no luck on the power and Santosh and myself went to taste the Shaphaley again and this time they had beef instead of Yak. We enjoyed and as we came down we saw slowly power was getting restored in some places. Finally little late night we got the power just before we dozed off for the night.

Day 4: Woke up to a beautiful Sunny morning, had a quick breakfast of aloo parathas, they were really good and then we headed to Gangtok. We had to hurry as we didn’t want to get stuck when the bridge closes for repair work for few hours, so we rushed and we made it just on time before the bridge closes. Then we checked in to Griffon’s Nest in Gangtok. By then we were hungry, since the chef was away for shopping, we had to step out for lunch. Neha had suggested we try Nimtho Restaurant for lunch as we were looking for authentic Sikkimese Thali. So we went to Mahatma Gandhi Marg Road and went to Nimtho. We ordered for Sikkimese Thali and Thakkali Thali (Thakkali is one of the ethnic communities of Nepal, so this is one of the Nepalese Thalis). Both of them were almost similar. It had rice, dal, vegetables, fermented soya vegetable and spicy chutneys.

Then we wanted to do some shopping in Lal Bazaar, which was closeby. Then we got to know Thursday is a holiday and none of the shops were open. So we did the shopping in Mahatma Gandhi Marg itself as they did have shopping places. After an hour of shopping, we went to a Baker’s Café which Saniye has been raving about which had the best Pancakes so we went for a coffee and pancakes. Their banana pancakes were good, I wanted to try the Kashmiri Kahwa as I heard this name very often. To my surprise it was almost like a green tea with dried rose petals, honey and saffron. Even though it was good but I would have skipped this for a nice coffee instead when I had pancakes for the side. Then we headed back to the room. We tried the local wines that we picked up in Lachung and tried the Sikkimese Whiskey and the watermelon flavoured breezer and then we headed back to sleep.

Day 5: We woke up, had a bread toast and omelette and headed to Zuluk to explore the Eastern Sikkim. We waited for the permit to be picked up and then headed to Zuluk. On the way we stopped for a nice view and for a cup of coffee, however it was very foggy. So we took a coffee break and headed to Tsomgo Lake, also known as Tsongmo Lake or Changgu Lake, is a glacial lake in the East Sikkim at an elevation of 3,753 m. Apparently this lake remains frozen during the winter season. It was too cold and some of us felt slight dizzy due to AMS so we didn’t climb all the way for the view. We strolled around the lake, walking very slowly, that kind of helped to get acclaimed since the oxygen is less in these regions. Then we also wore a Sikkimese traditional costume for the photos, there were lot of Yak rides which I avoid as I don’t like to ride on animals.

Then we headed to Baba Harbhajan Singh Temple Memorial & temple honoring Indian army soldier, folk hero saint Baba Harbhajan Singh. Located between Nathula and Jelepla pass at an altitude of 13,123 ft, Baba Harbhajan Singh Temple is a unique destination mainly due to the legacy attached with it. It is believed that his spirit protects every soldier in the inhospitable high-altitude terrain of the Eastern Himalayas. He was a soldier of an Indian army. On October 4, 1968, while he was escorting a mule column from Tuku La, his battalion headquarters to Donguchui La, Harbhajan Singh suddenly slipped and fell and drowned in the glacier. Strong water current carried his body for about 2 kms from the site of the accident. He was searched with all efforts, but his body went missing. On the fifth day of his missing, his fellow roommate Pritam Singh had a dream, where Harbhajan Singh himself informed him of his tragic death and he also mentioned that his body is lying underneath the heap of snows. Harbhajan Singh also expressed the strong desire to have a samadhi made after him. However, Pritam Singh did not pay much importance to his dream. But later, when Harbhajan Singh’s body was discovered at the very place, which he had mentioned in the dream, all were taken aback. And, to honor his wish, a samadhi was built near Chhokya Chho at an elevation of around 4,000 meters, which gained popularity as the Old Baba Mandir. This samadhi is less visited by tourists. Visitors need to climb 50 stairs to reach the bunker, the site where the samadhi has been built. This was the place where Baba was posted during his service period in Indian army. It is further believed that during the event of a war between India and China, Baba would warn the Indian soldiers of any impending attack atleast three days in advance. It is said that he did continue to serve the nation even after his death. This folklore has been very popular not only among the Indian soldiers but also to the Chinese side as well. In fact during flag meetings between the two nations at Nathu La, the Chinese would set a chair aside in honour of Harbhajan Singh who has since come to be known as “Saint Baba”.

It is believed that Baba Harbhajan Singh guards the international boundary between India and China, over the last three decades and he is accomplishing this task alone. Even the Chinese army also confirms that they have noticed a human figure, guarding the border at night, riding on a horse. It is also said that Baba Harbhajan Singh foretells any dangerous activity on the border through the dreams of the fellow army men and safeguards the force.

The personal room of Baba is on the right side which harbours different essential articles for day to day use and a clean properly arranged bed. Even the tidy uniform and well-polished shoes are kept, according to the legend the boots became muddy by evening and the bed sheets were crumbled in the morning.

Baba Mandir The old one has been built at the site of the bunker, where Baba Harbhajan was posted during his tenure in the Indian Army. The new one has been built at close proximity from Changu Lake. The salary of Major Harbhajan Singh has not been stopped and he is also granted his annual leave.

I had read about this story when Indo-China tension started a year or two back. I had no clue that this was the place where the memorial was. I was so glad to have visited this place and my respect and love to all the army men who is guarding our borders at such difficult terrain.

There is canteen close to the mandir where Army runs the café, we chatted a bit with the soldiers. they come down here to do voluntary service in the café etc. They had served prasad (kesari) and that was delicious. Then we went to the café and enjoyed the maggi. They didn’t have power and still they were making our maggi and coffees in the stove. Also they informed they serve food like langar on Sundays, so he asked us to come. Unfortunately we were leaving that day. All our love and respect to soldiers for their sacrifice to guard the borders at such altitude and it was not at all a pleasant place to be there because of that altitude. I had to stay down due to AMS, slowly my body got used as I didn’t climb the stairs for the mandir upstairs. Looking at every soldier coming and giving a solute to Harbhajan Singh, you can’t explain that love and respect in words. Please go ahead and experience this place in person. Be prepared to carry enough warm clothes, including hand gloves, neck warmer and a really good jacket.

This was the most enriching experience in the entire trip. If you are in Sikkim please don’t miss out. This is not just his memorial, this is also a reminder to show gratitude to all the soldiers who sacrificed their lives in protecting the borders, not just the front line but every support staff involved in this.

Then we headed further close to Dolchem Pass which also had lot of flowers on the way, enjoyed the view and the cold weather which was not so pleasant and then we headed towards Zuluk. Zuluk was once a transit point to the historic Silk Route from Tibet to India. We wanted to stop near Thambi View point however it was so foggy so we didn’t. We were lucky we had couple of view points before that just before the fog started covering up. Then we headed to the homestay in Phadamchen. We were hungry so got nice tea and pakodas and then the group was playing cards while I got busy with work calls. We also were served the dinner early since we missed the lunch and it was delicious. We also had few leeches visiting Sur and Santosh while they stepped out as it had rained a bit. Sur escaped but Santosh was donating blood to leeches every time. Then Santosh, Chaitanya, Sur and myself chatted over a drink and then we hit our bed.

Day 6: We woke up to a foggy day, and then we headed to Siliguri. On the way we had the view of lot of birds like Asian barred Owlet, Himalayan Bluetail, Buff barred Warbler, Golden Bush Robin, Small Niltava, Pheasant and Oriental Turtle Dove. We didn’t stop much on the way and we reached Hotel Swatik Residency in Pradhan Nagar, Siliguri. We freshened up and came for lunch at their restaurant. Since it was little late, they had limited options. Santosh and myself enjoyed the chicken biryani and others had ordered their veg dishes and it was good. Then we headed out for a quick shopping. First we went to Hong Kong Market, it’s a good place for shopping and be prepared to bargain before you buy it. Then it looked like it was going to rain so we headed to Planet Mall but it had very few shops, we found Worth the Hype Café and we thought we will try something there. The food and Sangria were good and then we headed to Baisakhi Mela as we happened to notice this on the way. Even though Sur was not keen, since all others were excited to see what was there, he also joined us. They had lot of shopping stalls and food. We straight away went to Pani Puri stall, then tried chaat, then Sur, Chaitanya and Saniye went to almost all the rides. Neha and myself did a bit of shopping and then we enjoyed the Bombay Falooda. After that we all of us did little more shopping and then headed back to hotel. We went and crashed after having so much food at the mela.

Day 7: Woke up little early, It was time to leave for Bagdogra airport and then we were worried as we had a little extra baggage, somehow that got ignored and we were glad. We reached the airport, it was crowded as well, had a sandwich at the airport which was not very great and then it was time for boarding and we boarded the flight back to Bangalore. It was another great experience with Exotic Expeditions and all the credit goes to Santosh for all his efforts.

April 6, 2022

Hyderabad – City of Nizams & Pearls

Filed under: India — jani @ 12:20 pm

Hyderabad – City of Nizams & Pearls

Hyderabad is the capital of southern India’s Telangana state. Its historic sites include Golconda Fort, a former diamond-trading center that was once the Qutb Shahi dynastic capital. The Charminar, a 16th-century mosque whose 4 arches support towering minarets, is an old city landmark near the long-standing Laad Bazaar. Now this city has become a major center for the technology industry.

The city of Hyderabad is known for Nizams and pearls. There were 7 Nizams who ruled Hyderabad from 18-20th Century. Hyderabad was the largest and most prosperous among all the princely states. The famous mines of Golconda were the major source of wealth for the Nizams, with the Kingdom of Hyderabad being the only supplier of diamonds for the global market in the 18th century.

The last Nizam of Hyderabad state, Mir Osman Ali Khan crowned in 1911, had been the richest man in the world in his time. The Nizams developed the railway, introduced electricity, and developed roads, airways, irrigation and reservoirs; in fact, all major public buildings in Hyderabad City were built during his reign during the period of British rule in India. He pushed education, science, and establishment of Osmania University. Since the Nizams had their origin in Persia (now its Iran) Hyderabad’s food and culture had an influence of Persia. The Hyderabad city was the first city in Southern India to be electrified.

Day 1: It was time for a short break before we both get busy with another exam and crazy work schedule. The visit to Hyderabad had been cancelled earlier pre-covid time, when Sur fell ill just a night before our travel. So this visit had been pending and when we only could spare a few days for a vacation, my first thought was to visit Hyderabad. Like most of them, Sur also had the same question – What is there in Hyderabad? Most of them cannot think beyond biryani and pearls which Sur anyway is not interested. So finally I had to dig up a little research and tell him there is lot more than Biryani and Pearls. Then we finalized the itinerary and asked our travel partner, Sailani Tours to book Sitara Hotel in Ramoji Film City and Mr. Inayath (+91 9845085649) took care of the booking part of it and he also gave some inputs to plan the itinerary. Since it was a very short trip of 2 nights we thought we will stay at the same place even though Inayath recommended to stay in a city limit while doing city tour and stay in Sitara when we needed to do a Ramoji Film city Tour. However we didn’t want to move since the trip was too short. So we booked for 2 nights in Sitara. As we were planning the itinerary we realized we needed an extra day so we asked Inayath to extend another night at Sitara.

We were planning to start early morning but we were up late night the previous day due to work, so we couldn’t open our eyes in the morning. So we decided to sleep for few more hours and started our trip only in the early afternoon. It was almost 9 hours of drive and the roads were pretty good. We saved some time as we didn’t stop for lunch as were not hungry. Only in the evening, we needed to stretch our legs for a bit so we decided to take a break as it was tea time and we stopped in Sri Priya Darshini Family Restaurant, which was in NH 44, bypass, Bangalore – Hyderabad Highway. We ordered for some onion pakoras and tea. Sur got some energy drink, they took almost half an hour to get the snacks and when it came it was over fried almost at the verge of semi burnt stage. We informed the waiter, he obliged to replace but we didn’t have another half an hour to wait as we didn’t want reach the destination late night, so had the quick tea which was drinkable. Thankfully the waiter didn’t charge for the pakoras, paid the bill and started our journey back.

It was almost 9.30 PM that we reached the hotel Sitara after a beautiful drive in Nehru outer ring road. We checked in and went to the room, we had heard quite of lot about this hotel as it’s in Ramoji Film city. But it kind of didn’t meet our expectations. First of all rooms were not well maintained, you could see dirty sockets in the room and corridors. Also we were given the room, where there was an adjoint room and there was no sound proofing done to the room. We could hear literally every conversation the guests were having in the next room. They had a kid as well and so we couldn’t sleep due to the constant noises. But the service at the hotel and the food were good. Then we also found that Friday is a holiday in Hyderabad where all the monuments are closed so we had to change our itinerary to do the visit of Ramoji Film city on Friday.

We were slightly hungry, so we decided to order a chicken sandwich and Sur ordered a paneer pakora and fresh orange and pineapple juice. I asked the in Room Dining team not to toast the sandwich bread and make the sandwich in a plain bread. When I got the sandwich, Sur started laughing as I had toasted chicken sandwich and along with it came 2 plain sandwich breads and I was not sure what to do with it. We just laughed. We needed to plan for the next day tour. We found a Full Day Sightseeing Tour of Hyderabad through Trip Advisor, we booked it and then we dozed off.

Day 2: We had to wake up early, had a quick breakfast and then we had a car picking us up  from the hotel for the tour. The driver (Mr. Sashi – +91 9701988808) picked us up and then we started our city tour. On the way, we picked up our guide for the private city tour (Mr. Srinu Arvapalli – +91 9347239648/srinu_tourism@rediffmail.com).

First we visited the Golconda Fort. This was the place for Diamond mining until diamonds in Africa were discovered. This fort has 360 steps and it is another wonder that our country has. Lot of credit goes to the last Nizam – Mir Osman Ali Khan (7th Nizam) who inspite of being a Muslim was secular and every person in the state irrespective of religion loved him. The Nizam was the highest-ranking prince in India, and was one of only five princes entitled to a 21-gun salute, held the unique title of “Nizam”, and titled “His Exalted Highness”. When he died, his funeral procession was the biggest non-religious, non-political meeting of people in the history of India till that date and it was almost 1 million people came to pay their respects and it was a day of mourning. Respect and love to the Nizams who built this city and contributed for various welfare activities and worked for the upliftment of the people.

This fort also has Jagadamba temple which is very close to the oldest mosque which was used by the Nizams for prayer. Kancharla Gopanna, popularly known as Bhakta Ramadasu or Bhadrachala Ramadasu, was a 16th-century devotee of the Hindu god Rama, a saint-poet and a composer of Carnatic music and he was imprisoned for almost 12 years in the fort and later was released.

Then we headed to the The Qutub Shahi Tombs which is located in the Ibrahim Bagh, close to the famous Golconda Fort. They contain the tombs and mosques built by the various kings of the Qutub Shahi dynasty, some of them being renovated now. These are beautiful monuments which is a must visit.

Then it was time for a visit to Charminar, a city monument designed in the Qutub Shahi architectural style that’s known as one of the most famous sights in India. The Charminar constructed in 1591has become known globally as a symbol of Hyderabad and is listed among the most recognised structures in India. It has also been officially incorporated as the Emblem of Telangana for the state of Telangana.

Then we headed to taste the Iranian Chai at Nimrah Café & Bakery. We enjoyed the chai and the cookies which were different and were delicious. We picked up few assorted cookies and headed back to the car. There is Laad Bazaar or Choodi Bazaar is a very old market popular for bangles. It is located on one of the four main roads that branch out from the historic Charminar. Laad meaning lacquer is used to make bangles, on which artificial diamonds are studded. In this 1-kilometre (0.62 mi)-long shopping strip, most of the shops sell bangles, saris, wedding related items, and imitation jewelleries.

Our next stop was to Chowmahalla Palace (means 4 palaces) which is usually the ceremonial palace of the Nizams like coronation etc. Looking at the majestic palace gives an idea about the lifestyle of Nizams and their luxurious life.

Hyderabad is known for Biryanis and we were recommended the following places for an authentic biryani. Paradise Restaurant, Shadab Restaurant, Bahar café, Barwachi Biryani and Nayab Restaurant. Since we were not hungry during lunch or dinner hours we missed to taste from these places.

Then we headed to Ambica Pearls and Jewellers, Lower Tankbund Road for a pearl set before we got dropped back to the hotel. Since we were not hungry, we just ordered the sandwiches, had a quick bite and slept.

Day 3:  We had a good rest and delicious breakfast and started our work. We had booked Heritage Walk with HiTea at Falaknuma Palace from Trip Advisor in the afternoon. By afternoon Mr. Shashi had picked us up from the hotel and we left for Falaknuma Palace. Perched 2,000 feet above the city of Hyderabad is the Taj Falaknuma Palace which is a jewel amongst the clouds. Built in 1894, it is the former palace of the Nizam and richest man in the world at one time. Overlooking the twinkling City of Pearls, this enchanting palace hotel in Hyderabad exudes romance and grandeur that take one back to when the Nizam ruled Hyderabad. As you enter the palace, its all about Royalty and the historian who seems to have worked with one of the Nizams’s family, had explained about the history of the palace. We saw the place where Nizam used as an office, where you had the painting of the last Nizam. The speciality of this painting was when you look at the painting in any direction, you feel like the Nizam is looking at you. Then there is Durbar Hall where there are Belgium chandeliers which if you look at the mirror, you feel there is infinite number of chandeliers. Then we headed to the Jade Room which was a tea place for Nizams. It houses the massive 101-seater dining hall bedecked with Belgian chandeliers which is the longest dining table in the world. It has a paining of the menus from which the Nizam orders it. Then there is indoor games place, one of 2 biggest billiards table, hookah bar and beautiful gardens. It was a Royal splendour and elegance. Then we went to Celeste for high tea. Taj properties always have earned that respect for their excellent hospitality and this was the best experience and you were treated like royalty. Good that we didn’t have lunch as we were warned by our city guide the previous day, since there was lot of food. The staffs here treat you like royalty. We were served with the fresh juice and there were few varieties of mini sandwiches, one of them was pan flavoured, another had salmon and another chicken. There were tarts, muffins, macarons, mousse and cakes. Sur had the similar one with Vegetarian items. We were also served vada pav, chilli pakora, cheese balls and tava fish fry and Sur had veg cutlets. It was too much food, so we just tasted few and enjoyed the royal high tea experience. Then we realized we needed to enjoy this palace experience at least for a night so we asked Inayath to book for a night and so our stay got extended for another night. Finally we ended the high tea with a nice masala tea and Sur settled for lime soda.

Then we headed to Charminar to search for the perfume place as our city guide had recommended. There is a place called Hyderabad Perfumers in Pathergatti Road in Mir Chowk close to Charminar, we had a walk a kilometre from Charminar by foot as its way too crowded so driver said, its better to walk by foot. So we found the place picked up few attars from different scents and returned back.

Finally how can I forget the delicious and spicy Andhra pickles and Kandi Podi (gun powder – dry roasted lentils with other spices to give a nice aromatic fragrance and spiciness to eat with idly and dosa) and Pappu Podi (lentils powder – this powder is mixed with ghee and eaten with Idli or rice as well), so the guide recommended to go to Swagruha stores near LB Nagar and I picked up Gongura pickle (Sorrell Leaves), Tomato pickle, Red Chilli pickle, Kandi Podi and Pappu Podi. I was so happy to get the authentic pickles and powder and we got dropped at the hotel. We hit the bed and dozed off.

Day 4: We woke up after a good sleep, went for a quick breakfast and started our Ramoji Studio Tour. Ramoji Film City is an integrated film studio complex  and spread over 1,666 acres. it is the largest integrated film city in the world and as such has been certified by the Guinness World Records as the largest studio complex in the world. It was built by Telugu film producer Ramoji Rao in 1996. It is also a popular tourism and recreation centre, containing natural and artificial attractions including an amusement park. Here there are film sets, theme parks, amusement rides, etc The film city also has 6 hotels inside it, 47 sound stages and permanent sets ranging from railway stations to temples for film shoots. This film city also has the set used for the films Baahubali: The Beginning and Baahubali 2: The Conclusion, all the statues and props used in the films can be seen here.

We had booked the star experience ticket which makes you to skip the queue for the rides and you travel in an AC car. We got picked up at 9.30 AM from the hotel lobby and got dropped near the ticket counter to pick up our tickets, star experience stickers, chocolate box, water bottle and coupons for the whole day tour. 9.45 AM is the studio opens with a beautiful welcome dance and then the team welcomes you a step further with another western dance to welcome you. Then we had a small act near cow boy set and we were given around 30 minutes to do rides. Since we were not into rides, we waited near the guide Mr. Kranthi for the day before we boarded the bus to the next destination. The guide was very helpful. Then we went to the butterfly park and birds park. First we enjoyed the butterfly park and then headed to birds park. It was so beautiful to see various birds from Crowned Cane, Waffled Crane, Hadada Ibis, Shoe bill, Ostrich, Horn Bill, Carolina Duck, Australian Shelduck, Mandarin Duck, White Mandarin Duck, Black Swan, Black Necked Swan, Whooper Swan, Trumpetor Swan, Lorikeets from Yellow Bibbed Lory, Red collared Lory, Green Naped Lory, Swainson Lory, Blue Crowned Pigeon, Eclectus Parrot, Lady Amherst Pheasant, Golden Phesant, Shamrock Macaw, Scarlet Macaw, Blue Gold Macaw, Green Winged Macaw, Blue throated Macaw, Military Macaw, Toco Toucan, Keel Billed Toucan, Channel Billed Toucan, Black Necked Aracari, Lady Ross’s Turaco, White Cheeked Turaco, Galah Cockatoo, Black Palm Cockatoo, Moluccan Cockatoo, Blue headed Pionus, Rubino Rosella, Blue Fronted Amazon, Barrabanda Parrot, Sun Parakeet, Branze Winged Parrot, Lilac Crowned Amazon and there were many more. Then we went to the cave, there were some historical artifacts of Gods were there. Then we had a shooting spot tour and Mr. Rao had such an amazing commentary as he took us through different spots used for shooting like airport, hospital, railway station, prison, European street, the spots where various movies were shot etc. It was hilarious and fun as the guide had excellent sense of humor to make us smile.  Also we got stopped near Golden Temple, Jaipur location sets etc. It was pretty interesting. Then we were taken to Bahubali Movie set. Apparently the director Mr. Rajamouli stayed in Ramoji for 600 days and the set is kept intact for the viewers. It was amazing to watch. Sur was getting bored since he doesn’t watch much of regional movies even though I was trying to explain as much as I can. Then we headed to Super Star Restaurant for a buffet and the food was really good. We always know Andhra Food/Telangana food it can’t go wrong as they are spicy which we both love. After the lunch we were supposed to have some shows but unfortunately I had a work call and had to return back to the hotel. So we informed the guide and we left. This is a perfect place for Children and also who enjoys the movies and loves to take selfies as you have enough beautiful spots for the same. So we returned back to the hotel, got back to work. We ordered some masala papads, it was good but was a little salty for our palate. Then we dozed off.

Day 5: We woke up a little late as we were free of work calls today, had a quick breakfast and were ready to check out. As we tried to open the door, some family entered the room with their key cards. Thankfully we were getting out but this was completely unacceptable as the team should not have given to other guests the room key card when the guests have not checked in. We had immediately escalated saying , it would have been worst, if a guest was in the shower or changing clothes. We informed the reception to be more careful next time and they apologized. We checked out, thanked for their hospitality and drove to Taj Falaknuma. After an hour drive we reached Taj. We parked the vehicle and from that gate we were taken in a horse carriage till the reception. That was a beautiful experience. As we entered, the staff took the picture and then there was another guard who accompanied us to the reception. It was how the Nizam’s were welcomed so they hotel tries to give a similar experience. As we climbed the stairs to the reception, there was a shower of rose petals. Then we entered the reception, they had everything ready and they just asked us to sign and we were also informed they had given us a free upgrade to Royal Suite Room. Then the staff explained the activities and then we reached the room. We were allotted Shah Jahan Suite and it was beautiful. We were prepared to get ourselves pampered for the day. Sur ordered for Dahi Kebab which was delicious. So we immediately booked their signature spa – Nawab-e-Khas (Regal Splendour) which is 2.5 hours session of steam, scrub, massage with a detox drink in between and after some fresh cut fruits and juice. It was good. By the time we finished we missed the palace tour which starts at 5 PM. Then we just roamed around the property enjoying the peacocks, there were almost 100 of them. Then we headed to the restaurant for the dinner. This time they recommended for a open door seating and we were happy to be seated there. Finally I wanted to taste the biryani which I missed it, so I ordered for the Hyderabadi Lamb Biryani and Sur ordered Chilli Garlic Naan with kofta curry. It was super delicious, ordered the tiramisu and I couldn’t have it as it was too sweet for my palate and local Rasmalai dish recommended by the staff which we both enjoyed. Then we rested in the royal suite, we were too tempted to extend then we realized we had work and we needed to be in Bangalore on Monday. So we just dozed off.

Day 6: Woke up to the noise of the birds and peacocks and then headed for the breakfast. I recommended Sur to try the Pesarattu (Dosa with Green Gram batter), even though I have tasted enough number of times while living in Andhra, here it was so thin and delicious and with 4 different chutneys (coconut, pineapple, tomato and garlic) it made all the more interesting. I wanted to try a local dish which I have not tried so the staff recommended paya and kheema paratha, even though it was good I regretted it because I am not a paratha fan so instead would have loved the dosa/idli better. As we entered the room we saw the staff brought a cake to say good bye but unfortunately we couldn’t even taste as we just came out from breakfast and we could have carried it for our journey but we didn’t have anything to carry. I did feel sorry that we couldn’t taste the chocolate cake but we completely appreciate the love and effort that went into and the gesture. While we checked out we also got a album stand with our photo with the horse carriage which they had taken the precious day. That was a sweet surprise. We just wished we had another night to spend, however if you are in Hyderabad please make sure to experience this Royal experience ad its worth every penny. We would recommend, at least minimum 2-3 nights to experience such beautiful experience.

With such beautiful experience we started our long journey back, since we didn’t stop for lunch, we could reach within 7.30 hours and during the last leg, we just stopped for a quick tea break in Apoorva Multi Cuisine Restaurant and it was good. Then we headed back home and finally we reached home sweet home after a long drive.

First credit is to our travel partner Mr. Inayath and the Sailani team for helping us with the trip

Then to the city tour guide Mr. Srinu, he was very helpful and would recommend for others. I have shared already his contact details.

Then Mr. Sashi, the driver who took us around and patiently been taking us to places wherever we needed to.

Sitara Team for their hospitality and support

Thanks to Trip Advisor through whom we booked the full day city tour and then hi tea at Taj. Everything was excellent.

Last but not the least to the Taj Falaknuma team, each time we stay in Taj, the respect and love for this group increases multifold. It was excellent in every sense, from the security, reception, F&B staff to each and everyone working there. Big kudos and thank you for giving us such a beautiful experience.

Whether its Telangana/Andhra, for me it’s always Andhra as I cannot differentiate these two, visiting this state always brings back old memories and it still is a 2nd home for me. I would always cherish the warmth and love of the people from this state always.

Love you and Keep smiling, Until we meet next time…………..

 

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