About Uzbekistan:
Uzbekistan, a Central Asian gem and former Soviet republic, is known for its stunning mosques, grand mausoleums, and historical cities that formed a major part of the ancient Silk Road — the legendary trade route linking China to the Mediterranean. With cities like Samarkand and Bukhara Uzbekistan offers an enchanting blend of history, culture, and architecture.
Visa Information:
Uzbekistan offers an easy e-visa process, which you can apply for through https://e-visa.gov.uz/main.
- Processing Time: 3–6 business days.
- Name Tip: If your full name includes a middle name, it’s best not to enter it when applying for the visa. The system doesn’t capture middle names, and this mismatch can cause issues during airline check-ins, especially if ground staff are unfamiliar with Uzbek visa formats. To be safe, split your full name into just First Name and Last Name.
Day 1 – Arrival in Tashkent
Back on the road with Santosh from Exotic Expeditions! As always, I combined the trip with a few business meetings before joining the group. I flew out from Chennai, transiting through New Delhi, where Sur and Vijay joined me. Eventually, the three of us landed in Tashkent, all set to explore Uzbekistan.
Santosh had already briefed us about potential issues with name mismatches on the Uzbek e-visa, especially with Indigo staff. Thankfully, everything went smoothly for me — no issues either in Chennai or Delhi. However, I heard from the group that in Bangalore, Indigo staff initially raised concerns before finally allowing one of our fellow travelers to board.
Day 2 – Exploring Tashkent & Settling In
We landed early morning in Tashkent, and the arrival process was quite smooth — thanks to the early hour, the airport was relatively quiet. After waiting for a few more group members to arrive, we headed to our hotel: Tashkent Avant Wellness. It was a decent property, though the service left a bit to be desired.
There were no towels or bed sheets — just a mattress and pillow without covers. When we requested them, we were given use-and-throw towels. Initially, we thought it was just our room, but it turned out everyone had the same experience. Housekeeping also didn’t show up even after we stepped out, and we later found out that in some properties here, cleaning happens only once every 2–3 days. That said, the rooms were reasonably clean to begin with.
Our travel group was a wonderful mix of people from different places:
- Santosh (the organizer),
- Sur, Vijay, and Gita from Bangalore
- Jacky from Mumbai
- Sayan from Kolkata
- Poornima from Singapore
- Shruthi & Srihari from UAE
- Reena & Darshana (a mother-daughter duo) from Kerala
- Madhvi from Chandigarh
- Bhaskar and myself from Chennai
Since there was no fixed itinerary for the day, a few of us decided to explore the city and do some shopping. Uber doesn’t work here, so we used the Yandex Go app. It took a while to verify due to SMS delays, but it worked quite well for getting around once set up.
Our first stop was Chorsu Bazaar, a massive and lively market ideal for street shopping. While the gold shops were plenty and eye-catching, we gravitated toward the vibrant stalls selling nuts and herbal teas. The hazelnuts and pecans were naturally sweet, and the pistachios were impossible to resist. A definite highlight was the freshly pressed pomegranate juice, sold in bottles at almost every corner — super refreshing and perfect for a quick boost.
For lunch, we headed to the famous Besh Qozon Pilaf Centre, known for its lamb pilaf. The meat was beautifully tender, falling off the bone, but the rice was undercooked by our standards. We later realized that’s the traditional way it’s served here. Eventually, we just ordered an extra plate and focused on the meat.
After lunch, we strolled over to the Holy Dormition Cathedral, also known as the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin. It’s been the Russian Orthodox cathedral of Tashkent since 1945. Originally built in 1871, it was expanded in the 1990s, and its bell tower was reconstructed in 2010. My personal highlight was seeing tulips in full bloom all around the area — absolutely stunning!
Photography isn’t allowed inside the church, and women must cover their heads — a hat, shawl, or scarf will do just fine.
On our way back, we stopped at Lacrema Ristorante for a quick coffee break. They had some good mocktails, but just a heads-up: the cappuccinos here are served lukewarm across the country. If you like your coffee hot, it’s better to go for a black coffee, which comes piping hot.
We then visited Amir Temur square, where I had a business meeting scheduled closeby. There was a bit of panic when Sur realized he’d left his phone in the cab — but thankfully, we were able to call the driver, who returned it after 20 minutes. Since it was a one-way ride, it took a bit of coordination, but all ended well. Big relief!
My meeting was with Ms. Victoria at Café 1991, a cozy and trendy spot tucked away in the city. She thoughtfully ordered a variety of local dishes like kebabs for me to try. But we got so engrossed in our conversation that I barely tasted anything at the time — except for a cup of orange herbal tea, which was just what I needed in the chilly weather. I did manage to sample a few of the dishes later on, and they were absolutely worth the wait.
After the meeting, I caught up with Sur and Vijay, who were waiting for me at Mr. Smokey, a sheesha lounge. Unfortunately, the experience didn’t quite live up to expectations — especially after the exceptional sheesha I’d enjoyed recently in Ethiopia. It felt a bit underwhelming in comparison.
We finally headed back to the hotel and crashed for the night. A long, slightly chilly, but incredibly eventful day!
Day 3 – Off to Samarkand, the Jewel of the Silk Road
After a quick breakfast, we headed to the railway station to catch the high-speed train to Samarkand, one of the most iconic hubs of the ancient Silk Road. It was exciting to experience the Uzbekistan Railways firsthand. The journey from Tashkent to Samarkand took about 3.5 hours, and the train ride itself was smooth and comfortable.
Once we arrived, we checked into the Samarabonu Hotel (Samarabonu Mehmonxonasi) , which turned out to be a lovely property. It had a charming garden in the front, and we spent a good amount of time just relaxing there and soaking in the peaceful atmosphere.
Throughout the trip, we found ourselves enjoying the traditional Uzbek flatbread — served at almost every dining place — and the warm Uzbek hospitality that came with it.
For lunch, we dined at Asadbek Lazzat, where we tried Lagman soup (a noodle and lentil-based broth) and meatball soup, both served with bread. The meal was hearty and comforting. After that, we took a leisurely walk around Registan Square, picked up some snacks, and headed back to the hotel to rest.
We did place an order for dinner later in the evening, but it took forever to arrive. After waiting for a while, we ended up canceling it — though ironically, it showed up after two hours. At that point, we were too tired, so we called it a night and crashed.
Day 4 – A Walk Through Time in Samarkand
After a quick breakfast, we began our day with our tour Guide Ms. Zara, to visit to Gur-e-Amir, the mausoleum of Amir Temur (Tamerlane), the great Turkic conqueror. The white structures crowned with bluish domes are stunning from the outside, but the real magic begins once you step in — the interiors glisten in gold, radiating a royal warmth.
One interesting tale we heard was about a bowl used for pomegranate juice — legend has it that the amount of juice left behind indicated how many soldiers didn’t return from battle. This story made me appreciate the popularity of pomegranate juice across Uzbekistan — and how it’s revered for its health benefits.
Amir Temur’s legacy left a significant mark on architecture, and later influenced Mughal tombs like Humayun’s Tomb in Delhi, the Gardens of Babur in Kabul, and even the Taj Mahal in Agra. Interestingly, though he hailed from another city, he was buried in Samarkand because it was snowing in his hometown at the time of his death. His tomb bears a chilling inscription: “Do not disturb me or you will unleash war.” When Stalin exhumed his body for verification in Russia, World War II began shortly after. Once his body was reburied, the war ended — a tale that left us stunned.
We then walked through the majestic Registan Square, once a thriving marketplace and educational center. During Temur’s reign, the system was so refined that every two students had a dedicated teacher, and they lived in dorms above the classrooms. Today, those same buildings house charming souvenir shops — a blend of old and new.
The Registan ensemble also honors Alisher Navoi, a renowned educator. I learned about the three-circle in the coin symbol which signified Temur’s conquests across Asia, Africa, and Europe. Another gem was discovering the mulberry trees, whose bark is used to make special paper on which the Quran is printed. That paper is said to last for 400 years and can be washed and reused.
We visited the Mirzo Ulugbek Madrasa, named after Temur’s grandson, who was deeply into astronomy and peaceful governance. We also saw a caravanserai, an 11th-century rest stop for Silk Road travelers. Though now mostly ruins, its stone structures still echo the voices of history.
An interesting detail — the long turbans worn by men also served a somber purpose: if someone died during their journey, it could be used to wrap their body. Clothing also revealed social cues — for instance, women wore bright scarves if they were unmarried, and darker ones if they were older.
Later, we visited the Hazrat Khizr Mosque, located on a hill opposite the Shah-i-Zinda complex. In 2018, this became the site of the mausoleum of Islam Karimov, Uzbekistan’s first president who led the country to independence from the USSR. The mosque is known as the “Town of the Dead,” but it felt more like a celebration of culture and legacy.
Next, we explored the Shakhi Zinda Ensemble,and We also visited the Kusam Ibn Abbas Complex, dedicated to the first Islamic missionary in the region.
We then visited the Bibi-Khanym Mosque, built by Amir Temur for his favorite wife. She was the key to his rise — as he came from a regular family, he couldn’t have become king without a royal bloodline or relation by marriage. Interestingly, there were madrasas for girls even back then — a surprisingly progressive move for the time.
During construction, they aimed to build one of the largest mosques of the era, and for that, 100 elephants were brought in from India. Unfortunately, five died en route, and in the rush to complete the structure, engineering flaws crept in. Over time, the mosque couldn’t withstand the elements and partially collapsed — a reminder that even the grandest visions need time and care.
As the Silk Road shifted routes, Samarkand gradually lost its wealth and prominence — a stark reminder of how deeply trade influences the fate of cities.
Later that day, we dined at the iconic Samarkand Restaurant, one of the city’s oldest and most beautiful dining spots. The food was absolutely delicious, and while the service was a bit slow, the ambiance made it well worth the wait.
Our final stop for the day was the Siyob Dehqon Bozori, the local market. Sadly, most of it was closed, with only a few pavement stalls open. Still, we managed to pick up some snacks for the next day’s road trip, especially important since vegetarian options were limited for some of our fellow travelers.
We spent the rest of the evening unwinding at the Samarabonu Hotel, chatting under the stars in the garden, before finally calling it a night.
Day 5 – Into the Heart of Nuratau: Homestays, Hills, and Honest Smiles
We had a quick breakfast and set off for the Nuratau Mountains, home to Tajik communities, a fascinating mix of Turkish and Uzbek descent. The drive itself was scenic, and we made a quick stop at a lovely Tolga café for some hot coffee and somsa (local-style samosas) — simple, comforting, and perfect for the road.
By lunchtime, we arrived at Nasiba Restaurant, where we had a hearty meal — a spread of pickled vegetables, refreshing chaas (buttermilk), and a warm bowl of soup. Just as we were ready to leave, we realized that Bhaskar had forgotten his phone at a nearby supermarket. Thankfully, one of the other cars went back to retrieve it, so we waited — which gave me the perfect excuse to get some work calls done.
As I took those calls, I found myself surrounded by wide open plains dotted with lambs grazing and bird nests clearly visible among the bare branches — it’s early spring, so most trees had flowers but no leaves, making the nests pop against the landscape. It was surprisingly calming and one of those little joys that photos can never truly capture.
Eventually, we reached our home stay in Musobarakonur. It was beautiful in its rustic simplicity, but the only downside was that there were just two shared toilets for four dorms — about 20 people in total. But this was all part of the “experiential” vibe, and once I shifted focus, it didn’t bother me much.
In the evening, we went for a short hike through orchards of cherry, almond, apricot, apple, and berry trees — all blooming, with flowers in full display but no leaves yet. We entered the Nuratau Nature Reserve, a protected area known for Sverdlov’s argali (a rare wild sheep) and ancient walnut forests. We even spotted the argali near the gate — though they were small and skittish, quickly scampering away as we approached. It was a fantastic place for photographs, especially with the golden light of sunset.
We returned to the homestay just as it started getting dark. Later, we walked around the village, and to our surprise, we became local celebrities — older men came up and asked for photographs with us, which we happily posed for. There was something incredibly heartwarming about the whole interaction.
Back at the homestay, we warmed up with a strong cup of coffee, just what we needed to fight off the cold. Dinner was a lovely spread of home-cooked dishes, and after that, while others rested, I returned to my work calls — juggling the quiet of the countryside with my responsibilities.
I must add — the people here were just so genuinely kind, and yes, the men were definitely more handsome than average! Their smiles could melt anyone, and that seemed to be true across the entire country — warm, welcoming, and honest.
Day 6 – Early Starts, Ceramics, and Catching Up in Bukhara
Sleep was scarce — I barely managed an hour post-work, as I had to wake up early to grab a shower before the crowd woke up. But it was worth it. For me, starting the day fresh always matters, no matter how little rest I get.
After a quick breakfast, we bid farewell to our home stay and began our journey to Bukhara, with a stopover at Gijduvan, a small town known for its traditional ceramic pottery. We visited a pottery workshop, and it was truly enriching to learn about this beautiful craft that has been passed down through generations. Seeing the intricate process firsthand gave me a whole new appreciation for the art.
We finally reached our hotel — Hotel Shams, located right on the main road. The hotel itself was decent, but there was no elevator, and climbing three stories with heavy luggage wasn’t fun at all. While the hotel staff did assist, I couldn’t help but wonder how they manage this every day — not easy on them either.
While I caught up on some work, Shruthi and Srihari went out and got some food from an Indian restaurant, which we all enjoyed together later. Our room quickly turned into the evening hangout spot — a little party of sorts, with drinks, food, and plenty of laughter and old stories being shared.
That cozy catch-up session was the perfect way to end a long travel day. Eventually, we all crashed for the night, tired but content.
Day 7 – Bukhara’s Heritage and Heartfelt Encounters
After a quick breakfast, we set off with our guide, Ms. Niso, to explore Ismail Samani Mausoleum, located within a vast, serene park. It was fascinating to walk through layers of history — especially learning how Bukhara rose to prominence as the capital after the death of Nasser. The Ismail Samani Maqbarasi is one of the oldest monuments in the region and a symbol of early Islamic architecture.
We noticed that the stork is a national symbol for Uzbeks. Though many have left due to drought, one stork nest remains, standing as a poignant reminder of Bukhara’s golden days. At Chashma Ayub, we heard the legend of a prophet striking the ground with his staff to summon water — a touching story, especially as we later read about the Aral Sea crisis and the broader water-related challenges the region faces.
We found some of the most beautiful stork souvenirs here — truly one-of-a-kind pieces. The area itself was huge, almost like a small township with souvenir shops, restaurants, and scenic spots near the waterfront. We had lunch by the water, soaking in the view and the calm vibe.
Post-lunch, we strolled around with Ms. Niso, who patiently helped us choose gifts and souvenirs to take home. One of the most heartwarming moments of the day was how locals would stop us, ask where we were from, and light up when we said “India.” They’d respond joyfully with “Hindustan!” and excitedly ask for photos with us. That level of warmth was unexpected — we genuinely felt like celebrities, and it was beautiful.
Bukhara, having long been under Persian influence, wears that heritage proudly. We visited the Ark Fortress, once the seat of power where government meetings and coronations took place. Today, it serves more like a souvenir hub, yet the grandeur still lingers.
We also stopped by Nodir Devonbegi Madrasah, another architectural gem with ornate blue tile work, and explored the caravanserai ruins, imagining what those bustling merchant inns must have been like during the Silk Road era.
Afterward, we picked up dinner from an Indian restaurant, and as usual, our room became the hangout zone. We all huddled in, shared food, swapped stories, and eventually crashed for the night, content and a little emotional — knowing this was the final leg of an unforgettable journey.
Day 8 – A High-Speed Goodbye to Bukhara
After a quick breakfast, it was time to bid farewell to Bukhara and catch the bullet train to Tashkent. The journey took around 4.5 hours, and we arrived in the capital by evening. Our stay for the night was at Hotel Art Plaza, a comfortable, centrally located hotel.
Next door, we discovered Dudek, a high-end restaurant known for its outstanding food and cocktails. Truly one of the culinary highlights of the trip! While the food was fantastic, we were slightly surprised by the gruff demeanor of the waiters — a stark contrast to the warmth we experienced throughout Uzbekistan. Perhaps they were just having a long day. Regardless, we chose to focus on the flavors, enjoyed our meal, and ended the night on a high note.
Day 9 – Souvenirs, Goodbyes, and Gratitude
Our final morning in Tashkent began with a quick breakfast. Since our flight was in the evening, we packed and kept one room to freshen up later. We spent the day visiting Tashkent Mall, where we picked up a few project-related documents from Perfume Gallery. Lunch at the mall’s food court was casual and convenient.
One emotional moment was bidding goodbye to Santosh, who was headed off for his next adventure in Kazakhstan. We returned to the hotel, freshened up, and headed to the airport for our journey back.
I had to say goodbye to Sur and Vijay at the Delhi airport, as everyone began parting ways for their respective final destinations. It marked the end of a shared chapter filled with memories, laughter, stories, and soulful experiences.
Day 10 – Homeward Bound
Finally, I caught my flight to Chennai and made my way home. While unpacking my bags, I found myself replaying images of the mausoleums, museums, and the vast open landscapes — all still etched vividly in my mind.
This trip was unique. For the first time, all 14 of us began the journey as strangers or acquaintances, but not all ended up as friends — which is perfectly okay. Being adults, we sometimes carry our differences, and travel has a way of bringing them to light. At one point, it felt like we were a group of 7 within 14, with the rest forming their own smaller circles.
But this too was a learning experience — a reminder that every journey teaches us something about others and ourselves. Sometimes, all it takes is a little more time, patience, and openness for people to truly come together.
Rahmat… Thank you, Uzbekistan, for the memories, the warmth, the culture, and the life lessons.