Jani Jermans – Travel Diaries

August 26, 2023

Nepal – The Natural Wonder

Filed under: International Travel — jani @ 10:37 pm

About Nepal: Nepal, officially known as the Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal, is a landlocked nation located in South Asia. While its main region lies in the Himalayas, it also encompasses parts of the Indo-Gangetic Plain.

For Indian nationals, traveling to Nepal doesn’t require a visa; carrying a government ID card suffices. However, if you’re flying, it’s advisable to carry your passport.

Initially, I had some reservations about traveling to Nepal due to the frequent news about air crashes. However, my actual travel experience turned out to be quite different. In fact, Nepal provided me with one of the best air travel experiences I’ve had.

Day 1: Embarked on my journey to Nepal, I was heading to attend a PATA event. The flight was scheduled for the evening, and I had a simple wish – to arrive before nightfall, given my concerns about air crashes in a country encompassed by towering mountains. This trip marked a personal adventure for me since I typically didn’t feel at ease traveling alone.

Despite a one-hour delay in the flight’s departure, the overall experience was quite smooth once we touched down. This time, I was on a Nepal Airlines flight, and surprisingly, it turned out to be a positive experience. Upon landing in the evening, I swiftly completed the immigration formalities and was warmly greeted by PATA representatives. They escorted me to my accommodation for the trip, the Manaslu Deluxe Heritage & Boutique Hotel. The hotel was a true embodiment of heritage and provided a unique ambiance. After checking into my room, I promptly succumbed to fatigue and dozed off.

Day 2: I had to wake up promptly and hurry to catch the flight bound for Pokhara, where the PATA event was scheduled to take place. After a quick bite to eat, I set off. Upon reaching the airport, the check-in process took only about 10-15 minutes, and soon I found myself waiting to board the flight. All my previous apprehensions about flying in Nepal dissipated as the airport experiences were surprisingly smooth.

The flight to Pokhara was brief, and upon landing, the PATA team was there to pick us up. They transported us to Hotel Pokhara Grande, the venue of the event. During this time, I had the pleasure of meeting Ms. Sophy, a Luxury Travel Consultant based in New York, who was also attending the conference. We connected instantly and struck up a conversation. Although the event had already begun by the time we arrived in the afternoon, we patiently waited for our rooms to be allocated. As we got to know each other better, I gained a new friend for life. Eventually, our rooms were assigned in a separate block, conveniently located next to each other. Later she had to change the room and she got allocated in the main building itself.

After freshening up, we joined the conference. The sessions were incredibly productive, focusing on the revival of the travel industry post-Covid. The discussions also delved into sustainable travel, further enriching our insights. I also had the opportunity to interact with students aspiring to enter the travel profession. Following a lunch break, we engaged in one-on-one meetings with various travel partners.  During these interactions, I also met Mr. Boris, an expert in Croatia Travel based in New York, and Ms. Pragya Ghimire from the Nepal Tourism Board.

Later, I had a tea meeting with Mr. TP Bhusal from the Nepal Tourism Board’s Media team before diving into some work. As the evening approached, we decided to dine at Moondance Restaurant & Bar, a recommendation from Boris. The restaurant had a fantastic ambiance, and while the food was delightful, the cocktails left a bit to be desired. We had a wonderful time, and one amusing incident involved Pragya making creative use of the mint growing near the bar entrance, which resulted in shared laughter among us. Eventually, we retreated to our respective rooms and called it a night.

Day 3: Mr. Narayan and his team at Fishtail Tours & Travels organized a sunrise tour that required us to rise at 4 AM – the most challenging part of the excursion. As we awoke, we were all picked up from our respective hotels and proceeded to the Sarangot Top Station for a cable car ride that would take us to the Sarangot View Point. The cable car journey offered stunning views while crossing the Fewa Lake, leading us to a tower with an incredible vantage point to witness the sunrise against the backdrop of the Annapurna Mountain range. The experience of observing the sunrise was simply awe-inspiring.

After returning to the hotel, we enjoyed our breakfast and embarked on a sightseeing itinerary arranged by the Nepal Tourism Board. Our first destination was the Shiva Temple at Pumdikot, a hill station near Pokhara. This locale features a viewpoint perched at an altitude of 1,500 meters above sea level and boasts the second tallest statue of Shiva in Nepal. We traversed through corn fields and tackled uphill slopes, making the journey quite memorable.

Subsequently, we proceeded to the World Peace Pagoda (Shanti Stupa). This pagoda serves as a symbol of peace and holds significance for its location at a height of 1,100 meters on the Anadu Hill. Constructed on September 12, 1973. The Shanti Stupa houses relics of Buddha and is one of the two peace pagodas in Nepal – the other being in Lumbini, the birthplace of Buddha. The view from Shanti Stupa encompassed the stunning Annapurna range, the city of Pokhara, and the serene Fewa Lake.

Our journey continued to Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave, a cave temple situated in Pokhara. The cave’s environment can be slightly overwhelming due to the reduced oxygen levels inside. Subsequently, we visited Devi’s Fall, where the cascading water forms a tunnel upon reaching the base. This tunnel stretches approximately 500 feet in length and is situated 100 feet below ground level. Notably, the water from Devi’s Fall flows through the cave of Gupteshwor Mahadev.

I had initially intended to partake in the Annapurna helicopter ride, but unfortunately, we didn’t gather enough participants to make it feasible. As a result, I had to cancel my plans for that particular activity.

Following our sightseeing adventures, we enjoyed lunch at the restaurant close to the Fewa Lake and later indulged in a boat ride across the serene waters. A few of us took turns pedaling the boat, which turned out to be quite a tiring task. Upon returning to the hotel, we retired for the night. As I had covered most of the sightseeing activities in Pokhara, I spontaneously decided to follow Mr. Narayan’s recommendation and booked a trip to Chitwan for the next day. I rearranged my plans accordingly, including cancelling an extra night’s stay in Pokhara, before finally settling in for the night.

Day 4: After a relaxing breakfast, my driver cum guide arrived to pick me up. I completed the check-out process at the hotel and headed towards the Tibetan Settlement near Hemja. As we journeyed, we crossed the Dhoodh Ganga River, witnessing its pristine white waters. Arriving at the Tibetan Monastery, I offered a prayer and then decided to experience some Tibetan flavors at Kelsang restaurant, where I enjoyed a cup of tea.

Subsequently, my driver dropped me off at the airport, and I boarded a flight to Chitwan. Upon landing at Bharatpur Airport, I was warmly received by the hotel staff, and we embarked on a half-hour drive to reach the Landmark Forest Park. This charming hotel is nestled within the Chitwan National Park, surrounded by lush greenery, abundant birdlife, and a serene garden that created a refreshing atmosphere. This marked the first time I truly relished being alone, immersing myself in the tranquility and fresh air of nature.

Following lunch, I embarked on a village walk. Accompanied by a forest guide, I had the option to choose from activities such as an elephant ride, a boat ride on the Budi Bubhati river, or a village walk. Opting for the latter, I thoroughly enjoyed the stroll through the village. We ventured near the river, where the lively symphony of bird calls greeted us. Among the bird species we encountered were the plover which was making quite a lot of noise, hornbill, drongo, egret, green bee-eater, Bulbul, Stork, Myna, and Peafowl. While the guide suggested waiting for the sunset, I chose to spend some peaceful moments by the river before making my way back.

In the evening, visited Sauraha Tharo village, a museum that beautifully showcases the unique lifestyle of the Tharo people. The Tharo community has inhabited the forests of the Chitwan district for generations, maintaining deep economic, spiritual, and cultural connections with the forest ecosystem. During our visit, we were treated to a captivating cultural program that included performances such as the mesmerizing fire dance, the spirited warrior dance, the graceful Sakhiya dance, the energetic Lathi Nach (Stick Dance), and even a traditional funeral dance.

Amidst the vibrant performances, we had the opportunity to savor one of their delicacies – Ghongi, which is nothing but snail. Ghongi is known for its high protein content and is believed to contribute to the faster healing of wounds and fractures. I thoroughly enjoyed this unique culinary experience and was captivated by the authenticity and charm of the cultural program. After the eventful evening, we returned to the hotel, where I retired to my room, carrying with me a sense of contentment and fond memories of the day’s enriching experiences.

Day 5: The next day began early as I had an exciting morning safari planned at Chitwan National Park. To access the park, we had to cross the Rapti River by canoe, a thrilling experience given the river’s population of crocodiles. The Jungle Safari Lodge team organized the safari, and while waiting to cross the river, we caught glimpses of elephants from a distance. Once we safely crossed the river, we embarked on our safari within Chitwan National Park.

Although our animal sightings during the safari were limited to a bear, hippopotamus, and some monkeys, the incredible variety of bird species we encountered more than compensated for the lack of larger animals. We had the pleasure of observing a variety of birds such as the Common Iora, Drongo, Magpie, chestnut headed bee-eater, Myna, Egret, Woodpecker, Kingfisher, Koel, Stonechat bird, Parakeet, Plover, Stork, and Goose, among many others. The highlight of the safari was undoubtedly the visit to the Gharial Breeding Centre. Gharials are rare and endangered fish-eating crocodiles, and the center plays a crucial role in their conservation. In the wild, the survival rate of Gharial eggs is less than two percent due to predators and human interference. However, at the center, they collect and hatch the eggs in captivity, contributing significantly to their protection.

After an enriching safari experience, we took a brief break at the Gharial Breeding Centre to enjoy our packed breakfast and a cup of coffee from a small stall. With the safari completed, it was time for me to bid farewell to Chitwan and head back to the airport. One thing I began to appreciate about Nepal was the efficiency of its airports. Unlike spending hours waiting at airports, in Nepal, it’s sufficient to arrive just 5-10 minutes before departure due to the convenience of domestic air travel. The hilly terrain limits land transport options, making air travel the preferred mode of transportation within the country.

Upon reaching Kathmandu, I was promptly picked up and taken to the Malla Hotel, where I checked in and settled in for a restful night’s sleep.

Day 6: I had an early start for the Everest Express flight, a mountain flight experience offered by Yeti Airlines. As I entered the airport, I unexpectedly ran into Sophy, which was a pleasant surprise. We had a quick catch-up and then proceeded to experience the same mountain flight but through different airlines. The flight provided a breathtaking view of the Himalayan range, taking us past the Langtang Range, Eastern Himalayas, Gauri Shankar, Chhoba Bhamare Range, Melungste, and Mount Everest, among other ranges.

After returning from the flight, I had a quick breakfast and then embarked on a day of sightseeing. Our first stop was Bouddha Stupa, also known as Boudhanath, a remarkable stupa in Kathmandu, Nepal. Its enormous mandala structure makes it one of the largest spherical stupas globally. Our guide explained the significance of the prayers, the history, and the symbolism of the prayer flags adorning the stupa. Boudha Stupa has been a place of prayer and rest for Tibetan merchants for centuries. Following the Tibetan uprising in 1959, numerous Tibetan refugees resettled around Boudhanath, resulting in the construction of over 50 gompas (Buddhist monasteries) in the vicinity.

We then visited a Thangka painting workshop, where I learned about and admired the intricate Tibetan Buddhist paintings created on cotton or silk appliqué. Moving on, we reached Dattatreya Square in Bhaktapur, one of the most enchanting squares with its temples, ponds, and museums. It is renowned for its historical and cultural significance, hosting temples like Dattatreya, Bhimsen, and Laxmi Narayan, as well as the wood carving museum and the peacock window.

We had lunch at a local shop recommended by our driver, and then visited a rice paper-making shop where paper is crafted from Lokta bark pulp found only in the Himalayan region. I picked up a diary as a souvenir before heading to Changu Narayan temple. This ancient Hindu temple is situated atop a hill and is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. It is considered one of the oldest temples in Nepal. Nearby, the Changunarayan Change Museum provided insights into the lives of the people of the region in the past.

Later, I caught up with Sophy for dinner at the hotel she was staying which was 15-30 minutes away from Malla. It was good to catch up with her and other few friends joined as well. Then I walked back to the hotel around 11:45 PM. The empty streets were a bit unsettling for me, as I’m not used to being out alone at such hours. Despite the unease, I returned to my room and settled in for the night.

Day 7: After a hearty breakfast, I embarked on a day of exploration. My first destination was Swoyambhu Mahachaitya, an ancient religious complex perched atop a hill in the Kathmandu Valley. The Tibetan name for this site translates to ‘Sublime Trees’, which aptly describes the diverse variety of trees that adorn the hill. From there, I proceeded to Bhaktapur Durbar Square, a former royal palace complex that once housed the Malla kings of Nepal and later the kings of the Kingdom of Bhaktapur.

For lunch, I had the pleasure of enjoying a local thali, a traditional Nepali meal known for its variety of flavors and dishes. Following the satisfying meal, I continued my journey to The Narayanhiti Palace Museum, a public museum that was established in 2008 within the former Narayanhiti Palace, following Nepal’s revolutionary events in 2006.

Next on my itinerary was a visit to Kathmandu Durbar Square, an esteemed UNESCO World Heritage Site and a site of immense historical and cultural significance in Kathmandu. Within this square stands the Kumari Ghar, the residence of the Kumari Devi, believed to be the living incarnation of the Hindu warrior goddess Taleju or the tantric goddess Vajradevi. The selection process for the Kumari is steeped in unique rituals and tests.

After this, I made my way to the revered Pashupatinath Temple, dedicated to Lord Pashupati and located near the Bagmati River. This temple is not only one of the oldest but also one of the largest in the world. Its cultural and spiritual importance led to its classification as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979. Adjacent to the temple is an open cremation area.

Continuing my exploration, I ventured to Kirtipur, an ancient city in the Kathmandu Valley. The local Newar population contributes to the vibrant heritage of this place. I had the delightful opportunity to savor a Khaaja set meal at Newa Lahan, a local eatery, while rain added to the ambiance. The meal consisted of beaten rice, soya beans, and leafy vegetables, and it was a truly authentic and memorable experience.

Later, I visited Chandragiri hills, a journey that required a cable car ride. The ascent provided breathtaking views of hills and dense forests, although the altitude did leave me a bit dizzy. I took my time to navigate the climb to the hill and enjoyed the breathtaking view. Afterward, I made my way back to the hotel and spent some time in Thamel for a little shopping before retiring for the night before making sure to arrange the sightseeing for Lumbini as that got added at the last minute.

Day 8: I dedicated a day to explore Lumbini, a destination that was added to my itinerary at the last minute. Being the birthplace of Buddha, I couldn’t leave Nepal without visiting this significant pilgrimage site. Despite reaching the airport only 15 minutes before the flight departure, I managed to reach Lumbini smoothly.

Lumbini holds immense importance in Buddhist tradition, as it is believed to be the place where Queen Maya gave birth to Siddhartha Gautama around 566 BCE. The tranquil surroundings of Lumbini are adorned with numerous peace pagodas built by different countries. We visited the World Peace Pagoda, where we also had the chance to witness saras cranes near the river. These majestic cranes were a rare sight due to the summer season, and although their numbers were limited, it was a unique experience.

Exploring further, we arrived at Lumbini Garden, where we encountered the Eternal Flame. This flame was established in 1986 to commemorate the International Year of Peace and was brought from the United States of America to symbolize global harmony. As we approached the Maya Devi Temple, we encountered a charming statue of Buddha as a young boy, a depiction I had never seen before and found utterly endearing. Our journey led us to the birth site of Buddha, and we subsequently made our way back. We paused for a local thali meal before I was dropped off at the airport.

Despite arriving at the airport (Bhairahawa) early, the Buddha Air staff kindly accommodated my situation and allowed me to board the earliest available flight back to Kathmandu. Once back in the city, I arranged a meeting with one of the travel partners, enjoyed a quick dinner, and then retired for the night.

Day 9: After a leisurely breakfast, I packed my bags, a task that took a bit of time, and made my way to the airport. The journey was smooth, and I boarded the flight back to Bangalore. This trip marked my first solo adventure where I had the opportunity to explore various places on my own, aided by the guidance of the driver and guide, and to make some incredible new friends along the way.

I want to extend a special note of gratitude to Buddha Air, whose last-minute bookings allowed me to maximize my exploration despite the constraints of time. I was pleasantly surprised by the efficiency of the domestic airports, where I could save a significant amount of time by not having to wait around unnecessarily. Air travel, being the safest option in this region with its towering mountain ranges, is the primary means of transportation.

In Nepal’s domestic airports, there’s no need to arrive hours in advance. Just being there 10-15 minutes before departure is sufficient. This flexibility turned out to be quite helpful, such as when I was able to catch an earlier flight in Lumbini without any hassle.

As my beautiful and personally liberating journey came to an end, I return home with newfound confidence and cherished memories. While this adventure concludes, I eagerly look forward to the next one in a different country. Until then, take care and farewell…

 

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