Jani Jermans – Travel Diaries

November 14, 2023

Saudi Arabia – A Journey Through the Land of the Holy Mosques

Filed under: International Travel — jani @ 8:06 am

About Saudi Arabia: Saudi Arabia, officially known as the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia (KSA), is a nation situated in West Asia. It stands as the largest country in the Middle East and boasts coastlines along the Red Sea and the Persian Gulf. Its landscape is predominantly composed of arid deserts, lowlands, steppes, and mountainous regions. Riyadh serves as both the capital and the largest city in the country. Notably, Saudi Arabia is home to two of Islam’s holiest cities: Mecca and Medina.

Visa Process: Applying for a visa to Saudi Arabia has become more convenient, particularly for those with a valid US visa and previous visits to the United States. The option of obtaining an E-visa through the Ministry of Foreign Affairs (MOFA) website involves a streamlined online payment process and includes the acquisition of mandatory travel insurance, making the overall experience prompt and efficient.

Day 1: Setting Out on the Journey

My journey to Saudi Arabia commenced with a flight from Bangalore, India. There were no direct flights to Riyadh, so I opted for a connecting flight via Mumbai. This journey also marked my first experience flying with Air India following the Tata Group’s takeover of the airline.

To my surprise, the flight with Air India left much to be desired in terms of service quality, giving the impression of a low-cost carrier (LCC). While the food provided was decent, the packaging resembled what you might expect from street vendors. Despite the international nature of the flight, there was a noticeable absence of in-flight entertainment, making the 4.30-hour flight in economy class less enjoyable.

Unfortunately, it became apparent that Air India would not be my preferred airline for future travel. However, during the flight from Mumbai to Riyadh, I had the opportunity to engage in a conversation with two fellow Indian passengers who were working in Saudi Arabia. This brief chat served as a welcome distraction from the airline’s shortcomings and was a reminder of how travel often brings unexpected interactions and connections with fellow travelers.

Arrival in Riyadh: Upon landing in Riyadh, I encountered a relatively smooth immigration and security process. Stepping out of the airport, I found a line of taxis waiting to take passengers to their respective destinations. The Middle East has always felt safe to me, and I had no reservations about taking a cab. The fare was reasonable, and I was soon on my way to Haven Plaza on Al Olaya Street.

My arrival in Riyadh occurred during the evening, and it quickly became apparent that men rarely initiate conversations with women in this country. The atmosphere was reserved and modest, underlining the differences in social interactions compared to what I was accustomed to.

Upon arriving at my accommodation, I promptly checked in and decided to order a sandwich to satisfy my hunger. Unfortunately, the sandwich I received turned out to be rather dry and disappointing in terms of flavor and quality, contrasting with the vibrant and diverse flavors I had hoped to experience during my stay.

With the day’s travels and experiences behind me, I decided to retire for the night. This marked the end of my first day in Riyadh, and I looked forward to what the following days in Saudi Arabia had in store.

Day 2: The HR Leaders Conference

The second day of my journey in Riyadh began with a quick breakfast, which was satisfactory. However, it was during this meal that I started to notice and experience the unique cultural dynamics in Riyadh.

As I made my way to the hotel’s breakfast area, I observed a distinct pattern, there were no women dining alone. Instead, they were typically accompanied by their spouses. This observation immediately conveyed the cultural norms and expectations that governed interactions between men and women in Riyadh.

The atmosphere at breakfast was somewhat unusual for me. It was as if there were unspoken rules about not acknowledging or interacting with the opposite gender in public spaces. Men, in particular, appeared hesitant to look at or engage with women who were not their relatives.

The ambiance in Riyadh was notably quiet, with minimal interactions. As a traveler, I felt somewhat restrained, unsure about how to navigate these cultural nuances. Given the local culture and societal norms, I found myself hesitating to smile or greet others, even with simple gestures.

It was a fascinating and eye-opening experience to witness and be a part of a culture that values modesty and discretion in public spaces. Riyadh’s breakfast scene introduced me to the reserved and distinct social dynamics that shape interactions between men and women in Saudi Arabia. This insight continued to influence my interactions and experiences throughout my stay in the country.

Subsequently, I attended an HR Leaders conference held at the Hyatt Regency. My initial impressions were marked by a degree of awkwardness, as women, clad in abayas, appeared preoccupied with their mobile devices. This initial impression gradually gave way to a sense of relief as more attendees arrived. To my delight, the participants turned out to be warm and hospitable.

The conference I attended in Riyadh proved to be highly productive and enriching. It provided a valuable platform for gaining insights into various aspects of Saudi Arabia’s business landscape and its unique context.

During the lunch break, I had the opportunity to savor a variety of local dishes, and I was delighted to find that they were not only delicious but also a delightful introduction to the local cuisine. Sampling these flavors was a culinary adventure and added a layer of cultural understanding to my journey.

The conference sessions were a significant highlight, offering valuable insights into the Saudi context. Topics ranged from discussions on localization to the intricacies of local laws. The knowledge and information shared during these sessions provided a deeper understanding of the business environment in Saudi Arabia.

Overall, the conference proved to be enlightening and enriching. It not only broadened my perspective but also deepened my appreciation for the intricacies of doing business in Saudi Arabia. It was a valuable opportunity to connect with professionals, learn from experts, and immerse myself in the dynamic business landscape of the country. This experience would undoubtedly shape my perceptions and approach as I continued my journey in Saudi Arabia.

With an additional day to explore Riyadh, I inquired at the hotel reception about possible tours. However, language barriers posed a challenge, as the staff’s limited English proficiency hindered effective communication. Consequently, I decided to explore alternative options for sightseeing on TripAdvisor. I stumbled upon an enticing “Edge of the World” package and promptly booked it, setting the stage for an adventure the following day.

Day 3: Exploring the Edge of the World

The day of the excursion arrived, and I embarked on my journey to the “Edge of the World.” This involved a picturesque drive lasting approximately 1-2 hours, with stunning palm groves along the way, where dates were nearly ripe for harvesting. The scenery was breathtaking, and the drive was punctuated by the presence of camels roaming freely. At one point, the driver kindly stopped to allow me to capture some memorable photos.

Reaching the “Edge of the World,” a cliff with an elevation of 1,131 meters, was a spectacular experience. Situated roughly 100 kilometers from Riyadh at the terminus of the Tuwaik Mountain range, this location is a favored destination for mountain climbers and hiking enthusiasts. The view from this vantage point was nothing short of mesmerizing, offering a stunning panorama of the landscape. To reach the cliff’s edge, a short hike through the desert was required. Arriving just in time for the enchanting sunset, I was fortunate to capture some breathtaking photographs.

The guide led us through the area, providing insights and ensuring a safe and memorable experience. The excursion was an exploration of off-cliff spectacular views and a celebration of the region’s natural beauty.

After this awe-inspiring journey, we returned to our starting point, where refreshments were provided. Subsequently, we were taken to the Swalief Aldira Restaurant in King Salman Road for a traditional Saudi dinner. The meal included rice, chicken fry, and salads. Although the food was somewhat bland and dry, it offered a taste of authentic Saudi cuisine. Following dinner, I returned to my hotel to rest after a day filled with remarkable experiences.

Day 4: Departure from Riyadh to Jeddah

As I bid farewell to Riyadh, my next destination awaited me in Jeddah. However, a minor hiccup at the airport introduced a brief challenge. Confusion regarding the terminal arose, as my departure required reaching Terminal 3 for domestic flights. The flight number on my confirmation didn’t align with the domestic terminal, leading to some uncertainty. Fortunately, the helpful airport staff at the information desk redirected me to the correct terminal and advised taking the coach. Though this added some extra time, my practice of allowing a two-hour buffer before domestic flights proved beneficial. After an hour and a half, I finally reached Jeddah, welcomed by a friend—an immense relief to see a familiar face. Business discussions ensued, and soon after, I retired for the night.

Day 5: Weekend in Jeddah

The day began with a delightful taste of Egyptian breakfast, followed by a blend of work and business discussions. Opportunities to sample various local foods arose, although I found them somewhat bland for my taste. A hectic day unfolded with meetings, eventually concluding with me crashing for the night.

Day 6: Exploring Jeddah

Following a restful break, we reengaged in work and meetings. With some spare time on our hands, we chose to explore the city before my scheduled departure the next day. Our first stop was the Holidays Restaurant in Al Balad Street, renowned for its seafood and Kerala cuisine specialties. After a satisfying meal, we ventured into the nearby souk, although many shops were closed due to the afternoon lull. The city’s landscape was dominated by extensive construction work in progress.

During our walk, we had a fascinating encounter with an Iranian vendor selling local perfumes. Despite the language barrier, the interaction turned into a unique cultural exchange. We wandered through adjacent streets lined with shops selling clothes, immersing ourselves in the local ambiance.

Our next destination was the renowned Jeddah Corniche along the Red Sea. As we admired the coastal road, pavilions, and the majestic King Fahd’s Fountain, the tallest fountain globally, the setting sun cast a captivating glow over the surroundings.

The day ended on a laid-back note with a visit to the Triple Shot Café for some local sheesha, everyone vouches for double apple fakher sheesha and it was the best. Then it was followed by a tranquil night’s rest, preparing for the adventures that awaited on the next leg of the journey.

Day 7: Farewell to KSA

The time had come to bid farewell to Saudi Arabia. I booked an Uber for the international airport, only to realize that my terminal was different—Terminal N, where flights to certain Asian countries depart. With a language barrier preventing communication with the Arabic-speaking driver, I found myself in a moment of confusion. Fortunately, the assistance of airport staff outside proved invaluable as they redirected me to the correct terminal. Despite the additional 45 minutes, my three-hour buffer ensured a smooth departure. Boarding my flight to Hyderabad, India, went without any hitches.

However, upon landing in Hyderabad, a disheartening sight greeted me—waste strewn across the cabin. It was disappointing to witness a lack of civic responsibility, especially when passengers could have easily handed their trash to the cabin crew. Nevertheless, I boarded my final flight to Bengaluru, India, successfully concluding my journey.

Additional Notes:

  • Visa Regulations: Saudi Arabia has introduced new visa regulations, including biometrics for tourist visas. The appointment process for visas may be impacted by these changes, with delays in getting appointments and longer processing times.
  • Alcohol Restrictions: It is essential to be aware that alcohol is strictly prohibited in Saudi Arabia.
  • Dress Code: While it is not mandatory for women to wear abayas (traditional loose-fitting robes) in Saudi Arabia, it is advisable to dress modestly and consider covering one’s head, especially when visiting public areas where local customs are observed.
  • Visiting Mecca and Medina: Non-Muslims are not permitted to visit Mecca, and while non-Muslims can explore Medina for sightseeing, they are restricted from entering the holy mosques.

Conclusion: My visit to Saudi Arabia was a transformative experience, dispelling many misconceptions about travel to this part of the world. It emphasized the importance of respecting local laws and customs, which ultimately enabled a smooth and enjoyable journey. As I bid farewell to this fascinating country, I departed with a sense of gratitude and an eagerness to return for further exploration.

Shukran, Saudi Arabia – See you soon.

 

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