Jani Jermans – Travel Diaries

June 16, 2025

“The Unseen America: 4 Weeks, 7 States – A Journey Through Systems, People & Self”

Filed under: International Travel — jani @ 8:24 am

Day 1 : With the current volatile situation in US, I wasn’t particularly keen on traveling there. I was even ready to skip Surabhi’s Harvard graduation. But with some critical bank work pending for almost nine months, I had no choice but to make the trip. The challenges of maintaining a U.S. bank account as a foreign resident are real.

I had an early morning flight with Emirates and chose business class, given the long journey—about 4 hours from Chennai to Dubai and nearly 13 hours from Dubai to New York. I was glad to be joined by Aparna and her father, who were also headed to New York for Aakash’s graduation. Emirates provides a complimentary chauffeur service for business class passengers, and mine arrived on time in a sleek Mercedes. It was a smooth and comfortable ride to the airport.

Once I arrived, I availed the porter service since I was carrying enough luggage for a month-long trip. At the terminal, I met Aparna and her dad, and we caught up before boarding.

The first leg of the journey, from Chennai to Dubai, took nearly 4 hours. We had a short stopover of about 1.5 hours before our next flight to New York. By the time we changed terminals and went through the necessary checks, there was barely enough time to reach the gate—boarding had already started as I arrived.

This was my first time flying business class with Emirates, but to be honest, I wasn’t overly impressed. The cabin felt more like an upgraded premium economy—there were simply too many business class seats, which diluted the exclusive experience. Even the restroom queues were surprisingly long, much like in economy. There was an onboard sky lounge, but since I avoid alcohol due to motion sickness and headaches, it didn’t add much value for me.

The main advantage, though, was the lie-flat seat. I find it difficult to sleep sitting up, so being able to stretch out made a huge difference. If you’re seeking a truly premium experience with Emirates, I’d suggest opting for First Class instead.

We landed at JFK in the afternoon. My connecting flight to Raleigh was scheduled for later that evening, anticipating long immigration lines. Fortunately, Aparna’s dad was using a wheelchair, and they were routed through a separate immigration queue. I accompanied them, and with Aparna answering most of the questions, we cleared immigration in just 15 minutes. After bidding them farewell, I headed to the domestic terminal.

Despite having a First Class ticket with American Airlines, I was disappointed to learn that their lounge access isn’t available for domestic flights—regardless of class. A quick tip for anyone booking U.S. domestic flights: economy tickets usually come with no checked baggage allowance. I had two suitcases for my month-long stay and ended up paying $40 per bag (up to 25kg), and nearly $100 more if they were overweight.

In comparison, booking First Class—which costs about $200-$300 more—makes sense. You get a dedicated check-in queue, generous baggage allowance without the usual hassles, better seating, and complimentary beverages. For someone like me, who simply enjoys a hot cup of tea or coffee, that extra comfort is worth it.

With about 5–6 hours to spare before my flight, I went searching for food. Most of the available sandwiches were cold and unappealing. A staff member suggested Starbucks, but I’m not a fan of their coffee. As I walked around, I spotted a Dunkin’ Donuts and was relieved to find hot burgers and green tea. That warm meal was a real savior—the cold sandwich I had picked up earlier went straight into the bin.

Unfortunately, my flight to Raleigh was delayed by another hour or two. Since it was a weekday and quite late, I asked Sala not to come to the airport. I eventually boarded the direct flight, landed just past midnight, booked an Uber, and finally reached Sala’s place—completely drained and ready to crash for the night.

Day 2: I woke up to the comforting aroma of hot tea made by Sala. There’s something special about tea made by someone else, especially when it’s by a dear friend. These days, I’ve mostly moved away from milk tea—but when Sala makes it, there’s always an exception. Geetha, Sala, and I sat together sipping tea while Hasna had already left for college, as I had woken up a bit late.

The morning calm was just what I needed. Sitting out in the backyard, watching the birds—robins and finches that had made their nests in the garden—brought such peace. The lush greenery, the blooming flowers, the rustle of leaves, and the soft chirping of birds made it the perfect setting to ease into the day.

Soon after, Sala got back to his work-from-home routine, which kept him occupied till around 5 PM. Geetha, on the other hand, barely had a moment to breathe. Between her full-time job and mentoring dance rehearsals with Hasna for an upcoming production in July, her schedule was non-stop.

I caught up on my own work until evening when Sandhya came by to take me to Chase Bank to finally sort out the pending issues that had been lingering for months. Unfortunately, by the time we reached, it was just 10–15 minutes before closing. The staff were courteous but understandably couldn’t help right then. The banker we needed to meet was already occupied, so we scheduled an appointment for the following Monday and headed back home.

Day 3: It was a hectic day, juggling work and errands. With the bank work still pending—mainly because I didn’t have a U.S. mobile number—we set out to get that sorted first.

We started with Verizon, which had an interesting offer. Though a little more expensive than my current Nextiva plan, they offered an EMI option for an iPhone worth $1200 at zero interest over three years. Surprisingly, they don’t even recommend paying the amount upfront. Since I spend most of my time outside the U.S., their international roaming package seemed the most practical for my needs.

However, since I don’t have an SSN or ITIN, and the number was being registered under my business account, they required a Good Standing Certificate from the State of Delaware, where my company is incorporated.

I quickly reached out to Siba and asked him to coordinate with our registered agents in the U.S. to get the certificate expedited. In the meantime, we decided to explore other providers—AT&T and Spectrum.

AT&T turned out to be impractical for my needs. Their international roaming costs $10 per day, which just isn’t viable for someone like me who travels frequently and doesn’t need full-time connectivity. Spectrum, on the other hand, was surprisingly efficient. The staff was prompt, responsive, and explained their packages clearly. Although we hadn’t finalized anything, we took their details and said we’d come back later after deciding.

To our surprise, the Spectrum team went ahead and created an order in their system—even without confirmation. They even scheduled a technician for an in-person setup. Since Sandhya’s address was listed as our local point of contact (SPOC), all communication and appointments were routed through her.

The worst part? There was no option to cancel the order on the spot. So now, we had an installation visit scheduled for a service we never confirmed—one of those ironic moments where U.S. customer service efficiency went a bit too far.

Day 4: It was the weekend, so I allowed myself a slow start and woke up late. Even though it was her day off from work, Geetha still had her dance classes from the morning, and Sala had already left for his usual pickle ball game.

By the time I got up, Sala had finished his game and was busy coordinating with Sandhya and Pradeep, as the Spectrum technician had shown up at their place for the installation we never confirmed. It took both of us a couple of calls and some back-and-forth to get the whole thing sorted and canceled. That took a good chunk of the morning.

Later, Sala and I stepped out for a quick round of shopping to pick up some essentials for cooking at home. Later in the day, we headed to Tanger Outlet in Maben to shop for a few other things I needed for my trip.

I had to replace my bag—the one I got from Ethiopia had a poor-quality zipper that broke during travel. Sala suggested we check out Michael Kors, and to my surprise, they had a perfect tote bag—spacious, durable, and stylish, just what I needed for day-to-day outings.

As we continued exploring, not much caught my eye at first. I realized I didn’t really need more formals—I hadn’t even worn the ones I picked up last year! What I actually needed was casual wear for the month-long stay. That’s when we stumbled upon Chico’s, and it turned out to be just my kind of store. Their clothing is perfect for travel—light, silky, and stylish. They also had a lovely collection of accessories. I picked up a few outfits and matching pieces.

By the time we got back, I was wiped out. After a long day of sorting errands and shopping, we called it a night and crashed.

Day 5: It was a lazy Sunday. By the time I woke up, Sala had already returned from his pickleball game and was catching up with a friend who had joined him. We sat down with our usual cup of hot tea and enjoyed a slow, relaxed morning. Geetha and Hasna were tied up with their dance classes for most of the day and well into the night, so it was just the three of us.

We decided to head out to Jordan Lake, one of the popular weekend spots near Raleigh. It’s a sprawling 13,900-acre reservoir formed by damming the Haw River, managed by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, and serves multiple purposes—recreation, flood control, water supply, and wildlife habitat.

We visited the Ebenezer Church access point, a peaceful spot near the shore. We spread out a bit to relax while chatting. Sala’s friend, who had been up all night due to a work emergency, ended up dozing off while we talked. So Sala and I took a quiet walk around the lake, soaking in the fresh air and scenic views. We clicked a few photos and enjoyed the serenity.

By the time we returned, his friend was just waking up. We were tempted to give him a little scare—but seeing how exhausted he was, we spared him! Instead, we all sat by the water and enjoyed coconut water and fresh watermelon that Sala had brought along. Simple pleasures, but so refreshing.

Later in the evening, Geetha managed to get a short break. We decided to go for a little drive together and stopped by a home-based ice cream shop. The flavors were fresh and comforting, and we packed some for Hasna before heading back home.

After such a relaxing day, we ended it on a sweet note and crashed for the night.

Day 6: My morning began the usual way—sitting outside with a cup of tea, watching the birds flutter around the garden. The robins and finches have made their nests there, and it’s always such a peaceful start to the day. After that little dose of calm, I got back to my work.

In the afternoon, Sandhya came by to pick me up so we could head to the bank and hopefully make progress on the long-pending account work. Unfortunately, due to the delay in addressing the issue, the local bankers weren’t able to help us. We were advised to contact customer service—but by then, it was already closed for the day. With no other option, we postponed everything to the next morning.

When we got back, I finally saw the brown rabbit that Sala had been talking about. He often mentioned how these rabbits were nibbling on the garden plants, but this was the first time I spotted one myself—and I have to admit, it looked absolutely adorable despite its destructive little habit!

The rest of the evening was calm. I wrapped up some leftover work and, after a day filled with delays and unexpected visitors, finally called it a night.

Day 7: It was a routine start to the day, but things quickly got frustrating. We began the morning by calling customer service once again to try and resolve the pending bank issue. Unfortunately, the call bounced between multiple teams, none of whom could offer a concrete solution. Explaining the same issue repeatedly to different people was exhausting—and frankly, a nightmare.

I couldn’t help but compare the experience to banking in India. Despite all the complaints we tend to have back home, we are actually pampered when it comes to customer service. It’s only when you deal with such inefficient and unsatisfactory systems abroad that you begin to truly appreciate how streamlined and responsive our own services are back home.

The final update from the bank was vague—they said they needed to check internally and promised a call back. Of course, that never came. So now, the wait continues into another day.

In the midst of all this frustration, the only comforting part was being around some of my closest friends. Sala and Geetha, despite their packed schedules, did their best to make time for me. Sala, in particular, was actively looking for alternative solutions, as Chase Bank was becoming a never-ending ordeal. Meanwhile, I remained stuck—unable to use my account until the issue is resolved.

Day 8: Finally, we managed to get through to the Chase compliance team—ironically, outsourced to Hyderabad, India. Unfortunately, they turned out to be one of the most inefficient teams I’ve ever dealt with.

The core issue revolved around verifying a personal check from HSBC. I provided my U.S. number for the verification process, but they rejected it, claiming the caller ID showed as “unknown.” I’ve had this number for over two years and was even willing to provide my monthly bills as proof, yet the representative refused to acknowledge it.

I contacted Nextiva to update the caller ID settings. They confirmed the update, but since their support is entirely virtual with no live agents, there was no real-time way to resolve the issue. Because of this seemingly minor hurdle, what should have been a simple 10-minute verification turned into a nine-month ordeal—one that I eventually had to fly to the U.S. to fix.

Here’s the irony: even while sitting in the U.S., my verification call was routed back to Hyderabad. And, suddenly, the same representative who had previously rejected my number when I was in India now accepted it without hesitation. Had she done this earlier, my account would never have been frozen.

To make matters worse, she had even attempted to call HSBC without me on the line—a clear violation of standard privacy protocols. Naturally, HSBC refused to proceed. At that point, I explained—once again—that I only had a Nextiva number. But because it showed up as “unknown,” she refused to use it. This ridiculous back-and-forth dragged on for nine months—until I came to the U.S. in person.

Finally, while in the U.S., we managed to connect with HSBC on a three-way call and complete the verification.

But just when I thought the nightmare was over, Chase informed me that my account would not be reopened due to the “long delay” in verification.

Whose fault was that delay? Certainly not mine. The blame lay squarely with their poor communication, rigid processes, and complete lack of accountability. And yet, I suffered the consequences—my account was frozen, my funds inaccessible for nearly a year, and my business operations affected.

When I asked if I could at least collect the remaining balance in person, I was given the classic response:
“We can only mail a check to the Delaware address on file.”

No flexibility. No logic. No understanding. I was in Raleigh, traveling across multiple states for business, and now I had to wait for a check to arrive at an address I wasn’t even staying at. This kind of blind rule-following, with no room for basic human judgment, is absolutely maddening.

This entire experience with Chase Bank has been nothing short of a nightmare. It’s made me seriously question why U.S. banks even offer services to international clients when they’re clearly incapable of supporting them. This wasn’t just bureaucracy—it was mental harassment, financial disruption, and a complete waste of time, money, and energy.

If this is the level of service from a “Grade A” U.S. bank like Chase, I shudder to think what it would be like with a smaller institution.
Never again with Chase. Lesson learned—unfortunately, the hard way.

Day 9: It was finally time to meet Noor. He had just returned from a road trip, and since I was flying to Memphis the next day, catching up with him was an absolute must.

Sala and I headed to Noor’s place, where we were warmly welcomed by his family. As always, we were treated to their legendary biryani—a dish I can never say no to, and honestly, never get enough of Noor’s wife makes the best biryani I’ve ever had. The last time, Sala and Noor prepared it under her supervision, and this time it looked like their son and daughter had taken on the legacy and pitched in too.

Sala and I thoroughly enjoyed the hearty meal, savoring every bite. After dinner, we spent time catching up with Noor and his spouse, sharing stories, laughs, and reflections. It was one of those moments where time stood still.

For the three of us—Sala, Noor, and me—it felt like we had stepped back into our IBM days. The memories, the camaraderie, and the shared experiences all came flooding back. There’s something truly special about reconnecting with old friends, and today was a beautiful reminder of that.

All in all, it was a wonderful, heartwarming day filled with good food, great conversations, and genuine connection.

Day 10 – Today was originally meant for something special—I was supposed to fly to New York to attend Aakash’s graduation. Unfortunately, Aakash couldn’t manage to secure additional tickets at the last minute, so I decided to make the most of the change in plans by visiting Krishna instead. He was in town and had just recovered from a major health scare, so it felt important to see him.

Even though I told Sala I could take an Uber to the airport—especially since he was working and my flight was in the afternoon—he insisted on dropping me off. In hindsight, I’m glad he did. It gave us one more chance to catch up during the drive to Raleigh airport.

During the security check at the airport, I had less than 100 ml of water left in my bottle, but that didn’t stop TSA from making me go back and empty it. I was surprised, but it quickly became clear—in the U.S., even a drop of water isn’t allowed past security. So, note to self (and others): never carry water through U.S. airport security, no matter how little. Instead, carry an empty bottle and fill it post-security—there are plenty of water stations around. A small hiccup, but a valuable lesson learned.

I flew American Airlines with a layover in Charlotte before reaching Memphis, as there were no direct flights. Krishna, despite my repeated requests not to strain himself due to his recent health issues, came to pick me up from the airport. Since it was already quite late by the time I arrived, he dropped me at the hotel and headed home.

He had suggested I book the same hotel as my previous visit—Residence Inn in Germantown—so it felt familiar. The hotel is decent, but there were a few things that still surprised me. For instance, housekeeping is only done on alternate days. Can you imagine that happening in India at a Marriott? It’s hard to believe, but welcome to the U.S.—even well-known properties cut back on what we consider basic services.

Even the complimentary water bottles are provided only on the first day; after that, you have to buy your own. For the kind of money one pays for a Marriott stay, it felt more like a glorified B&B.

After the long day of travel and shifting plans, I was exhausted. I didn’t dwell too much on the little inconveniences and just crashed for the night.

Day 11: The morning started with the idea of checking out the hotel breakfast, but that plan quickly fizzled. I grabbed a glass of orange juice, only to be shocked by how sour it was—it honestly felt like they had squeezed it with the peel still on. I’d never tasted anything like it! When I told Krishna about it later, he laughed and said, “That’s just how orange juice tastes in the U.S.” Well, that was the end of orange juice for me on this trip.

Soon after, Krishna arrived and we headed out to visit the National Civil Rights Museum in Memphis. The museum is located at the historic Lorraine Motel, the very site where Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. was assassinated in 1968. The museum offers an immersive journey through the American Civil Rights Movement, from the horrors of slavery to the ongoing fight for equality. Through interactive exhibits, oral histories, and powerful artifacts, it covers pivotal events like the Montgomery Bus Boycott, the Freedom Rides, and the Black Power Movement.

Walking through those halls felt like revisiting some of the darkest, yet most defining, chapters of American history. I picked up a book from the museum store to read more deeply about it later—there’s just so much to absorb.

Afterward, we went to Central BBQ, a spot I had heard is among the best in town. We ordered a pulled pork burger and chicken wings, and ate them right in the car. True to its reputation, the food was delicious—simple, hearty, and full of flavor.

Next on the agenda was a bit of shopping. We stopped by Chico’s, but the first store—a smaller, independent one—was a letdown with very limited choices. Thankfully, we found another outlet nearby that had a better collection, and I managed to pick up a few things.

By then, both of us were tired of typical American fast food, so Krishna suggested making some homemade fish curry and rice—a refreshing change from burgers and hot dogs! We picked up some seafood and headed to his place. To my surprise, he prepared the fish Maharashtrian-style, marinating it in kokum juice—something I was seeing for the first time.

While Krishna cooked, I enjoyed some quiet time in his garden. It was filled with magnolia, jasmine, and a variety of other plants. Of course, like most backyards here, it was also a buffet for the local rabbits who apparently enjoy his plants as much as he does!

The fish curry turned out to be absolutely delicious. After that soulful meal and a lovely evening, I booked an Uber and headed back to the hotel, heart and stomach both full.

Day 12: The day began with a cozy brunch at Panera, known for its fresh breads and inviting atmosphere—just perfect for a rainy morning. The steady downpour outside added a soothing rhythm to our meal, making it feel even more comforting.

After brunch, we drove to Tanger Outlets in Mississippi for some shopping. I stayed focused on Chico’s, while Krishna wandered off to explore Polo and a few other stores. Unfortunately, Chico’s didn’t have many clothing options this time, but their accessory collection was impressive, and I managed to pick up a few nice pieces.

The drive back to Memphis was smooth and scenic, made all the more pleasant by the soft rain. Once we returned, Krishna dropped me off at the hotel. I could tell he wasn’t feeling his best—the combination of dietary restrictions and dining out the previous day had clearly taken a toll. He needed to rest and get back on his medication.

We said our goodbyes quietly, knowing I was flying out the next day. I truly appreciated how much effort he put into spending time with me, even while managing his health. It was a gentle and heartfelt close to my Memphis visit.

Day 13: It was time to check out, and since it was Memorial Day, Krishna had the day off. Though I offered to take an Uber, he insisted on dropping me at the airport himself—a thoughtful gesture before heading off to Boston. We said our goodbyes, and I boarded my flight, which routed through Washington D.C. before finally landing in Boston.

From the airport, I grabbed an Uber to Beacon Inn, where Sur was already waiting for me—he had just arrived from India. But any excitement I felt quickly turned into pure frustration. Our room was on the fourth floor, and there was no elevator.

I had two heavy suitcases, and the idea of dragging them up a narrow staircase after a long journey was the last thing I wanted to deal with. I couldn’t believe Sur had booked a place like this, knowing I’d be arriving with all this luggage. To make matters worse (or perhaps funnier in hindsight), I couldn’t resist teasing him a bit—he’s not exactly known for his love of physical activity. This, I told him, was his surprise workout session for the day. He had already hauled his own bag up earlier, and now we had to do it all over again for mine.

By the time we finished, I was absolutely famished. We stepped out and spotted a Spanish restaurant just around the corner. Thankfully, it turned out to be a great find. I had one of the best grilled chicken dishes I’ve ever had, while Sur enjoyed a plate of sautéed mushrooms, and we shared a flavorful bruschetta.

Stuffed and thoroughly exhausted from the travel, luggage drama, and unintended stair-climbing workout, we returned to the inn and crashed for the night.

Day 14: It was a special day—Mason Graduation Day for Surabhi. We got ready early and made our way to the Harvard Kennedy School, where the convocation was taking place.

Before the ceremony, we stopped by the campus canteen for a quick breakfast and caught up with Vinit and Sara. The excitement in the air was contagious, and soon after, we made our way to the lawn, where the graduation was being held.

The ceremony itself was beautiful—elegant, heartfelt, and inspiring. I had the pleasure of meeting Sur’s parents, who had flown in for the occasion, along with Vir. There was a sense of pride all around, and the joyful energy of the graduates made it a truly memorable experience.

Once the ceremony concluded, we dropped Sur’s parents back at their accommodation and returned to the hotel to rest and recharge for a bit. Later that evening, we headed to the waterfront near Harvard to meet Surabhi’s close college friends. It was a relaxed and warm gathering—we spent time listening to stories from their time at Harvard, sharing plenty of laughs, and enjoying some delicious pizza. As we were winding down, Manisha also arrived, just in time to say hello and be part of the closing moments of the evening.

Eventually, we called it a night—ending the day on a high note, full of celebration, connection, and pride in Surabhi’s wonderful achievement.

Day 15 : Today was dedicated to exploring Harvard, and we were lucky to have Surabhi as our guide. She took us on a personal tour of the campus, walking us through the historic grounds, iconic libraries, and the Harvard Art Museum. Every corner of the university exuded legacy and tradition, and seeing it through Surabhi’s eyes made it even more special. The campus truly felt like a living monument to centuries of academic excellence.

After the tour, we headed to Friends Café for a laid-back brunch. The café had a warm, cozy vibe and offered the perfect setting to unwind after a morning full of walking and discovery. Once we were done, we dropped Sur’s parents back at their accommodation so they could get some rest.

In the afternoon, we visited the Boston Tea Party Ships & Museum, one of the most immersive and interactive museums I’ve ever been to. Set on the water, the museum brings to life the events of December 1773, when American colonists—disguised as Mohawk Indians—dumped 342 chests of tea into Boston Harbor. This act of protest against British taxation, particularly the Tea Act, became a defining moment leading up to the American Revolution.

The experience beautifully blended historical storytelling, live reenactments, and interactive exhibits aboard restored 18th-century ships. We didn’t just learn about history—we felt like we were part of it. It was a vivid reminder of the strength of civil resistance and the enduring importance of standing up for one’s rights.

After wrapping up the visit, we made our way back to Cambridge. The infamous Boston traffic made it a rather long drive, but we eventually made it back just in time to get ready for the evening.

We had tickets to a student graduation party at a nearby pub, organized as part of the celebration events. Sadly, the party didn’t live up to expectations. The food was terrible, the vibe was lackluster, and the whole experience felt like a bit of a waste of time and money. We tried to make the most of it, but after a while, we decided it wasn’t worth staying.

Luckily, our favorite Spanish restaurant was still open and once again came to the rescue. A comforting, familiar meal was exactly what we needed to end the day on a better note.

Exhausted from the long day of walking, learning, and enduring a disappointing party, we crashed back at the hotel, ready to embrace whatever the next day had in store.

Day 16 : Today was the main graduation day for Surabhi, and there was an air of excitement from the moment we woke up. After a quick bite to eat, we headed to the Harvard Kennedy School, where the graduation procession was about to begin.

The event kicked off with the stirring sound of bagpipes, as the musicians led the graduating students in a ceremonial walk. We joined the procession as it made its way to the main Harvard campus, weaving through the roads which had been cordoned off. Each department was coming out from its own building, creating a vibrant and festive atmosphere across the entire university.

The walk turned into quite the campus tour—we found ourselves circling different entrances and pathways, following the flow of the crowd and soaking in the energy of the day. It was a bit of a workout, but completely worth it for the unique experience of seeing the entire Harvard community in celebration mode.

Once Surabhi had reached her designated area for the ceremony, we stepped out briefly for a midday brunch, recharging before the final convocation.

Later, we returned to the Harvard Kennedy School for the official graduation ceremony. It was a proud, emotional moment, watching Surabhi cross this major milestone. The speeches were powerful, and the entire setup felt grand yet intimate—fitting for the momentous occasion.

After the ceremony, we said our goodbyes to Surabhi’s friends and family and headed to her room to pick up a few items that Sur had ordered earlier. With everything packed up and the day winding down, we decided to have our final dinner at our go-to Spanish restaurant—a fitting end to our stay in Cambridge.

The evening was quiet, filled with reflection and gratitude. Tired but content, we returned to the hotel and crashed for the night, marking the end of a beautiful chapter.

Day 17: Today began with a train journey—Sur had thoughtfully booked us on a business class coach from Boston to New York, eager for me to experience a U.S. train ride firsthand. The coach was spacious and comfortable, except for the tight luggage storage area. While Sur tried to manage his bags in the cramped space, I stepped in to help—and that’s when disaster struck.

My heavy suitcase slipped and crushed my right thumb. At first glance, there was no visible damage, but within seconds, I felt a wave of pain and saw blood oozing from under the nail. It was one of those travel mishaps you dread—especially when far from home. The injury made it nearly impossible to use that hand, and pulling my suitcase became a painful task. I rummaged through my wallet for a makeshift bandage, trying to stop the bleeding—nearly in tears from the pain and sheer frustration.

The only small relief came in the form of food. Though options were limited, Sur grabbed a hot dog and some coffee from the pantry car. The warm coffee helped soothe both my mood and my senses, and I slowly started to feel a bit better. I even managed to doze off for a while, hoping sleep would help me forget the pain.

We arrived in New York by late morning and hopped into a taxi. Out of habit, I asked the driver what the fare would be—he turned out to be a friendly Sikh gentleman, who smiled and replied, “There’s a meter—we don’t cheat here.” We all laughed—it was a funny reminder of how some habits from India stay with you, no matter where you go.

Our stay was booked at Le Meridien on Fifth Avenue, but since we were early, our room wasn’t ready yet. Sur had to rush to his office, so I waited in the lobby. In the meantime, I coordinated the delivery of my Chase check, which had arrived the previous day in Delaware, to be forwarded to Le Meridien. Being in New York made logistics easier—with every major bank and courier service just around the corner, I felt more in control.

Once the room was finally ready, I went upstairs and crashed—utterly drained, both physically and emotionally from the pain in my thumb and the events of the day.

Later that evening, Sur returned from work. I’d assumed he’d be heading out for dinner with colleagues, but it turned out no one else had made it to the office that day. So instead, we made the most of the evening together. We took a leisurely walk to Times Square, soaking in its electrifying lights, buzzing energy, and contagious charm. We picked up a chicken gyro from a street vendor—fresh, flavorful, and just what I needed to wrap up the day on a better note.

With a full belly, sore thumb, and tired feet, we made our way back to the hotel and called it a night—grateful for small joys and ready to explore New York City the next day.

Day 18: We started the day with plans for breakfast, but since the service was à la carte and running slow, we were short on time and had to leave before eating to catch our ferry to Liberty Island. I was already beginning to feel the effects of skipping a meal—an empty stomach on a moving boat is a nightmare for someone like me who’s prone to motion sickness and headaches.

Thankfully, once we were on board, I managed to grab a quick hot dog and coffee from the ferry’s snack counter. Not the most glamorous meal, but a lifesaver in that moment.

We soon arrived at Liberty Island, home to one of the most iconic symbols of freedom—the Statue of Liberty (Liberty Enlightening the World). Designed by Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi and gifted by France in 1886, the statue is as majestic in person as in photographs. The Statue of Liberty Museum, which opened in 2019, was equally fascinating—especially the display of the original torch, which added historical weight to the experience. Seating around the island was limited, so we made the most of brief stops and wandered around the grounds, soaking in the atmosphere.

From there, we caught the ferry to Ellis Island—a place that holds deep emotional resonance in America’s immigrant story. Between 1892 and 1954, nearly 12 million immigrants passed through this once-bustling inspection and processing station. It’s estimated that 40% of Americans today can trace at least one ancestor to Ellis Island. Now part of the Statue of Liberty National Monument, the island’s north side houses the moving National Museum of Immigration, while the south side, including the old Immigrant Hospital, is accessible via guided tours. The stories, photos, and personal artifacts brought this chapter of history to life in a very human way.

After the ferry returned us to Manhattan, we made our way to the 9/11 Memorial & Museum. It was nearly closing time, so we moved quickly through the exhibits, but even in that short time, the impact was powerful. The museum commemorates the victims, survivors, and first responders of both the September 11th attacks and the 1993 World Trade Center bombing. Walking through the space, I was overcome with emotion—how can one human bring such devastation to another? It’s something I still can’t wrap my head around. All I could do was offer a silent prayer for the souls lost and the families forever changed.

After leaving the memorial, we took a walk through the nearby World Trade Center mall, then continued on to the Rothschild Center, followed by a visit to the New York Stock Exchange and a quick stop at the iconic Wall Street Bull. The energy in the Financial District was electric, even late in the day, but after everything we had seen and felt, we were completely spent.

We finally made our way back to the hotel and crashed for the night, hearts full, minds racing, and feet sore from a long but deeply meaningful day.

Day 19: We planned to start the day a little earlier to finally enjoy a proper breakfast—and thankfully, it was a decent one that set a good tone for the rest of the day.

Our first stop was the New York Botanical Garden (NYBG)—a sprawling, 250-acre living museum and a world-renowned center for plant research and conservation. From the moment we entered, it was like stepping into a different world—calm, colorful, and filled with life.

Among the various highlights, my absolute favorite was the Rose Garden. It instantly reminded me of the Ooty Rose Garden back home. For me, flowers are pure joy, and being surrounded by so many vibrant blooms lifted my spirits immensely. I couldn’t resist taking loads of pictures, especially of the roses in full bloom, and then spent time wandering through other curated sections, admiring the diverse flora and fauna on display.

After exploring the gardens, we stopped by a restaurant for a quick meal to refuel before heading to our next destination: the American Museum of Natural History (AMNH). Located in Theodore Roosevelt Park, this legendary museum is home to around 32 million specimens—ranging from plants, animals, fossils, and meteorites to human cultural artifacts and even genomic and astrophysical data.

The museum is enormous, covering over 2.5 million square feet, and it felt like we were only scratching the surface of its vast collection. Still, what we managed to see was incredibly impressive and thought-provoking—a testament to the wonders of both the natural world and human discovery.

Later in the evening, we made a stop at the iconic Strand Bookstore, famously known for its “18 miles of books.” It’s a paradise for book lovers and one of the most beloved independent bookstores in New York. Since Sur loves books, especially those on sci-fi fiction, he was completely in his element here—browsing shelves with childlike excitement. I ended up picking up a book on American history as well—something meaningful to remember the trip by.

With our bags a little heavier and hearts quite full, we returned to the hotel and crashed for the night, wrapping up another fulfilling day in New York.

Day 20: It was an incredibly stressful day. The check that was supposed to be delivered on Friday never arrived—and with weekend courier services largely unavailable in the U.S., I was forced to wait until Monday. My flight was the next day, and I couldn’t afford any more delays.

After a quick breakfast, I sat anxiously in the hotel, waiting. That’s when I learned that the agents in Delaware had used UPS instead of FedEx, even though we had provided a FedEx account for faster service. To make matters worse, while tracking the package, I saw a frustrating update: “Address incomplete.” That made no sense. How could a courier fail to locate a well-known hotel like Le Meridien on Fifth Avenue, especially when the complete address had already been provided?

Despite paying $50 for expedited delivery, it was now clear there was going to be a delay. I was furious.

Trying to resolve it, I thought maybe adding my room number might help. The hotel reception had kindly offered to leave a note with the room number and take the package on my behalf. However, UPS’s website didn’t allow me to update the address. The reception told me the nearest UPS store was just a few blocks away, so I rushed there—only to be told they were just a store and couldn’t help directly. They did, however, give me a customer service number.

While I was scrambling, Sur somehow managed to get the room number added through his account. When I called UPS again, the agent frustratingly told me that adding the room number counted as a new address, which meant delivery would now take another 24 hours. I tried to explain repeatedly that this was not a new address—we simply clarified what was already given—but nothing worked.

I was exhausted, panicking, and ready to give up. I called Sur again, and we tried one more time. This time, a lady answered, and thank God for her. She had some common sense. Once we explained everything—the urgency, that my flight was the next day, and that we hadn’t changed the address but only clarified it—she agreed to add a supervisor note and escalate the delivery.

Finally, a couple of hours later, I received a call on my U.S. number. A UPS driver had the package. I confirmed the address again, and at long last, the check was delivered. What a nightmare.

But the day wasn’t done testing me yet.

The next step was to cash the check, and that turned out to be another ordeal. I went to Chase Bank, hoping to encash it, but was told that since it was a business check, I couldn’t do so directly. It had to be deposited into a business account and then transferred. Worse, they refused to even open a business account for me the same day, citing policy restrictions.

As a non-resident, I already knew how hard it is to open a bank account in the U.S.—most banks don’t entertain non-residents unless it’s a global bank. Now I had a check in my hand and no way to encash or deposit it. I was told the check would be valid for 120 days, but the thought of possibly losing that money added to my anxiety.

Feeling helpless, I noticed a Citibank branch nearby and decided to give it a shot. To my surprise, the staff were quite accommodating. Even though they didn’t have a clear checklist for Indian nationals, the banker on duty was kind and patient. She even conference-called a business banker and tried her best to initiate the account opening for me.

Though the account couldn’t be opened instantly due to verification procedures, she told me she would follow up within a day or two. I appreciated her effort, especially because I had told her I was flying out the next day. She made sure all possible paperwork was completed in person.

Completely drained—physically and emotionally—I left the bank and headed back to the hotel. It had been a frustrating, chaotic day. But thankfully, I had a dinner meeting scheduled with Mr. Boris, which provided a much-needed distraction.

Catching up with him was comforting; he, too, was exhausted from a long day, so we kept the evening simple. After a relaxed meal and some conversation, he kindly walked me back to the hotel. We said our goodbyes, and as soon as I got to my room, I crashed for the night, hoping the next day would be smoother.

Day 21: We had an early morning flight out of New York to Delaware. Since there are very few direct flights to Delaware, we flew from LaGuardia to Philadelphia—it’s just about a 30-minute drive from Philly to Wilmington, Delaware.

Sur had to rush to his Chase office because our flight was delayed, so we dropped him off first. I then headed to Holiday Inn Express & Suites Wilmington-Newark, and thankfully, I was able to check in right away. As is common in the U.S., there was no help with luggage, so I hauled everything myself and went straight to the room to freshen up.

My main mission for the day was to open a business bank account, since our company is registered in Delaware—I figured it might work to my advantage to do it here.

I started with CitiBank, hoping to follow up on the application I had initiated earlier in New York. Unfortunately, the branch I located turned out not to be a proper bank branch at all—just an office location with no staff. So I moved on to Bank of America, where the banker was helpful and tried to initiate the process. But things hit a wall before she could click submit, when I was asked for an ITIN. Adding my U.S. sponsor wasn’t an option either, as she didn’t hold at least a 25% share in the company, which was apparently a requirement. Disappointed I went back to the hotel and crashed for the night.

Day 22: New day and I tried to visit Wells Fargo, but was turned away because the business banker was unavailable and asked to try another branch.

I then went to TD Bank, where the banker was extremely kind and helpful. She explained that she could proceed only if I provided company documents bearing the official seal of the State of Delaware. This was news to me. I quickly took a sample photo of the document and forwarded it to Siba, asking him to coordinate with the local agent. But he refused to share the local contact’s number and said they’d need advance notice—yet another roadblock.

Determined, I tried my luck at Citizens Bank, but they required a physical office in the U.S. to open the account. Then came PNC Bank, which had the same policy. At M&T Bank, the banker candidly told me that as a local bank, they didn’t support international transactions, and she actually recommended I go back to Bank of America or Wells Fargo—where she had previously worked. I then went back to Wells Fargo, hoping for a different outcome. This time, the banker didn’t turn me away due to unavailability—but after reviewing the application, she refused to proceed because my U.S. sponsor did not hold at least a 25% share in the company, which was a strict requirement. It was frustrating to hit the same wall again despite putting in so much effort.

Running out of options, I insisted Siba help me with the sealed documents, but his response was flat: “You’ll have to figure it out on your own. The local agents won’t go without advance notice.” I had no choice. I booked an appointment myself with the Division of Corporations in Dover—only then did I realize that Dover is a different city, almost an hour and a half away.

Despite being late by about 15 minutes, I went ahead. The receptionist was polite and directed me to the basement office. The lady there was very helpful. I filled out the form, but they only accepted exact change or check for payment. Since I didn’t have a U.S. account to write a check from, I handed over $100—far more than needed—telling her to keep the balance, as I had no other choice.

Interestingly, when she asked where I’d be using the documents and I replied “for a U.S. bank account,” she said I didn’t need an apostille. Just a simple state seal was enough. Within a minute, the document was stamped. Since I had overpaid, she credited the balance to my account wallet for future use. That was the only part of the day that actually went smoothly.

On the way back, there was an accident, which delayed me further. I rushed to TD Bank just before closing, and thankfully, the same banker welcomed me and began the account opening process. By the time everything was submitted, it was nearly closing time. She informed me that the final backend approval was still pending, so I’d need to return the next day.

I hadn’t had any water or food the entire day. The 500 ml water bottle I’d carried had run out in the first half of the day, and I didn’t have time to stop anywhere. When I finally returned to TD Bank, I asked if they had any water—they said no. That was the limit for me—in India, it’s unimaginable not to get drinking water, which is usually freely provided everywhere.

Since I had to return to the bank the next day, I had no choice but to reschedule my morning flight to a late-night departure to Detroit, while Sur flew out to Columbus. I was completely exhausted—both physically and mentally.

To unwind after the chaos of the day, I followed the banker’s recommendation and had dinner at Banks Seafood Kitchen—a local gem for seafood lovers. The meal helped lift my spirits a little.

Back at the hotel, I collapsed into bed—completely drained, but thankful that at least some progress had finally been made.

Day 23: A call from TD Bank woke me up—the initial approval for the account had come through, and I needed to visit the bank to complete the remaining formalities. I rushed over, where the banker directed me to another helpful and supportive lady. However, at the last minute, they realized that since I didn’t have an ITIN, they couldn’t give me direct access to the account. Thankfully, since the approval was already in place, they took my US SPOC’s details and agreed to open the account under her, with the understanding that she would be given full access initially and I could be added later.

Sandhya was incredibly helpful over the phone, providing all the required details promptly, and the account was finally activated. After a couple of intense hours, both the banker and I let out a sigh of relief. I was already assuming I’d have to coordinate for the debit card and that it would be couriered later—but to my surprise and delight, the banker printed and activated the card on the spot, knowing I was flying out that night. I was instructing Sandhya to FedEx it, but thankfully, I walked out with everything in hand.

Since the account was still technically inactive until Sandhya signed the documents in person, she agreed to visit the branch the next day—even though it was quite far and required taking half a day off work. With my part done, I thanked the TD Bank team and headed back to the hotel to check out. I got my luggage out and decided to unwind a bit.

For lunch, I went to Eclipse Bistro, a spot with great reviews. I just wanted a moment to relax with some good food and a drink. I asked the bartender to surprise me with a cocktail—and he didn’t disappoint. It was a bit strong for my taste, but it gave me a much-needed sense of calm after the intense stress of the past few days. I thanked them, left the restaurant, and headed straight to the airport to catch my flight to Detroit.

I landed late at night. My Uber driver, originally from the Philippines, was super friendly—we ended up chatting the entire ride. He even offered to show me around if I needed help during the weekend. I thanked him for the offer and said good night as he dropped me at Holiday Inn & Suites, Troy. The check-in was smooth, but I wasn’t surprised when they told me water bottles had to be purchased—it had become quite a norm after almost three weeks in the U.S. I picked up a few bottles, went to my room, and crashed for the night, both mentally and physically spent.

Day 24 – I started the day with a quick breakfast and headed off for a client meeting. It turned out to be a productive and warm conversation, mostly centered around expressing mutual appreciation for the successful support extended during the Mexico project. It felt good to close that loop on a positive note.

After the meeting, I decided to finally address the pending Verizon connection. Since I now had the “good standing” document in hand, I was able to get the connection and a new phone. However, it couldn’t be fully activated just yet. The team suggested porting my existing number—something I was relieved about, as that number is already widely shared. The only catch: I’d have to wait for a transfer PIN from Nextiva, which could take a few days. In the meantime, they set up the phone with a temporary number and gave me a quick tutorial, especially since this was my first Apple device.

I also tried visiting Citi Bank in Detroit, hoping to sort out some banking matters—but unfortunately, the location only had an ATM and no full-service branch. So that attempt was futile, and I returned disappointed.

Later in the afternoon, I was advised to visit Belle Isle Park—a 982-acre island park located in the Detroit River. Developed in the late 19th century, Belle Isle includes several islets and sits right near the U.S.-Canada border. It’s known for its scenic gardens, aquarium, and historic sites. However, by the time I arrived, everything was closed except for the open park area. Since I had come all the way, I decided to walk around, soak in the atmosphere, and take a few pictures.

To my surprise, it took a while for Uber to arrive, and I started to worry I might get stranded. When the driver—a lady—finally arrived, she casually asked why I was there alone, mentioning that the area wasn’t very safe and often had issues with drug activity and frequent police patrols. I was completely unaware of this and told her I was just there to explore the park. She kindly dropped me off at Somerset Collection, a luxury mall, so I could spend some time indoors.

At Somerset, I visited Chico’s, though I didn’t find anything that caught my eye. I did spot Diptyque—a brand I hadn’t seen in a standalone store before—so I took some time to browse through their collection. To end the evening, I dined at The Capital Grille, one of the city’s top restaurants, and treated myself to a delicious meal.

Feeling content and a little more relaxed, I headed back to the hotel and called it a night.

Day 25 – Originally, I was supposed to be in Washington, D.C. for Aaksh’s surprise party. However, since Aparna was preoccupied caring for her aging father, I didn’t receive any updates or calls from her end. Sensing that she was understandably too caught up, I decided to stay back in Detroit and make the most of my weekend exploring the city.

The Filipino Uber driver I met earlier kindly offered to take me around, and our first stop was the Henry Ford Museum of American Innovation in Dearborn. The Henry Ford is an internationally renowned cultural institution that immerses visitors in the stories of American ingenuity, innovation, and industry over the past 300 years. It’s a designated National Historic Landmark and home to several major attractions: the Henry Ford Museum, Greenfield Village, the Ford Rouge Factory Tour, a Giant Screen Theater, and the Benson Ford Research Center.

We began with the Ford Rouge Factory Tour—the very facility where Ford vehicles are manufactured. These tours are only offered during weekends or holidays when the factory isn’t operational, as one car rolls off the production line every 55 seconds—leaving no room for distractions during working hours. The tour kicked off with a series of short films covering the history of innovation and then moved on to the actual factory walkthrough, which was fascinating.

Afterward, I stepped out for a garden walk, where I learned about beekeeping, apple orchards, and sustainable gardening practices. I then made my way to Greenfield Village, choosing to take the train tour to save time. However, I hadn’t anticipated the heavy presence of pollen, and without a mask—which I’d forgotten in the hotel—I ended up with severe sneezing and a runny nose. It honestly felt like walking into a cloud of allergens, and the irritation was intense.

Later, I visited the Henry Ford Museum, including a stop at the intriguing Dymaxion House, but I skipped the Giant Screen Theater due to time constraints. I had one more place to revisit—Belle Isle Park. Since I had missed the gardens the previous day, I returned hoping to explore them. While the aquarium was unfortunately closed (they shut by 4 PM, which I hadn’t known), I was glad to finally walk through the gardens and capture some beautiful photos.

From there, we headed to the Detroit Riverwalk, or the Corniche, which borders Canada. The view was beautiful, and I took some more pictures before moving on to the General Motors headquarters, where several cars were on public display. Our last stop was Comerica Park, home to Detroit’s baseball stadium. Unfortunately, it was already closed by the time we arrived, but we walked around the area before I was dropped back at the hotel.

Since I had an early morning flight, I decided to stay up and catch up on some pending work. Around 1:00 AM, I realized I had run out of drinking water, so I went to the front desk to request a couple of bottles. To my utter disbelief, they refused, citing that they were conducting an audit and couldn’t process any transactions. Even when I explained that my card was already linked to the room and offered to sign a note or have them charge it later, they were unwilling to budge.

I was truly shocked. In the hospitality industry—especially in a hotel of this standard—this kind of customer service is inexcusable. A simple request for water turned into a lesson in rigidity and lack of empathy. It was hard not to draw comparisons with Indian hospitality, where service staff would go out of their way to help, especially in the middle of the night.

Left with no choice, I had to resort to tap water, even though I wasn’t entirely comfortable with it. I was frustrated, tempted to give them a lesson in basic customer service, but I chose to let it go and got back to finishing my work.

Day 26 – Checked out of the hotel in Detroit, still upset over how rigid and unhelpful the staff had been the previous night. I made my way to the airport, with a layover in Charlotte, and finally reached JFK by afternoon.

Even though I had booked a hotel supposedly close to the airport—since my return flight to India was scheduled for the next morning—it turned out to be a bit farther than expected. After nearly an hour-long drive through New York traffic, I reached Holiday Inn Express, Maspeth.

I stepped out briefly for dinner at a Mexican restaurant next door, had a quick meal, and returned to the room. Completely drained, I crashed for a short while before starting my usual routine of getting things sorted for the next day.

Around midnight, I realized that my flight was a bit later than expected and that I had already scheduled the Emirates chauffeur pick-up. So, I went down to the front desk and cancelled the cab booking, deciding instead to stay up and continue working—something I usually do while traveling to avoid dozing off before an early flight.

While browsing online, I noticed a promotion for an upgrade to First Class. Since I was battling a bad cold and preferred the comfort and privacy of a closed cabin, I decided to go ahead and book the upgrade. With that done, I returned to my work, trying to make the most of the remaining quiet hours before heading to the airport.

Day 27 – Even though I was tempted to extend my stay by a week and join Sur in Texas to meet Ronak and Jeelna—whom I had also missed connecting with last year—I decided against it. Given the current regulations, where staying beyond 30 days could trigger mandatory registration, deportation, or other legal complications, I didn’t want to take any chances. I had to apologize and promised to make it up to them next time. So, I stuck to my original plan and prepared to exit the country within the 28-day window.

My Emirates chauffeur arrived on time, and I headed to the airport, expecting a smoother return with my First Class upgrade. Only at check-in did I realize that the upgrade was only for the second leg—from Dubai to Chennai, not the long-haul JFK to Dubai segment. That would have made much more sense, given the duration.

Unfortunately, they informed me that no seats were available for the JFK–Dubai leg, and since the upgrade was non-refundable, I had little choice but to go ahead with the booking as is.

I was still battling a runny nose and cold, and the discomfort made the flight even harder. I took a tablet to ease the symptoms, but had to frequently request hot water from the cabin crew. With a crowded Business Class cabin, even in Emirates, getting prompt service wasn’t always easy. Still, the crew did their best within limits.

The flight felt long and exhausting. Flying when you’re unwell is never easy, and despite trying to catch up on sleep, I couldn’t rest completely. I kept reminding myself that I was almost at the end of this intense journey—a trip that had pushed every limit, physically and emotionally.

Day 28 – Homebound and Heart Full
I finally landed in Dubai, and it was an immense relief. Holding a First Class ticket for this final stretch turned out to be the best decision I could’ve made. Though my runny nose had subsided, I still felt drained. The moment I entered the First Class Lounge, everything began to change.

The hot shower in the lounge was pure bliss—it washed away the exhaustion of the past few days. After changing into fresh clothes, I felt human again. For breakfast, I chose their à la carte avocado salmon toast with a soothing green tea—exactly what I needed to reset both body and mind.

The lounge also offered a complimentary 15-minute massage, and I opted for a foot massage, which worked wonders. Rejuvenated, I sat in their business center, sipping green tea, comfortably placed near the coffee and tea station where hot water was just an arm’s reach away. I even resumed a few work calls, finally feeling energized and at peace.

Although First Class boarding is usually direct from the lounge, there was a last-minute gate change, so I had to rush. But the short-haul flight to Chennai—just under 4 hours—was worth every penny. The service was impeccable. I wasn’t hungry enough to enjoy anything beyond their signature caviar and requested the crew for hot green tea and declined the rest, though the crew was gracious and attentive and asked if she could get something else.

Upon arrival in Chennai, I breezed through fast-track immigration, collected my luggage almost instantly, and was out in under 15 minutes. The Emirates chauffeur dropped me home, and for the first time in a month, I felt truly relieved and grounded.

As I stepped into my home, one thought echoed in my mind:

“No matter where you go in the world, there’s no place like India.”
There’s a unique warmth, chaos, and familiarity here that no polished system abroad can replace. And yes—to finally eat real food again instead of those bland hot dogs (which, frankly, tasted like plastic to me) was a joy I can’t explain.

Proud to be back. Proud of my country. And grateful for every lesson this trip brought.

 

 

 

April 15, 2025

Uzbekistan – Naturally Irresistible

Filed under: International Travel — jani @ 3:56 pm

About Uzbekistan:
Uzbekistan, a Central Asian gem and former Soviet republic, is known for its stunning mosques, grand mausoleums, and historical cities that formed a major part of the ancient Silk Road — the legendary trade route linking China to the Mediterranean. With cities like Samarkand and Bukhara Uzbekistan offers an enchanting blend of history, culture, and architecture.

Visa Information:
Uzbekistan offers an easy e-visa process, which you can apply for through https://e-visa.gov.uz/main.

  • Processing Time: 3–6 business days.
  • Name Tip: If your full name includes a middle name, it’s best not to enter it when applying for the visa. The system doesn’t capture middle names, and this mismatch can cause issues during airline check-ins, especially if ground staff are unfamiliar with Uzbek visa formats. To be safe, split your full name into just First Name and Last Name.

Day 1 – Arrival in Tashkent

Back on the road with Santosh from Exotic Expeditions! As always, I combined the trip with a few business meetings before joining the group. I flew out from Chennai, transiting through New Delhi, where Sur and Vijay joined me. Eventually, the three of us landed in Tashkent, all set to explore Uzbekistan.

Santosh had already briefed us about potential issues with name mismatches on the Uzbek e-visa, especially with Indigo staff. Thankfully, everything went smoothly for me — no issues either in Chennai or Delhi. However, I heard from the group that in Bangalore, Indigo staff initially raised concerns before finally allowing one of our fellow travelers to board.

Day 2 – Exploring Tashkent & Settling In

We landed early morning in Tashkent, and the arrival process was quite smooth — thanks to the early hour, the airport was relatively quiet. After waiting for a few more group members to arrive, we headed to our hotel: Tashkent Avant Wellness. It was a decent property, though the service left a bit to be desired.

There were no towels or bed sheets — just a mattress and pillow without covers. When we requested them, we were given use-and-throw towels. Initially, we thought it was just our room, but it turned out everyone had the same experience. Housekeeping also didn’t show up even after we stepped out, and we later found out that in some properties here, cleaning happens only once every 2–3 days. That said, the rooms were reasonably clean to begin with.

Our travel group was a wonderful mix of people from different places:

  • Santosh (the organizer),
  • Sur, Vijay, and Gita from Bangalore
  • Jacky from Mumbai
  • Sayan from Kolkata
  • Poornima from Singapore
  • Shruthi & Srihari from UAE
  • Reena & Darshana (a mother-daughter duo) from Kerala
  • Madhvi from Chandigarh
  • Bhaskar and myself from Chennai

Since there was no fixed itinerary for the day, a few of us decided to explore the city and do some shopping. Uber doesn’t work here, so we used the Yandex Go app. It took a while to verify due to SMS delays, but it worked quite well for getting around once set up.

Our first stop was Chorsu Bazaar, a massive and lively market ideal for street shopping. While the gold shops were plenty and eye-catching, we gravitated toward the vibrant stalls selling nuts and herbal teas. The hazelnuts and pecans were naturally sweet, and the pistachios were impossible to resist. A definite highlight was the freshly pressed pomegranate juice, sold in bottles at almost every corner — super refreshing and perfect for a quick boost.

For lunch, we headed to the famous Besh Qozon Pilaf Centre, known for its lamb pilaf. The meat was beautifully tender, falling off the bone, but the rice was undercooked by our standards. We later realized that’s the traditional way it’s served here. Eventually, we just ordered an extra plate and focused on the meat.

After lunch, we strolled over to the Holy Dormition Cathedral, also known as the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin. It’s been the Russian Orthodox cathedral of Tashkent since 1945. Originally built in 1871, it was expanded in the 1990s, and its bell tower was reconstructed in 2010. My personal highlight was seeing tulips in full bloom all around the area — absolutely stunning!

Photography isn’t allowed inside the church, and women must cover their heads — a hat, shawl, or scarf will do just fine.

On our way back, we stopped at Lacrema Ristorante for a quick coffee break. They had some good mocktails, but just a heads-up: the cappuccinos here are served lukewarm across the country. If you like your coffee hot, it’s better to go for a black coffee, which comes piping hot.

We then visited Amir Temur square, where I had a business meeting scheduled closeby. There was a bit of panic when Sur realized he’d left his phone in the cab — but thankfully, we were able to call the driver, who returned it after 20 minutes. Since it was a one-way ride, it took a bit of coordination, but all ended well. Big relief!

My meeting was with Ms. Victoria at Café 1991, a cozy and trendy spot tucked away in the city. She thoughtfully ordered a variety of local dishes like kebabs for me to try. But we got so engrossed in our conversation that I barely tasted anything at the time — except for a cup of orange herbal tea, which was just what I needed in the chilly weather. I did manage to sample a few of the dishes later on, and they were absolutely worth the wait.

After the meeting, I caught up with Sur and Vijay, who were waiting for me at Mr. Smokey, a sheesha lounge. Unfortunately, the experience didn’t quite live up to expectations — especially after the exceptional sheesha I’d enjoyed recently in Ethiopia. It felt a bit underwhelming in comparison.

We finally headed back to the hotel and crashed for the night. A long, slightly chilly, but incredibly eventful day!

Day 3 – Off to Samarkand, the Jewel of the Silk Road

After a quick breakfast, we headed to the railway station to catch the high-speed train to Samarkand, one of the most iconic hubs of the ancient Silk Road. It was exciting to experience the Uzbekistan Railways firsthand. The journey from Tashkent to Samarkand took about 3.5 hours, and the train ride itself was smooth and comfortable.

Once we arrived, we checked into the Samarabonu Hotel (Samarabonu Mehmonxonasi) , which turned out to be a lovely property. It had a charming garden in the front, and we spent a good amount of time just relaxing there and soaking in the peaceful atmosphere.

Throughout the trip, we found ourselves enjoying the traditional Uzbek flatbread — served at almost every dining place — and the warm Uzbek hospitality that came with it.

For lunch, we dined at Asadbek Lazzat, where we tried Lagman soup (a noodle and lentil-based broth) and meatball soup, both served with bread. The meal was hearty and comforting. After that, we took a leisurely walk around Registan Square, picked up some snacks, and headed back to the hotel to rest.

We did place an order for dinner later in the evening, but it took forever to arrive. After waiting for a while, we ended up canceling it — though ironically, it showed up after two hours. At that point, we were too tired, so we called it a night and crashed.

Day 4 – A Walk Through Time in Samarkand

After a quick breakfast, we began our day with our tour Guide Ms. Zara, to visit to Gur-e-Amir, the mausoleum of Amir Temur (Tamerlane), the great Turkic conqueror. The white structures crowned with bluish domes are stunning from the outside, but the real magic begins once you step in — the interiors glisten in gold, radiating a royal warmth.

One interesting tale we heard was about a bowl used for pomegranate juice — legend has it that the amount of juice left behind indicated how many soldiers didn’t return from battle. This story made me appreciate the popularity of pomegranate juice across Uzbekistan — and how it’s revered for its health benefits.

Amir Temur’s legacy left a significant mark on architecture,  and later influenced Mughal tombs like Humayun’s Tomb in Delhi, the Gardens of Babur in Kabul, and even the Taj Mahal in Agra. Interestingly, though he hailed from another city, he was buried in Samarkand because it was snowing in his hometown at the time of his death. His tomb bears a chilling inscription: “Do not disturb me or you will unleash war.” When Stalin exhumed his body for verification in Russia, World War II began shortly after. Once his body was reburied, the war ended — a tale that left us stunned.

We then walked through the majestic Registan Square, once a thriving marketplace and educational center. During Temur’s reign, the system was so refined that every two students had a dedicated teacher, and they lived in dorms above the classrooms. Today, those same buildings house charming souvenir shops — a blend of old and new.

The Registan ensemble also honors Alisher Navoi, a renowned educator. I learned about the three-circle in the coin symbol which signified Temur’s conquests across Asia, Africa, and Europe. Another gem was discovering the mulberry trees, whose bark is used to make special paper on which the Quran is printed. That paper is said to last for 400 years and can be washed and reused.

We visited the Mirzo Ulugbek Madrasa, named after Temur’s grandson, who was deeply into astronomy and peaceful governance. We also saw a caravanserai, an 11th-century rest stop for Silk Road travelers. Though now mostly ruins, its stone structures still echo the voices of history.

An interesting detail — the long turbans worn by men also served a somber purpose: if someone died during their journey, it could be used to wrap their body. Clothing also revealed social cues — for instance, women wore bright scarves if they were unmarried, and darker ones if they were older.

Later, we visited the Hazrat Khizr Mosque, located on a hill opposite the Shah-i-Zinda complex. In 2018, this became the site of the mausoleum of Islam Karimov, Uzbekistan’s first president who led the country to independence from the USSR. The mosque is known as the “Town of the Dead,” but it felt more like a celebration of culture and legacy.

Next, we explored the Shakhi Zinda Ensemble,and  We also visited the Kusam Ibn Abbas Complex, dedicated to the first Islamic missionary in the region.

We then visited the Bibi-Khanym Mosque, built by Amir Temur for his favorite wife. She was the key to his rise — as he came from a regular family, he couldn’t have become king without a royal bloodline or relation by marriage. Interestingly, there were madrasas for girls even back then — a surprisingly progressive move for the time.

During construction, they aimed to build one of the largest mosques of the era, and for that, 100 elephants were brought in from India. Unfortunately, five died en route, and in the rush to complete the structure, engineering flaws crept in. Over time, the mosque couldn’t withstand the elements and partially collapsed — a reminder that even the grandest visions need time and care.

As the Silk Road shifted routes, Samarkand gradually lost its wealth and prominence — a stark reminder of how deeply trade influences the fate of cities.

Later that day, we dined at the iconic Samarkand Restaurant, one of the city’s oldest and most beautiful dining spots. The food was absolutely delicious, and while the service was a bit slow, the ambiance made it well worth the wait.

Our final stop for the day was the Siyob Dehqon Bozori, the local market. Sadly, most of it was closed, with only a few pavement stalls open. Still, we managed to pick up some snacks for the next day’s road trip, especially important since vegetarian options were limited for some of our fellow travelers.

We spent the rest of the evening unwinding at the Samarabonu Hotel, chatting under the stars in the garden, before finally calling it a night.

Day 5 – Into the Heart of Nuratau: Homestays, Hills, and Honest Smiles

We had a quick breakfast and set off for the Nuratau Mountains, home to Tajik communities, a fascinating mix of Turkish and Uzbek descent. The drive itself was scenic, and we made a quick stop at a lovely Tolga café for some hot coffee and somsa (local-style samosas) — simple, comforting, and perfect for the road.

By lunchtime, we arrived at Nasiba Restaurant, where we had a hearty meal — a spread of pickled vegetables, refreshing chaas (buttermilk), and a warm bowl of soup. Just as we were ready to leave, we realized that Bhaskar had forgotten his phone at a nearby supermarket. Thankfully, one of the other cars went back to retrieve it, so we waited — which gave me the perfect excuse to get some work calls done.

As I took those calls, I found myself surrounded by wide open plains dotted with lambs grazing and bird nests clearly visible among the bare branches — it’s early spring, so most trees had flowers but no leaves, making the nests pop against the landscape. It was surprisingly calming and one of those little joys that photos can never truly capture.

Eventually, we reached our home stay in Musobarakonur. It was beautiful in its rustic simplicity, but the only downside was that there were just two shared toilets for four dorms — about 20 people in total. But this was all part of the “experiential” vibe, and once I shifted focus, it didn’t bother me much.

In the evening, we went for a short hike through orchards of cherry, almond, apricot, apple, and berry trees — all blooming, with flowers in full display but no leaves yet. We entered the Nuratau Nature Reserve, a protected area known for Sverdlov’s argali (a rare wild sheep) and ancient walnut forests. We even spotted the argali near the gate — though they were small and skittish, quickly scampering away as we approached. It was a fantastic place for photographs, especially with the golden light of sunset.

We returned to the homestay just as it started getting dark. Later, we walked around the village, and to our surprise, we became local celebrities — older men came up and asked for photographs with us, which we happily posed for. There was something incredibly heartwarming about the whole interaction.

Back at the homestay, we warmed up with a strong cup of coffee, just what we needed to fight off the cold. Dinner was a lovely spread of home-cooked dishes, and after that, while others rested, I returned to my work calls — juggling the quiet of the countryside with my responsibilities.

I must add — the people here were just so genuinely kind, and yes, the men were definitely more handsome than average! Their smiles could melt anyone, and that seemed to be true across the entire country — warm, welcoming, and honest.

Day 6 – Early Starts, Ceramics, and Catching Up in Bukhara

Sleep was scarce — I barely managed an hour post-work, as I had to wake up early to grab a shower before the crowd woke up. But it was worth it. For me, starting the day fresh always matters, no matter how little rest I get.

After a quick breakfast, we bid farewell to our home stay and began our journey to Bukhara, with a stopover at Gijduvan, a small town known for its traditional ceramic pottery. We visited a pottery workshop, and it was truly enriching to learn about this beautiful craft that has been passed down through generations. Seeing the intricate process firsthand gave me a whole new appreciation for the art.

We finally reached our hotel — Hotel Shams, located right on the main road. The hotel itself was decent, but there was no elevator, and climbing three stories with heavy luggage wasn’t fun at all. While the hotel staff did assist, I couldn’t help but wonder how they manage this every day — not easy on them either.

While I caught up on some work, Shruthi and Srihari went out and got some food from an Indian restaurant, which we all enjoyed together later. Our room quickly turned into the evening hangout spot — a little party of sorts, with drinks, food, and plenty of laughter and old stories being shared.

That cozy catch-up session was the perfect way to end a long travel day. Eventually, we all crashed for the night, tired but content.

Day 7 – Bukhara’s Heritage and Heartfelt Encounters

After a quick breakfast, we set off with our guide, Ms. Niso, to explore Ismail Samani Mausoleum, located within a vast, serene park. It was fascinating to walk through layers of history — especially learning how Bukhara rose to prominence as the capital after the death of Nasser. The Ismail Samani Maqbarasi is one of the oldest monuments in the region and a symbol of early Islamic architecture.

We noticed that the stork is a national symbol for Uzbeks. Though many have left due to drought, one stork nest remains, standing as a poignant reminder of Bukhara’s golden days. At Chashma Ayub, we heard the legend of a prophet striking the ground with his staff to summon water — a touching story, especially as we later read about the Aral Sea crisis and the broader water-related challenges the region faces.

We found some of the most beautiful stork souvenirs here — truly one-of-a-kind pieces. The area itself was huge, almost like a small township with souvenir shops, restaurants, and scenic spots near the waterfront. We had lunch by the water, soaking in the view and the calm vibe.

Post-lunch, we strolled around with Ms. Niso, who patiently helped us choose gifts and souvenirs to take home. One of the most heartwarming moments of the day was how locals would stop us, ask where we were from, and light up when we said “India.” They’d respond joyfully with “Hindustan!” and excitedly ask for photos with us. That level of warmth was unexpected — we genuinely felt like celebrities, and it was beautiful.

Bukhara, having long been under Persian influence, wears that heritage proudly. We visited the Ark Fortress, once the seat of power where government meetings and coronations took place. Today, it serves more like a souvenir hub, yet the grandeur still lingers.

We also stopped by Nodir Devonbegi Madrasah, another architectural gem with ornate blue tile work, and explored the caravanserai ruins, imagining what those bustling merchant inns must have been like during the Silk Road era.

Afterward, we picked up dinner from an Indian restaurant, and as usual, our room became the hangout zone. We all huddled in, shared food, swapped stories, and eventually crashed for the night, content and a little emotional — knowing this was the final leg of an unforgettable journey.

Day 8 – A High-Speed Goodbye to Bukhara

After a quick breakfast, it was time to bid farewell to Bukhara and catch the bullet train to Tashkent. The journey took around 4.5 hours, and we arrived in the capital by evening. Our stay for the night was at Hotel Art Plaza, a comfortable, centrally located hotel.

Next door, we discovered Dudek, a high-end restaurant known for its outstanding food and cocktails. Truly one of the culinary highlights of the trip! While the food was fantastic, we were slightly surprised by the gruff demeanor of the waiters — a stark contrast to the warmth we experienced throughout Uzbekistan. Perhaps they were just having a long day. Regardless, we chose to focus on the flavors, enjoyed our meal, and ended the night on a high note.

Day 9 – Souvenirs, Goodbyes, and Gratitude

Our final morning in Tashkent began with a quick breakfast. Since our flight was in the evening, we packed and kept one room to freshen up later. We spent the day visiting Tashkent Mall, where we picked up a few project-related documents from Perfume Gallery. Lunch at the mall’s food court was casual and convenient.

One emotional moment was bidding goodbye to Santosh, who was headed off for his next adventure in Kazakhstan. We returned to the hotel, freshened up, and headed to the airport for our journey back.

I had to say goodbye to Sur and Vijay at the Delhi airport, as everyone began parting ways for their respective final destinations. It marked the end of a shared chapter filled with memories, laughter, stories, and soulful experiences.

Day 10 – Homeward Bound

Finally, I caught my flight to Chennai and made my way home. While unpacking my bags, I found myself replaying images of the mausoleums, museums, and the vast open landscapes — all still etched vividly in my mind.

This trip was unique. For the first time, all 14 of us began the journey as strangers or acquaintances, but not all ended up as friends — which is perfectly okay. Being adults, we sometimes carry our differences, and travel has a way of bringing them to light. At one point, it felt like we were a group of 7 within 14, with the rest forming their own smaller circles.

But this too was a learning experience — a reminder that every journey teaches us something about others and ourselves. Sometimes, all it takes is a little more time, patience, and openness for people to truly come together.

Rahmat… Thank you, Uzbekistan, for the memories, the warmth, the culture, and the life lessons.

 

April 9, 2025

Ethiopia – The Land of Origins

Filed under: International Travel — jani @ 3:26 pm

About Ethiopia: Its located in the Horn of Africa, is a rugged, landlocked country divided by the Great Rift Valley. Rich in history, it’s home to archaeological finds dating back over 3 million years, making it one of the oldest cradles of civilization.

Visa Info: For Indian nationals, obtaining a visa is quite convenient. You can apply for an e-visa online, and it typically gets processed within 2–3 days (https://www.evisa.gov.et/)

Our visit was part of a business delegation trip. To be honest, I was a bit nervous initially, especially since I had expected my seniors to accompany me for support—but they couldn’t make it. Thankfully, I had the most incredible support team: Suman, Teja, and Solomon.

At first, I felt the group was small, but this actually turned out to be one of the best experiences. This was my first time traveling to East Africa, and naturally, I had some apprehensions. But my team proved to be the pillar of strength.

We all met at Chennai airport, where Teja stood out immediately—he had packed a lot of ready-made vegetarian food. Since Solomon had also turned vegetarian due to the Lent season, Teja was trying to explain his food stash to the airport staff—over 50% of his luggage was just food! That moment helped break the ice instantly.

Though I had worked with Suman and Teja before, I hadn’t interacted much with Solomon. He was technically the most senior in the group, but turned out to be the youngest at heart! It was an instant connection, and the four of us just clicked from the moment we met.

What started as a professional mission turned into an unforgettable experience of bonding, support, and laughter—setting the tone for a fantastic journey ahead.

Day 1: Arrival in Addis Ababa – A Taste of Ethiopia

Our journey to Ethiopia kicked off with an amusing twist. As we landed in Addis Ababa, Suman had a minor technical hiccup with his visa at immigration. While the rest of us breezed through, we couldn’t help but crack a few jokes—though Suman had to stay deadly serious to make it through the process! Thankfully, he got cleared soon enough, and the adventure began.

We headed straight to Triple-E Hotel and Spa, where we were welcomed with our first authentic Ethiopian experience: the traditional coffee ceremony. Ethiopia, often celebrated as the birthplace of coffee, truly elevates coffee drinking into an art form. The aroma of freshly roasted beans filled the air, and the scent of burning frankincense added a spiritual calm to the atmosphere. Surprisingly, despite drinking coffee on an empty stomach, none of us experienced discomfort—just a deep appreciation for its smooth, rich flavor.

Later in the evening, we explored Ethiopian cuisine at 2000 Habesha Cultural Restaurant, recommended by our wonderful local counterpart, Ms. Selam. The ambiance was vibrant, with traditional décor and a warm buzz of conversation.

We tasted Injera, a soft, fermented flatbread made from Teff flour—which reminded us of Ragi Dosa—served with an array of vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes. From spicy Berbere and Mimita chutney powders to flavorful greens like collard and cabbage, the spread was as colorful as it was delicious. The non-veg dishes featured succulent beef, mutton, and chicken, each bursting with spices unique to Ethiopian cuisine.

A real highlight of the evening was Tej, Ethiopia’s traditional honey wine. Made from fermented honey and gesho (an Ethiopian hop), it was served in a distinctive vase-like vessel called a berele. Sweet, smooth, and unlike anything we’d tried before, Tej added the perfect finishing touch to the evening.

As we dined, we were treated to a live performance of Ethiopian music and traditional dances—an immersive experience that brought the country’s rich culture to life. From the very first day, Ethiopia welcomed us with open arms and unmatched hospitality. The laughter, the Tej, the warmth—it all clicked. We returned to the hotel full, happy, and completely bonded as a team. Safe to say, we crashed for the night with hearts full and excitement brimming for what lay ahead.

That said, our first impression of the hotel had a few bumps—some of the rooms weren’t as clean as expected. But since it was just for a day, we decided to overlook it for the time being and focus on the journey ahead.

Day 2: Exploring Business & Tourism Opportunities in Ethiopia

The morning started off on a rather stressful note. Teja discovered dirty water flowing from the tap, and midway through my shower, the water stopped entirely. I had to resort to collecting water from the washbasin using a bottle just to finish up. For a hotel claiming to be 4-star, this was a huge letdown—it didn’t even feel worthy of a 2-star rating. Suman and I immediately decided to shift us to Best Western, as we couldn’t risk compromising the comfort and experience of a business delegation.

The hotel staff wasn’t pleased with our early checkout, especially since the stay had already been fully paid for. They assured us they would rectify the issues, but I had to firmly explain that I simply couldn’t afford to have my team stay there under those conditions. Breakfast didn’t help the case either—limited options and average service. So we packed up and moved on and refund we still haven’t received for the remaining days yet.

Once we left the hotel chaos behind, the day began to turn around. We had the privilege of meeting with Ministry of Tourism officials, followed by an insightful discussion with the President of the Ethiopian Tour Operators Association, who shared invaluable perspectives on Ethiopia’s thriving travel industry.

We also visited the Ethiopian Chamber of Commerce and Sectoral Associations, one of the oldest chambers in Africa. It was heartwarming to learn about the expansive business opportunities the country offers and the Chamber’s vital role in facilitating international trade and economic growth.

The evening ended on a delightful note—pizzas with green chili chutney at Best Western Plus Addis Ababa. I know what you’re thinking, but trust me—the bold, zesty kick of the chutney gave the classic dish a surprisingly delicious twist!

Later, we dined at Ethiopian Skylight, where we indulged in authentic Ethiopian cuisine paired with Rift Valley wines—which, by the way, were absolutely outstanding. It was yet another unforgettable culinary experience that deepened our appreciation for Ethiopia’s rich flavors and traditions.

Day 3: Exploring Bole-Lemi Industrial Park & Key Business Encounters

Our third day in Addis Ababa began with a focused visit to Bole-Lemi Industrial Park, a hub of industrial innovation and government-backed support. We received an in-depth orientation from the park’s management, who walked us through the impressive infrastructure, incentives, and facilitation mechanisms available to investors—especially in the manufacturing sector.

To gain a practical perspective, we requested a meeting with an Indian enterprise operating within the park. That led us to an impromptu yet extremely valuable visit to Ashton Apparel, where we were warmly received by Mr. Suresh T.K., Country Manager. He generously took us on a factory tour and shared his insights on Ethiopia’s work ethic, investor-friendly environment, and growing efficiency. His confidence in the local ecosystem reaffirmed our belief in Ethiopia as a rising investment destination.

Over lunch at Om Indian Bistro, we had an unexpected yet delightful encounter with the Minister of Foreign Affairs of Ethiopia. Though brief, his warm welcome and kind words left a lasting impression on us, adding a personal diplomatic touch to our visit.

Our next stop was the stunning Haile Grand Hotel, owned by none other than Ethiopian legend and Olympian-turned-entrepreneur Mr. Haile Gebrselassie. We had the honor of meeting his spouse and Group CEO, Ms. Alem Gebrselassie, who engaged us in an enlightening conversation about the growth of Ethiopia’s hospitality industry. From customer service to inventory systems and staff development, their dedication to excellence was evident. Their passion for uplifting the standard of Ethiopian hospitality left us inspired and thoughtful about potential collaborations in this space.

Later in the evening, we caught up with Mr. Abedul, CEO of Mehbub General Trading PLC, a key player in IT consulting and digital transformation projects—some even in collaboration with the Ethiopian government. Our discussion delved into emerging tech opportunities, skill-building initiatives, and the nation’s untapped digital potential. It was a reminder of how Ethiopia is not just growing in traditional sectors, but also making strides in the IT world.

We wrapped up our long day with a relaxing dinner, followed by an invite from Mr. Abedul to join him for sheesha at a VIP lounge. We opted for the mint flavor, and unlike in many other countries, the experience was smooth and pleasant—even after two to three hours. Curious about the difference, we learned it was thanks to the high-quality Ethiopian coal, which makes the sheesha burn cleaner and milder, without throat irritation.

Though we had to cut the night short due to an early morning ahead, the entire day was a beautiful blend of business exploration, cultural immersion, and meaningful connections. Ethiopia continues to surprise us—in the best ways.

Day 4: Exploring Ethiopia’s Business and Trade Landscape

Our day began with a B2B meeting at Radiant Health Club, where we sat down with Mr. Enoke, Mr. Samuel from Arts Sports, and Mr. Tomy from EDF to understand their requirements for fitness equipment. After a detailed site visit and needs assessment, the discussions proved highly productive, laying a strong foundation for potential collaborations in the health and wellness sector—a space that’s visibly gaining traction in Ethiopia.

Our next stop was the Ministry of Mines, where we had an enlightening conversation with Ms. Sophia. She walked us through the dynamics of Ethiopia’s mining sector, including investment potential and regulatory frameworks. The highlight of our visit was the ministry’s in-house museum, a surprisingly well-curated showcase of Ethiopia’s rich mineral diversity. From opals to industrial minerals, it was a vivid reminder of the country’s untapped geological wealth.

The learning didn’t stop there. We then visited Mr. Ambaw from Hamdail PLC, who gave us a first-hand look into the operational side of the mining industry. His office featured a fascinating display of minerals extracted directly from his mine, providing us with an immersive crash course in Ethiopia’s mining realities. His passion and practical experience were deeply inspiring.

Later in the afternoon, we headed to the Ministry of Trade, where we visited the Ethiopian Export Exhibition Centre Museum. It was a well-organized and insightful stop that highlighted Ethiopia’s major export commodities—from coffee and spices to leather, textiles, and floriculture. This visit gave us a more structured understanding of Ethiopia’s trade potential and how its export strategies are evolving in the global market.

We ended this high-impact day with a relaxing dinner at the Sheraton Addis, indulging in good food and reflecting on the vast potential we had just witnessed across multiple industries. Needless to say, after a long and insightful day, we crashed for the night—our minds buzzing with ideas and opportunities Ethiopia has to offer.

Day 5: Navigating Trade, Investment & Culture in Ethiopia

After a quick breakfast, our day kicked off with a meeting with Mr. Girma Moges from SG Import Export PLC, where we dove into the realities of trade in Ethiopia, a landlocked nation reliant on efficient logistics. Mr. Girma offered key insights into how commerce is channeled through Djibouti, Ethiopia’s primary maritime gateway. He also recommended reliable logistics partners, including DHL and the Ethiopian Shipping and Logistics Services Enterprise, ensuring that transportation of goods remains seamless despite geographical challenges.

Our next stop was the Ethiopian Investment Commission (EIC). We were welcomed by Mr. Johannes, who gave us a comprehensive overview of Ethiopia’s investment landscape. He highlighted the priority sectors, explained investor incentives, and emphasized the EIC’s strong aftercare support—a crucial aspect for any foreign entity looking to establish a sustainable presence in the country.

Following this, we proceeded to the Ministry of Health, where we had an in-depth discussion with Dr. Elubabor Buno Teko. The conversation centered on investment opportunities in Ethiopia’s healthcare sector, especially in areas such as medical infrastructure, equipment, pharmaceuticals, and skill development. It was a productive session that opened new avenues for potential collaboration.

To wrap up our business meetings, we made our way to the 14th Ethio-Chamber International Trade Fair at the Addis Ababa Exhibition Centre. Though the event was winding down, we managed to explore a few exhibits, interact with local entrepreneurs, and pick up some memorable souvenirs to take back home.

The evening was reserved for a cultural deep dive. We headed to Yod Abyssinia, a popular destination known for authentic Ethiopian cuisine, traditional music, and live dance performances. The place was vibrant and packed, with both locals and foreigners soaking in the electric atmosphere. As the music picked up, several guests—including a few from our own group—couldn’t resist joining the dancers on stage, adding an unexpected but delightful twist to the evening. It was the perfect cultural send-off, reinforcing the warmth and spirit of Ethiopia.

Day 6: Insights into ICT, Innovation, Healthcare, and Trade

Our final day of engagements in Ethiopia began with a focused session with the Cyber Security Services team. This meeting gave us a solid overview of Ethiopia’s ICT landscape, particularly around the government’s policies for securing digital infrastructure and fostering a safe, regulated cyber environment. Their commitment to digital safety, especially as the country accelerates its digital transformation, was both reassuring and inspiring.

Following that, we met Dr. Simenew Keskes, Advisor to the Ministry of Innovation and Technology. His insights shed light on the Ethiopian government’s vision for innovation and technological advancement, with a strong emphasis on capacity building, tech entrepreneurship, and international collaboration. It was clear that Ethiopia is actively laying the groundwork for a tech-driven future.

In a pleasant surprise, we had an impromptu meeting with Mr. Addis Alemayehou, Chairman of Kazana Group, a prominent name in Ethiopia’s private sector. He offered real-world insights into doing business in Ethiopia, including how to navigate regulatory frameworks, manage local partnerships, and tap into emerging sectors. His candid advice was especially valuable as it bridged the gap between policy and practical implementation.

To cap off the formal engagements, Mr. Ambaw generously hosted us for a Japanese dinner, offering a relaxing and flavorful break from our packed schedule.

Later in the evening, we experienced a different side of Addis—its vibrant nightlife—with a visit to Sheraton Addis for clubbing. The music, ambiance, and energy gave us a taste of how the city unwinds after hours, making it a fitting end to a day filled with learning and connection.

Day 7: Departure & Key Business Outcomes

As our enriching journey in Ethiopia drew to a close, we squeezed in one final meeting with Mr. Murugan Duraisamy, Secretary of the Tamil Sangam in Ethiopia. His gracious hospitality and unwavering assurance of support for our future business and investment efforts in the country left us with a sense of comfort and confidence. It was a fitting reminder of how vibrant and supportive the Indian diaspora is in Ethiopia.

Before making our way to the airport, we managed a quick souvenir stop—picking up some authentic Ethiopian coffee, a flavorful reminder of our time here. This short detour also led us to the La Gare Train Station, where we came across a charming old train bogie turned into a coffee shop. It was a beautiful fusion of Ethiopia’s rich heritage and creative spirit—a small but symbolic moment that perfectly captured the essence of this incredible country.

With hearts full of memories and minds buzzing with opportunities, it was finally time to bid farewell to Ethiopia—at least for now.

Āmeseginalehu – Thank you, Ethiopia.
Until we meet again.

November 13, 2024

A Whirlwind Trip to the USA: Business, Friends and a bit of Nostalgia

Filed under: International Travel — jani @ 7:44 pm

This trip to the USA was a spontaneous one, planned just a day before departure to take care of some urgent banking matters. It had been nearly nine years since my last visit, and while the trip came up suddenly, I felt more prepared this time. I booked a business class ticket on Air India, allowing me to relax and stretch out, even though the “Maharaja service” didn’t quite meet my expectations due to older aircrafts. After a brief layover in Delhi, I was on my way to New York.

New York Arrival

After 13 hours of flight, Arriving at JFK, I was greeted by a long immigration line, which gave me over an hour to catch up on calls. Once I made it through, Aakash, who had come to pick me up, was waiting. The coordination was thanks to Aparna, who played middleman via FaceTime, since Aakash typically uses only that app and often misses WhatsApp messages. It was heartwarming to see Aparna’s son, now grown up and studying at university—time really does fly!

I stayed at the Red Roof PLUS+ in Garden City, close to Aakash. After checking in, we headed straight to Banl of America, then Chase Bank, followed by HSBC to take care of my banking errands. Once everything was sorted, Aakash dropped me off, and I wrapped up the day with a quick trip to a nearby mall to buy an electronic converter.

Memphis

The following morning, I flew from LaGuardia to Memphis to reunite with some old friends. Krishna picked me up, and we checked into the Residence Inn Memphis in Germantown. Srini joined us later, and it felt as though no time had passed since we last saw each other. That evening, we enjoyed dinner at a Mexican restaurant and drinks at Rockhouse Live. Krishna had an early business flight the next morning, but we made the most of our time together.

The next day, I took care of some work tasks before heading to Bank of America again. Without Uber available, I had to wait for a bit but eventually made it back to the hotel. Later, I had a surprise catch-up with Anil, who was in town from Florida. It was great to reconnect after all these years.

Next Day, Srini and I took a scenic drive to Tanger Outlets, where we spent a leisurely day shopping. After a few productive hours, we returned to Memphis, feeling grateful for the time to relax and catch up.

Back to New York

With more errands to complete in New York, I flew from Memphis to New Jersey, followed by a two-and-a-half-hour Uber ride back into the city. I tackled banking tasks at HSBC, Chase, and Wells Fargo, grabbed a burger, and then made my way back to Memphis, checking into my hotel near midnight for some well-deserved rest.

Memphis – Part Two

Krishna was back in town, so we headed out to Tanger Outlets in Mississippi once again. Krishna, the enthusiastic shopper, guided me through the stores, making it a productive day. Later, we met Srini and his wife for a delicious lunch at their house before heading out.

Raleigh Reunion

After Memphis, I flew to Raleigh to reconnect with Sala, Geetha, and Hasna. Sala picked me up, and it felt wonderful to be surrounded by close friends again—like being with family. Our days were a blend of laughter, nostalgia, and a few work tasks, with visits to every Chase bank branch we could find almost daily. We also enjoyed homemade meals served on banana leaves, which brought back memories of home.

I reconnected with Noor, who originally introduced me to Sala and the rest of our circle back during our IBM days. One evening, we gathered at Noor’s home to meet his family and savor his spouse’s famous biryani. This time, Sala and Noor prepared it under her watchful guidance, and it was a special evening filled with great food and even better company.

I also had the pleasure of meeting Sandhya, Pradeep, and their family, adding new friends to the mix. Our days together were filled with laughter and fun outings, including a trip to Costco for some shopping. We also visited the beautiful JC Raulston Arboretum, where we admired the lush greenery and blooms, reminiscent of our earlier adventures in Masinagudi. Over the weekend, we visited the North Carolina Museum of Art, soaking in the exhibits and enjoying each other’s company.

Farewell for Now

After a week in Raleigh, it was time to say goodbye. I had a flight to Thailand for an upcoming conference, and though I wished I could have stayed longer, I promised my friends I’d return and catch up with more friends in Texas on my next visit.

This spontaneous trip to the USA turned out to be a heartwarming reunion with friends old and new. Thanks, USA, for the memories and reconnections—I’ll be back soon!

Qatar – Inland Sea & Dunes

Filed under: International Travel — jani @ 5:50 pm

Qatar, a stunning peninsular Arab country with its sweeping desert landscape and scenic Persian Gulf coastline, became my unexpected destination during a 13-hour layover on my return from the U.S. Since I was traveling business class with Qatar Airways, I enjoyed the full hospitality of the Doha airport, including access to the exclusive arrival lounge for business and first-class travelers. It was a welcome relief after a long journey, and I took the chance to freshen up with a shower before heading out.

Applying for a Quick Visa and Planning My Tour

I learned that with Discover Qatar’s help, obtaining a visa was quick and easy, right from the transit area. After the formalities, I decided to explore two private tours: “Discover the Desert and Inland Sea” and “Discover Doha, Your Way.”

Desert Adventure: Inland Sea and Dunes

The desert tour took us through the stunning Qatari sand dunes on an exhilarating private drive. Although I was exhausted from my travels and a lingering headache, the sight of the inland sea nestled in the golden sands was breathtakingly beautiful—a true postcard moment. We took a short break to sip some juice and absorb the view, which offered a moment of calm amid the vast desert.

Discovering Doha: A Glimpse of the City’s Rich Culture

Next, I joined the city tour, “Discover Doha, Your Way,” and our first stop was the Museum of Islamic Art. Unfortunately, the museum was closed, but I enjoyed the views along the Corniche and took in the midday sunshine. We then headed to the Dhow Harbor, where the sight of traditional boats sparked a sense of nostalgia and reminded me of my hometown.

Our visit to the Katara Traditional Dhows Museum was a highlight, offering an insightful look into Qatar’s maritime history. Afterward, I stopped by Chac’late for a warming cup of hot chocolate and even found time to visit a mosque, where visitors are welcomed. Exploring the peaceful campus on a quick buggy ride, I admired the local food store’s tempting collection of regional delicacies, including cheese and more.

Finally, we visited a nearby souk, where I picked up perfumes as souvenirs before heading back to the airport. Although the layover was brief, it was rich with experiences that gave me a taste of Qatar’s warm hospitality and unique culture.

Shukran, Qatar—Until Next Time!

October 19, 2024

Koh Samui:(Thailand) The Coconut Island

Filed under: International Travel — jani @ 3:10 pm

 

Koh Samui is Thailand’s second-largest island, is a tropical paradise known for its palm-fringed beaches, coconut groves, and lush, mountainous rainforests. The island is renowned for its pristine landscapes, offering a perfect mix of natural beauty and modern luxury.

Visa-Free Travel for Indian Citizens

For Indian travelers, visiting Koh Samui is now even more convenient with the visa-free entry policy, making travel to this tropical destination hassle-free.

Day 1: Arrival in Bangkok

After rescheduling my flight due to delays from the US, I finally arrived in Bangkok via Thai Airways. Despite being exhausted from four consecutive days of travel, the airline’s ground staff were helpful, and I found the silk class lounge in Chennai surprisingly good for rest. However, upon landing, the visa-free entry for Indian citizens made the process smoother, though the slow luggage retrieval added to the exhaustion.

I checked into the Mandarin Hotel Bangkok, managed by Centre Point, freshened up, and had a quick bite before heading to a conference. Unfortunately, I had booked an extra room due to a last-minute delegate cancellation, but neither Agoda nor the hotel could assist with a refund. Despite the long and tiring day, the conference was highly productive, where I connected with several synergy partners, and a few coffee breaks kept me going.

Day 2: A Relaxed Day in Bangkok

The second day was more laid-back, starting with a leisurely breakfast and a couple of meetings. Lunch at the hotel was a bit disappointing, but the event’s official photographer, Mr. Sagara, took some personal photo sessions before we headed to Platinum Fashion Mall for shopping. I enjoyed fresh juices like tender coconut water and avocado shakes from nearby juice bars.

Dinner was at Sardarji Restaurant, where I enjoyed a variety of delicious Indian dishes, including kulcha, naan, mutton, and fish tikka. I ended the evening at a nearby bar before returning to the hotel for much-needed rest.

Day 3: Departure for Koh Samui

After a restful night, I packed up for my journey to Koh Samui. Despite requesting an hour extension for checkout, the hotel denied it, leading to a rushed departure. Unfortunately, in my haste, I left some belongings behind, which I realized only upon reaching Koh Samui.

I boarded Bangkok Airways, where the food, especially the dessert, was a pleasant surprise. Upon arrival at Koh Samui’s small airport, I quickly checked into Nora Beach Resort & Spa. The staff were accommodating and helped me with a last-minute room cancellation, which was much appreciated after a long day.

Day 4: Wild Jungle Safari in Koh Samui

Feeling the effects of my travels, I started the day with a light breakfast of yogurt and fruits before heading out for a Wild Jungle Safari tour. However, the bumpy ride, combined with uncomfortable seating, left me with a headache and backache. Despite this, I visited several iconic spots:

  • Wat Plailaem: A Buddhist temple featuring shrines dedicated to Ganesha and a Chinese goddess.
  • Hin Ta & Hin Yai Rocks: Unique rock formations by the beach.
  • Na Muang Waterfalls: A small but scenic waterfall, though the area was slippery.
  • Wat Khunaram: The temple housing the mummified monk, Luang Pho Daeng.
  • Secret Buddha Garden: A private sculpture park with beautifully landscaped gardens.

After the tour, I was exhausted and went straight to bed.

Day 5: Mu Ko Ang Thong Cruise

Despite still feeling unwell, I embarked on the Mu Ko Ang Thong National Park Cruise, an island-hopping adventure. Although kayaking was available, I opted not to participate. Our first stop was Ko Wua Ta Lap Island, where I rested on the beach while others hiked. Lunch was served on the boat, which was decent.

At Ka Sam Sao, a snorkeling and kayaking spot, I chose to relax instead of joining the activities. After returning to the hotel, I treated myself to a wonderful massage at Eranda Herbal Spa, which helped alleviate my backache.

Day 6: Departure from Koh Samui and Quick Bangkok Tour

After a good night’s sleep, I checked out of the hotel and headed to Samui Airport, where I admired the outdoor layout with its shops and open spaces. Upon arrival in Bangkok, the driver kindly brought my forgotten belongings from the Mandarin Hotel.

With a long layover before my flight to India, I visited the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market. Unfortunately, the dirty water and vendors washing dishes in it made the experience less enjoyable. I then visited MBK Mall to pick up some Korean accessories and clothes before heading to the airport.

At the Thai Airways counter, the staff showed little interest in my upgrade request. Since the flight was departing from the S terminal, there was no Silk Lounge available. Luckily, I had a Priority Pass and made use of another lounge, though it was a complete letdown.

After a long journey, I finally landed in India, only to face a luggage mix-up. Thankfully, I was able to exchange the suitcase and head home, marking the end of my whirlwind trip.

Khob Khun Kha – Thank you, Thailand!

 

September 14, 2024

Indonesia – The land of Islands

Filed under: International Travel — jani @ 10:46 am

Indonesia, officially the Republic of Indonesia, is a Southeast Asian and Oceanian country located between the Indian and Pacific oceans. It consists of over 17,000 islands, including Sumatra, Java, Sulawesi, and parts of Borneo and New Guinea, making it the world’s largest archipelagic state.

Visa:
Visas can be obtained on arrival, and e-visas are available before travel. We used Ross Escapes, who arranged our e-visas, making the arrival process smoother.

Day 1:
This was a last-minute trip, and although a few more friends were supposed to join, it ended up being just Suman, Andrew, and myself. We met at the airport for our journey to Bali via Singapore. Flying with Singapore Airlines was a great experience, as always, with excellent hospitality. We had a layover in Singapore, where we switched terminals and boarded the next flight to Bali.

Day 2:
We arrived in Bali in the afternoon and were greeted by LH Travels team before heading off to a meeting. Afterward, we had Nasi Padang for lunch—a traditional dish from West Sumatra, consisting of steamed rice served with a variety of pre-cooked dishes. Post lunch, we traveled to Ubud and checked in at the Visesa Ubud Resort. The welcoming ceremony included ringing a bell and tying a colorful sacred thread, a tradition I participated in since Suman and Andrew had already experienced it during their previous visit.

Our villa was stunning, complete with a private pool and surrounded by lush greenery, including Frangipani trees, which are considered essential in every home. Later, Suman and I went to explore the Ubud market while Andrew rested. The market had a lively atmosphere with lots of shopping options. We stopped at a café for cappuccinos and croissants, which were exceptional—strong and flavorful.

In the evening, we dined at the hotel’s Lumbung restaurant, enjoying authentic Indonesian dishes such as chicken satays, red snapper soup, tuna salad, and barramundi before calling it a night.

Day 3:
It was another beautiful day. After a good rest, we all met at Lesung Restaurant for breakfast. Although the options were limited, we had a quick bite and then set off for Mount Batur. The drive to Batur was scenic, with mandarin orange orchards lining the route.

At Mount Batur, an active volcano, we stopped at Okuta Restaurant, which offered stunning views of the volcano and the nearby Psar Seni Geopark. We also sampled a variety of teas, including Hot Moody, Hot Magic Wood, and a unique crème brûlée latte.

Next, we visited Besakih Temple, located on the slopes of Mount Agung. Known as the “Mother Temple” of Bali, it is the largest and most sacred temple of Balinese Hinduism. The temple, made of lava stones, is especially grand during the full moon festival. While I prayed at the temple, Andrew and Suman relaxed with Bintang Beer, which, as a beer lover, I found to be one of the best I’ve tasted. Later, I joined them and enjoyed a refreshing coconut water, which, like in India, is sweet and delicious.

Our next stop was Penglipuran, a traditional village where each house sells local products. It was a picturesque place, and after exploring, we headed to Bamboo Forest for a local lunch. By evening, we were back in Ubud. We were dropped off at the market and took a relaxing walk back to the resort. Everyone was too tired for dinner, so we called it a night.

Day 4:
This was the day we checked out of Visesa Ubud Resort and made our way to Kuta. After a quick breakfast, we departed and stopped at Ulun Danu Beratan Temple, which sits on the water. The temple complex also features a beautifully maintained park, making it a serene place to visit.

Our next stop was Handara Golf and Resort, a stunning property that’s perfect for golf enthusiasts. We enjoyed a coffee break there before continuing on to Gending Kedis Luxury Villas & Spa Estate, where we checked in.

Since I had plans to attend the Kecak Dance, a traditional Balinese Hindu performance, I left my luggage at the reception and headed out while Suman and Andrew continued their work. I arrived just in time for the dance, which tells the story of Sita’s kidnapping, Hanuman’s search for her, and her eventual return.

After the performance, I returned to the hotel for dinner and then made my way to my room. It was quite an experience as my room was 3 to 4 levels below the ground floor, near the edge of the forest. Every evening after dark, I would ask one of the hotel staff to accompany me to the room due to its secluded location. I then settled in for the night.

Day 5:
I started the day early to catch the Bali Dolphin Cruise to Nusa Penida, a breathtakingly beautiful island. Our first stop was Kelingking Beach, where the views from the top were absolutely stunning. Although we didn’t have time to go down to the beach, the scenic vista alone was worth the visit.

Next, we headed to Angela Billabong Beach, where we were lucky enough to spot a couple of dolphins playing in the water, adding to the spectacular view. Afterward, we visited Broken Beach, a spot that seemed perfect for a movie shoot with its dramatic landscapes. We took a short coconut break before continuing to Crystal Beach, where people were sunbathing, swimming, and enjoying the relaxed atmosphere.

After our time at Nusa Penida, we returned to the mainland and visited GWK Cultural Park, home to the towering Garuda Wisnu Kencana statue, a 121-meter representation of the Hindu god Vishnu and his mount, the Garuda bird. The park also featured cultural activities, including traditional Balinese dance performances like the Kecak Garuda Wisnu Dance. I explored the park’s museum before heading back.

In the evening, I went to New Moon Café and Restaurant in Jimbaran for dinner. We sat on the beach and enjoyed a seafood platter with my driver and guide, making it a perfect end to the day.

Day 6:
We started the day with a quick breakfast at the hotel, which had set menus to choose from. Afterward, we visited the UC Silver and Gold Factory in Batubulan, known for its impressive collection of accessories made from silver and gold, along with various precious stones. It was fascinating to explore the craftsmanship behind the jewelry.

Next, we visited a Batik Factory, where we learned about the traditional art of painting on fabric. I picked up some local fabrics as souvenirs. Our next stop was Jambe Asriagro Tourism, where I had the chance to try Luwak coffee, which has a unique production process involving coffee cherries digested by the Asian palm civet. In addition to Luwak coffee, they offered samples of other teas like herbal tea, roselle tea and mangosteen tea, as well as different coffees like avocado coffee and vanilla coffee.

After enjoying the coffee, we visited Tanah Lot Temple, a picturesque temple located near the beach. We also saw the holy snake and experienced the holy water. The view from the temple was stunning, especially with the beach in the background.

For lunch, we headed to Kurnia Village, where we had a traditional Balinese meal. While the duck curry wasn’t particularly appetizing, the rest of the food was delicious, and I really enjoyed the soursop juice. Afterward, we visited Seminyak Beach for some ice cream and then walked along the shore to Kuta Beach.

We ended the day with a quick dinner back at the hotel before resting for the night.

Day 7:
It was another beautiful day, and after a quick breakfast, we headed to Taman Safari Bali. We took a safari tour and attended a few shows, including the Tiger Show and Elephant Show, where they discussed the interesting topic of human-animal conflict. This was my first time seeing a wildebeest in person. The safari also featured animals like giraffes, Sumatran elephants (which are shorter than other elephant species), lions, tigers, bison, and even an albino python.

After the safari, we visited the stunning Tegenungan Waterfall. We took a short tea break nearby before heading to Kebune Bali Agro Tourism, where I indulged in more Luwak coffee. Not far from there was the Kemenuh Butterfly Park, which also had a beautiful collection of orchids.

Later, we went to Uma Anyar Waterfall, which required a mini hike, but it was an easy walk. The waterfall was breathtaking, and we spent some time enjoying the serene atmosphere. Afterward, we headed back to the room to relax.

In the evening, I caught up with Andrew and Suman for a few minutes, as Andrew was leaving early the next day.

Day 8:
I woke up and started the day with a relaxing Balinese massage at Piramid Spa—a fantastic experience. Afterward, I returned, packed my bags, and checked out of the hotel. For lunch, we went to BE Ja NA at Nusa Dua, and then headed to Mal Bali Galeria to pass some time before our evening flight. The mall had a good selection of brands for shopping and several restaurants to choose from. We relaxed at Tous Les Jours, enjoying a nice coffee and a milky bun.

Later, we made our way to the airport for our flight back. It was a smooth process, and we boarded Singapore Airlines. Unfortunately, we realized there was an issue with Suman’s ticket—his second leg was mistakenly booked for the night instead of the morning. Thankfully, the airline staff were gracious enough to change his ticket to the same morning flight as mine, and with that concern resolved, we rested during the long layover.

Day 9:
With not much sleep, it was time to board our flight home. After a quick coffee, we boarded our return flight. Once we landed, I dropped off Suman and finally headed home.

PS: If anyone is looking for budget travel, Bali is an excellent destination, especially if you’re based in India. The people here are incredibly nice and hospitable. I wouldn’t mind visiting again, as there are still many places to explore. Also, I recommend getting an e-visa, as even with it, the queue was quite long after landing.

TERIMA KASIH – MATUR SUKSMA – THANK YOU

July 13, 2024

Kazakhstan, a hidden Gem in Central Asia

Filed under: International Travel — jani @ 7:35 am

About Kazakhstan

Kazakhstan is a Central Asian country and a former Soviet republic. It is known for its rich history and cultural heritage. The largest city, Almaty, is a significant trading hub and the old capital of the country.

Visa Information

For Indian nationals, Kazakhstan offers a visa on arrival, which is also gratis.

Day 1: Arrival

The trip was a spontaneous decision sparked by an offer from Shailendra Jain of Klassico Holidays. Despite the short notice, we decided to take advantage of the last-minute deal, appreciating the chance to explore a new country without extensive planning. Our journey to Almaty began with an early morning flight via Sharjah, as there are no direct flights from our location. We arrived in Almaty by the afternoon.

At the airport, we were greeted by Mr. Erkebulan, a university student who doubles as a chauffeur and guide to earn extra income. Communicating with him was an interesting experience since most locals speak Kazakh or Russian. We relied on a translator app to facilitate our conversations. We checked into the Ramada by Wyndham, where we had a chance to freshen up before heading out for dinner. Originally, Mr. Erkebulan planned to take us to Sandyq Restaurant. However, due to it being fully booked, we had to find an alternative and ended up at Tary Sai Dasturi. The restaurant offered a great dining experience, and I was eager to try local dishes. Upon learning that horsemeat is a local delicacy, I decided to give it a try. The horsemeat was well-cooked, though a bit bland for my taste. Sur, opted for a bread basket and green salad, which he found satisfactory. Their Apple Celery lemonade was the best.

After dinner, we took a stroll nearby to find an electrical converter. Despite having a converter with us, it didn’t fit the Kazakh switchboards, which have small, round plug points. We had to purchase a new converter from a nearby gas station to use our other devices. With the converter issue resolved, we returned to our hotel and settled in for the night, ready for the adventures that the next day would bring.

Day 2: Exploring Almaty

After a good night’s rest, we stepped out to explore more of Almaty.

Our first stop was the Green Bazaar, a bustling street shopping area perfect for picking up local goods and souvenirs. It offered a decent street shopping experience with a variety of items.

Next, we headed to Panfilov Park, named in honor of the Panfilov Heroes who defended Moscow against the German army in 1941 during World War II. Within the park, there is an eternal flame commemorating these heroes. We paid our respects there.

Also known as Zenkov Cathedral, this Russian Orthodox cathedral is located in Panfilov Park. Completed in 1907, it is made entirely out of wood without any nails, standing 56 meters tall and reputed to be the second tallest wooden church in the world. It is a stunning structure and one of the most beautiful churches I have seen recently. Visitors are required to cover their heads inside the church. The park is filled with beautiful greenery and various flower gardens, my favorite being the rose gardens. Unlike in India, where a single stem typically has a single flower, in Kazakhstan, even the larger roses grow in bunches, creating a beautiful sight.

Throughout our travels, we saw the Big Almaty peak of the northern slope of the Tian Shan range of Zailiysky Alatau. Behind it, we could see snow-capped mountains, which I heard were in China.

For lunch, we dined at Navat Restaurant, which specializes in Turkish cuisine. However, we opted for Beshbarmak, the national dish of the Nomads, consisting of horsemeat served with noodle dough made from flour. We also tried Chalap, a drink similar to plain buttermilk, which was refreshing.

Post lunch, we headed to Arbat Street, a vibrant area filled with shopping and entertainment. It would have been better to visit in the late evening when the street comes alive. Nonetheless, we enjoyed the various paintings on display.

In the evening, we returned to the Ramada in-house bar, where we ordered a fish platter and a cheese platter. The fish consisted mostly of cold cuts, which was interesting but not to everyone’s taste. The cheese platter included Tenili cheese, which we were trying for the first time—it was flaky and extremely thin, it looked like a bunch of cotton balls, we also tried Qurt, which looks like white chocolate truffle and made from strained yogurt.

After a fulfilling day of sightseeing and culinary exploration, we retired for the night, ready for more adventures.

Day 3: Mountain Adventures and City Exploration

After a good rest, we headed to Shymbulak Mountain Resort. We took a scenic cable car ride to reach the resort, situated at an altitude of 3200 meters above sea level in Talgar Pass. The altitude made me feel a bit dizzy, but the backdrop of snowy mountains and the breathtaking views made it worth it. At Talgar Pass, we visited a café designed like a yurt. A yurt is a portable, circular dwelling made of a lattice of flexible poles covered in felt or other fabric, traditionally used by Kazakh people. The interiors were aesthetically pleasing, and we enjoyed some tea before heading down as it started to drizzle.

Next, we headed to Kok Tobe, a mountain in Almaty that features Kók Tóbe Park, a popular recreation area. Kok Tobe is a major landmark and a favorite among tourists. We took photos in traditional Kazakh costumes, did some shopping, and enjoyed a ride on the giant wheel. The rose garden here was particularly beautiful, and we spent some time admiring it. The park also had a small zoo with a few animals and birds.

After Kok Tobe, we visited Republic Square and walked around, soaking in the city’s atmosphere. We then headed to First President Park, which features a beautiful fountain. We saw children playing in the designated area of the fountain, beating the heat and having fun.

After a day filled with mountain adventures and city exploration, we returned to our hotel and checked in at Samal Resort & Spa as I was extending for another few days

Day 4: Adventure at Oi-Qaragai Ski Resort

On my last day, we headed to Oi-Qaragai, a ski resort known for its stunning views and outdoor activities. To get there, we took an open cable car, which, while offering beautiful views, might not be suitable for those with a fear of heights due to its low and exposed path. As we ascended, we were treated to breathtaking views of the landscape below and spotted beautiful horses grazing around the area. The resort itself offers various types of accommodation nestled in the forest, adding to its charm. Oi-Qaragai has an amazing view and several activities for visitors. We took some time to explore the resort, soaking in the serene atmosphere and picturesque surroundings. It was an exhilarating experience and a great way to wrap up our trip.

Day 5: Natural Wonders of Kazakhstan

It was another beautiful day, perfect for exploring one of Kazakhstan’s stunning lakes, Kolsai Lake, located a few hours outside Almaty. My guide got his best friend who is a dental student and also a boxer. It was interesting to understand the life of youngsters in Kazakhstan The long hours of drive was worth every minute. Upon arrival, we prepared for a little hike to reach the lake. The effort was well rewarded with postcard-perfect views. The serene and pristine lake, surrounded by lush greenery and majestic mountains, was truly breathtaking.

On our way to Kolsai Lake, we encountered fields of silver forever plants, which almost looked like lavender fields. We couldn’t resist stopping to take some pictures of this picturesque scenery.

After enjoying the beauty of Kolsai Lake, we headed to Charyn Canyon. We spent the evening walking through this stunning natural wonder. While there is a buggy available for a 15-minute ride through the canyon, we found it easily walkable and opted for a leisurely stroll to take in the views. During our walk, we also saw the Ephedra plant, which is used in medicine and for making some local drinks.

After our adventures at Kolsai Lake and Charyn Canyon, we returned to our hotel and rested for the night, reflecting on the natural beauty we had experienced.

Day 6: Departure

he day of departure arrived, and I had the chance to meet the Klassico Holidays team. It was nice to have their company, making the journey feel a bit less solitary. The journey home involved taking stopover flights, which was a bit of a hassle. We finally reached home via Sharjah, marking the end of our memorable trip to Kazakhstan.

June 1, 2024

Hong Kong and Macau

Filed under: International Travel — jani @ 7:10 pm

When Sur had a long weekend, we decided on an impromptu trip to Hong Kong and Macau, taking advantage of the visa-on-arrival policy for Indians. Both destinations were on my bucket list, and this spontaneous trip was the perfect opportunity to explore them.

About Hong Kong: Hong Kong, a Special Administrative Region of the People’s Republic of China, is renowned as one of the world’s most significant financial centers and commercial ports. It ranks as the fourth global financial center, ninth-largest exporter, and eighth-largest importer. The Hong Kong dollar is the ninth most traded currency globally.

Visa: Before we proceed, it’s important to note that Hong Kong offers visa on arrival for Indian nationals. However, you need to fill out the pre-arrival registration form, which can be found on the following link (https://www.immd.gov.hk/eng/services/visas/pre-arrival_registration_for_indian_nationals.html) Ensure you carry this form with you while traveling.

About Macau Macau, known as the “Las Vegas of Asia,” is famous for its casinos, luxury hotels, and Portuguese colonial architecture. The city has a unique blend of cultures and offers a vibrant atmosphere with plenty of entertainment options.

Day 1: Arrival and Initial Exploration in Hong Kong

We took a midnight flight with Cathay Pacific and, after 5.30 hours of travel, landed in Hong Kong. The flight experience was good. Once we landed in HK, we noticed the airport was bustling with activity, but we smoothly got through immigration. They handed over an entry stamp sticker along with the immigration form which needs to be kept safe until you exit the country. Upon stepping out, we caught an airport taxi to our hotel, Silka Seaview.

We arrived at the hotel in the morning, hoping for an early check-in. Thankfully, the staff accommodated us, possibly because we had booked a week-long stay. Our room, however, was a stark reminder of Hong Kong’s notorious space constraints—it was tiny, with barely any room for our luggage. The bathroom was even smaller, making it quite challenging to shower or move around. With no sitting area, the bed became our only spot for resting and working.

Hungry and eager to explore, we ventured out for lunch. We found LY Nathan Café in Nathan Street, which quickly became our go-to spot. Sur enjoyed the pineapple bun with fried egg and cheese, while I had the fried pork chop with macaroni soup. We also tried a local hot beverage, watercress honey drink, but found it too sweet for our taste.

After lunch, we headed to the nearby temple, but it was closed. So, we proceeded to the Ladies Market, where I met my friend Varun, who works in Hong Kong. It was wonderful catching up after so many years. Varun helped us get an Octopus card, which is incredibly useful for tourists. It can be used for metro rides and payments at various places, and the balance can be refunded upon departure.

Post getting the Octopus cards, we explored the bustling Ladies Market, enjoying the vibrant atmosphere and myriad stalls. For dinner, Varun took us to Yinlong Tea Restaurant in Mong Kok. I tried the highly recommended beef brisket with noodles, which was delicious. Sur enjoyed his French toast with snow sugar and stuffed peanut butter.

Next, we visited the Wine and Cigar Club to pick up some good cigars and have a couple of drinks. We then went to Wan Chai, where the street was already closed, but we admired the beautiful Chinese lights adorning the area. We took a leisurely walk around and then visited Lockhart Road, known for its nightlife. After soaking in the lively ambiance, we returned to our hotel for a good night’s sleep.

Day 2: Ngong Ping 360 and Lantau Cultural Heritage Tour

Taking Varun’s advice, we pre booked our sightseeing tickets through Klook for the Ngong Ping 360 + Lantau Cultural and Heritage Insight Tour. We reached Tung Chung in the morning and had breakfast at Hong Kong Day. I had beef satay with instant noodles, while Sur opted for turnip pudding with toast and omelette. Unfortunately, Sur didn’t enjoy the turnip pudding.

Next, we headed to the Ngong Ping 360 Cable Car station. We had booked the crystal cabin, which features an ultra-transparent glass floor, offering stunning views below. The 25-minute ride was breathtaking, providing panoramic views of the airport, mountains, and beaches.

Upon arriving at Ngong Ping Village, we took some photos and then boarded a bus to Tai O Fishing Village, the largest island in Lantau. We enjoyed a boat ride through the village, admiring the stilt houses made from imported Indonesian wood and capturing postcard-worthy shots of Sun Ki Bridge. I tried some dried squid from Cat Store (Tai O Dei Mao Li), a local snack that I enjoyed, though Sur stayed far away from it.

We then visited On the Edge Café to try Ottoman Coffee, baklava, and blueberry cheesecake, which Sur particularly enjoyed. We explored the nearby street market and tasted mango matcha donuts. Unfortunately, the mango matcha tasted like raw flour, so we couldn’t eat more than a bite. We also bought sorrel flowers and stems to make tea, which was quite interesting.

Afterward, we visited the Big Buddha Statue, the second-largest of its kind in the world, and the Po Lin Monastery. We spent some time praying and taking in the serene atmosphere before heading back to the cable car point.

We had a delicious meal at Burger Café near the cable car station before boarding the cable car for our return trip. The day was filled with amazing experiences, from the scenic cable car ride to the cultural insights and delicious food. We returned to our hotel with wonderful memories of our second day in Hong Kong.

Day 3: Temples, Museums, and a Light Show Cruise

We started the day by visiting the Yau Ma Tei Tin Hau Temple, conveniently located next to our hotel. The Tin Hau Temple Complex in Kowloon consists of five adjacent buildings: Tin Hau Temple, Shing Wong Temple, Kwun Yum Temple, Shea Tan, and Hsu Yuen. The nearby Temple Street is named after this complex. We explored the park where locals relax and play in the evenings. After offering a prayer in the temple, we headed to our frequent breakfast spot, Li Nathan Café.

Post breakfast, we visited the Hong Kong Museum of History. Although many buildings were closed for renovation, we managed to see the space exhibition, which was fascinating.

Next, we went to the Rooftop Garden at Kowloon Station, a nice place to relax and enjoy the cityscape.

We made a quick visit to the M+ Global Museum of Visual Culture, which features contemporary visual art. We didn’t spend too much time here but appreciated the diverse exhibits.

We took a stroll through the Art Park and stopped at Lucky Star mobile shops for a quick bite. Unfortunately, the hot dogs and waffles were disappointing. We then visited the Palace Museum which were quite interesting and offered rich cultural insights.

I decided to try a local delicacy, bird’s nest with dates and lotus seeds, at Xia Restaurant. It was very sweet, but since it was a new experience, I didn’t want to waste it

We walked along the waterfront, enjoying the beautiful sunset views. To pass the time before our evening cruise, we stopped at Ink Seafood Bar. We had delicious burgers while soaking in the ambiance.

In the evening, we boarded a cruise to watch the Symphony of Lights show. The light show was spectacular, and enjoying it with drinks on the cruise made it a memorable experience. After disembarking, we headed back to our hotel for a well-deserved rest.

Day 4: Ocean Park Adventure and Temple Street Night Market

We initially planned to visit Ocean Park, a popular zoological theme park known for its dry rides. However, we accidentally booked tickets for the Waterfront section instead. Realizing our mistake upon arrival, we purchased the correct tickets for Ocean Park. Fortunately, we could hand over the Waterfront tickets to Varun as they had a longer validity.

We started our day at Ocean Park with a scenic cable car ride. The views were stunning, and it set the tone for an exciting day. Our first stop was the Rainforest Walk, an engaging experience that showcased the Amazon ecosystem. It was fascinating to learn about the diverse flora and fauna.

Next, we visited the aquarium, where we saw seals, black ghost knife fish, and blind cave tetra—creatures we had never seen before. The penguins were a highlight, and we enjoyed watching them from the Tuxedo Restaurant while having lunch.

After lunch, we tried milk with lotus seeds and jellies, an interesting and refreshing treat. We then explored the rides before heading to Old Hong Kong Street. This section was a delightful journey back in time, offering a glimpse into the culture and lifestyle from the 1950s to the 1970s. We sampled some old street food, including dan dan noodles with minced pork and winter melon puff, which were delicious.

While Ocean Park was more kid-oriented and Sur had to take a few work calls, Varun and I decided to explore the Temple Street Night Market in the evening. The market was bustling with activity, and we discovered some Indian stalls. We tasted parotta and chicken curry, which was a pleasant surprise, and did some shopping.

After shopping, we sat nearby and enjoyed a beer, reflecting on the day’s adventures. We then headed back to the hotel to rest and recharge for the next day.

Day 5: Disneyland Hong Kong

was really looking forward to visiting Disneyland Hong Kong, my first Disneyland experience. Although rides usually trigger my headaches, I was eager to experience the magical atmosphere of the park. Despite booking for a weekday, it was still quite crowded. We decided to upgrade our tickets to expedite access to some of the rides, which was a wise decision given the crowd.

The park was a beautiful wonderland, and I was awestruck by the elaborate flower decorations and overall setup. We started our day with a quick bite at Main Street Bakery, enjoying a ham and tuna Danish and a pineapple bun.

Our first attraction was Tarzan’s Treehouse. The boat ride to the treehouse was lovely, and the setup was stunning. Next, we headed to the Grizzly Gulch for the Grizzly Bear ride. I knew I could handle only one crazy ride, and this one was enough for me.

We then visited Mystic Manor, an intriguing ride where you sit in an electric chair that takes you through different themed rooms. It was a unique experience. After that, we watched the PhilharMagic 3D movie, which was quite fascinating.

We took a lunch break, though I didn’t particularly enjoy the seafood soup. After lunch, we went on a Jungle Cruise, which I enjoyed, while Sur took on a few more thrilling rides that I couldn’t handle.

Our last ride was “It’s a Small World,” a gentle boat ride showcasing different cultures from around the world. I found it charming, though Sur seemed bored, giving me a few dirty stares.

Also we saw the parade in the evening which was beautiful

After returning to the hotel, I took Sur to Temple Street Night Market, hoping he could try some Indian dishes. While I relished the parotta, Sur didn’t enjoy his meal as much. We did some shopping and noticed some interesting sex toys being sold near the temple park, which was quite surprising. Most of the tourists were smiling and walking around, adding to the lively and somewhat quirky atmosphere of the market.

We returned to the hotel and crashed for the night, reflecting on the magical yet exhausting day at Disneyland.

Day 6: Madame Tussauds and Cheung Kong Park

We started our day with a trip to Victoria Peak via the tram. The weather was foggy, which limited our visibility at the peak, but we still enjoyed our visit to Madame Tussauds. We took lots of postcard-worthy pictures with the wax figures and Varun was most excited the most to take the pictures and we all had fun despite the foggy view.

After descending from Victoria Peak, we stopped at Pacific Coffee in St. John’s Building. We enjoyed some pastries and tried unique drinks like the rose dragon fruit latte and rose latte, which were delightful.

Next, we headed to Cheung Kong Park, a zoological and botanical garden. The garden was stunning with its variety of flowers, and we loved strolling through the serene environment.

Our walk then took us to Man Mo Temple, dedicated to the Civil or Literature God Man Tai / Man Cheong and the Martial God Mo Tai. The temple’s atmosphere was peaceful and reflective, providing a nice contrast to the bustling city.

For lunch, we went to Le Laksa on Queen’s Street, where we enjoyed delicious Singaporean dishes like chicken and prawn skewers. The food was fantastic and satisfied our cravings for something different.

After lunch, we headed to Golden Arcade for Sur to explore and shop for electronic items. We then visited the Sham Shui Po market, where we did some shopping and soaked in the vibrant market atmosphere.

We also took the time to book our tickets for Macau, ensuring our next adventure was all set.

After a fulfilling day of sightseeing, shopping, and delicious food, we headed back to the hotel to rest and recharge for the next day’s activities.

Day 7: Arrival in Macau

Breakfast at Red Tea After a good rest, we decided to try Red Tea, a restaurant we’d noticed always had a big queue. Despite our limited time, we managed to grab breakfast there. I enjoyed ham and egg noodle soup while Sur settled for his usual pineapple bun, which he appreciated for its generous use of butter.

To travel to Macau, we needed to clear immigration and received Macau entry stamp stickers, which we had to keep until our departure. We boarded the TurboJet and had booked premium Grand tickets, which gave us priority seating in the front. The VIP seating was mostly empty, and the hospitality was excellent, with refreshments served. The VIP tickets also included a drop-off at our hotel.

Upon reaching Macau, we headed to our hotel, the Greenery Inn. After spending a week in a cramped room in Hong Kong, the spacious room at Greenery Inn was a welcome relief. It even had a seating area near the window, which we appreciated.

We went to the nearby Victoria Harbour Restaurant for lunch and ordered soup. Here, we encountered a challenge: unlike in Hong Kong, English was not widely spoken in Macau. The signs were in Portuguese, and few people spoke English. We used a translator app to order our meal, which helped us navigate the language barrier.

Day 8: Sightseeing in Macau

Since we only had one day in Macau, we booked a sightseeing tour. However, getting to the pick-up point proved to be a challenge. Signboards were in Portuguese, and few people spoke English. Additionally, we needed exact change for the bus fare, and our Octopus card from Hong Kong didn’t work here. Thankfully, a helpful student guided us on where to get off the bus, and we managed to reach just in time to catch our tour bus, much to the surprise of our guide.

Once on the tour, our guide provided detailed explanations as we explored the city. We passed by landmarks such as the Grand Prix Macau, the statue of Kun Iam (goddess of mercy), and glimpsed the border with China on the other side.

Our first stop was A-Ma Temple, dedicated to the Holy Mother. Afterward, we visited Koi Kei Bakery, renowned for its delicious egg tarts, which we savored and also took some to go.

Next on the itinerary was the iconic Macau Tower, followed by a visit to the ruins of St. Paul’s, which had a fascinating history of burning down thrice during construction. It was surprising to learn about its mishap. The streets around it were paved with Goan cobblestones, adding to the charm.

We explored Senado Square, a bustling hub for shopping, before heading to the Venetian, the largest casino in Macau. Inside, it felt like a different world, but as it was my first time in a casino, I just took a quick glance before returning.

After a day filled with sightseeing and new experiences, we returned to the hotel for a much-needed rest. Despite the challenges with transportation and language barriers, we managed to make the most of our time in Macau, forming friendships within our tour group along the way.

Day 9: Return to Bangalore

We checked out of our hotel in Macau and boarded the TurboJet, which had arranged a pick-up for us. The journey back to Hong Kong was smooth and comfortable.

Upon arrival in Hong Kong, we made sure to surrender our Octopus card at the airport to get the remaining balance refunded. It was a straightforward process, and we appreciated the convenience of using the card throughout our trip.

After completing the formalities with the Octopus card, we proceeded to the airport for check-in. Thankfully, everything went smoothly, and we were soon ready to board our flight back home.

Our flight back to Bangalore was uneventful, and we landed safely at our destination. It marked the end of our memorable journey through Hong Kong and Macau, filled with adventures, cultural discoveries, and new experiences.

 

May 31, 2024

Cambodia: A Journey through Temples, Culture and Heart-wrenching past

Filed under: International Travel — jani @ 6:28 pm

About Cambodia: It’s a captivating nation in Southeast Asia, is renowned for its stunning array of temples that dot its landscape. These temples, both discovered and still undiscovered, stand as a testament to Cambodia’s rich history and cultural heritage. Among them, the iconic ruins of Angkor Wat reign supreme, capturing the imagination of travelers from around the world.

Cambodia boasts thousands of temples, each with its own unique charm and significance. Many of these temples date back centuries and showcase exquisite architectural styles influenced by Hinduism and Buddhism. While some temples have been meticulously restored and are popular tourist destinations, others remain hidden gems waiting to be explored.

Visa: Indian nationals traveling to Cambodia can conveniently apply for an e-visa through the official Cambodian e-visa website (https://www.evisa.gov.kh/). The e-visa application process is straightforward and typically results in the visa being issued within 2-3 days. This e-visa allows entry into Cambodia for tourism or business purposes and is essential for a hassle-free arrival.

This destination had been on my bucket list ever since I watched the movie Tomb Raider, which was filmed in Cambodia. Initially, I hadn’t planned to join the trip due to work commitments, but when my last-minute work trips were postponed, I seized the opportunity to join Santosh’s group from Exotic Expeditions.

Given that there are no direct flights from India to Cambodia, our itinerary included a stopover in Bangkok, Thailand on the way there, and a return journey through Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. Despite the additional travel legs, I was excited for the adventure ahead and eager to explore the captivating landscapes and ancient wonders that Cambodia has to offer, inspired by the cinematic allure of Tomb Raider.

Navigating transit hurdles during international travel can be daunting, especially when faced with unexpected ticketing issues requiring immigration clearance during layovers. In this instance, Thai Air Asia’s ticketing error resulted in separate booking references (PNRs), necessitating immigration clearance and recheck-in during the Thailand layover. During the travel period, both Thailand and Malaysia offered visa waivers for transit passengers, alleviating the need for additional visas and filling out the arrival form for Malaysia ensured compliance with immigration protocols, facilitating a smoother entry process. These proactive measures helped mitigate transit challenges, allowing for a more seamless journey to Cambodia.

Day 1: Arrival in Phnom Penh and Exploring

Our journey began as Sur, Titli, and I boarded our flight from Bangalore, filled with anticipation for our adventure in Cambodia. Titli, arriving early at the airport, checked in ahead of us, while I had different PNR due to airline’s fault and ground staff couldn’t help either. Sur came to the rescue by suggesting we check in my luggage under his PNR, which was issued with a single PNR for both legs of the journey. This clever workaround saved me time during our layovers.

However, my arrival in Bangkok Phnom Penh encountered a hiccup as the transfer desk directed me to clear immigration, as I had different PNRs, even though it was a connecting ticket. Thai immigration was initially perplexed by this request, leading to a delay as Sur’s attempts to accompany me were refused. After some back-and-forth with immigration officers, I was eventually cleared and directed to the check-in counter. Thanks to not having checked baggage, I swiftly obtained my boarding pass with the assistance of airline staff, skipping the queue and reuniting with Sur and Titli in time for our onward flight.

Upon landing in Phnom Penh, we navigated immigration smoothly and made our way to the SIM Boutique Hotel. Despite arriving early for check-in, we patiently waited for our rooms to be allocated. Exhausted from the journey, we dozed off in the lobby until the receptionist kindly accommodated us with an early check-in.

Later in the day, our group expanded with the arrival of Divya, Sapna, Santosh, and newcomers Reema and Fatima who were coming joining us post their Vietnam trip. Eager to explore the local scene, Sur and I grabbed a quick lunch at a nearby spot, Wheat and Beans Café, before taking a leisurely stroll in the area.

As evening descended, we immersed ourselves in the vibrant night market, browsing through stalls filled with local crafts and souvenirs. Santosh and I ventured further to indulge in authentic Cambodian cuisine, tasting pork porridge, chicken soup, and the unique bird’s nest drink.

Meanwhile, some in our group opted for Indian fare at Indian Royal Food, only to be disappointed by the portion sizes, prices, and lacklustre hospitality.

After a full day of travel and exploration, we retreated to our accommodations for a well-deserved rest, eagerly anticipating the adventures that awaited us in the days ahead.

Day 2: Royal Palace Museum, Killing Fields, and Museum Visit

The second day of our Cambodia adventure was filled with profound experiences and historical insights.

We began the day with a quick breakfast before heading to the Royal Palace Museum in Phnom Penh. Upon arrival, we encountered a dress code requirement prohibiting sleeveless attire. Despite Divya’s resourcefulness in bringing a shawl to cover up, the staff insisted she purchase a loose t-shirt to comply with the dress code. Surprisingly, the t-shirt matched her outfit and became a humorous anecdote amidst our sightseeing.

Our guided tour of the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda was enlightening. The Royal Palace, serving as the official residence of the Cambodian monarchs since its construction in the 1860s, showcased distinctive Khmer architecture. Divided into four main compounds, the palace complex included the Silver Pagoda, Khemarin Palace, and Throne Hall, each with its own historical significance and architectural marvels.

The Silver Pagoda, situated within the palace complex, housed precious national treasures, including the “Emerald Buddha” and a Maitreya Buddha adorned with diamonds. Murals depicting local interpretations of the Ramayana adorned the walls, showcasing the blending of cultural influences.

Following the palace visit, we visited the chilling yet essential Choeung Ek Genocidal Center, also known as the Killing Fields. Here, we confronted the harrowing atrocities committed by Pol Pot during the Khmer Rouge regime from 1975 to 1979, which claimed nearly three million lives. The audio tour provided haunting details of the brutal executions and forced labor inflicted upon victims who were educated specially the doctors, lawyers and teachers, He wanted only people who were uneducated and peasants who were working in the field inspite of him being educated in France. So he lied to the people in the city, saying due to war they are relocating them to the new place and they killed all them in secrecy. The minors were hired from peasant community, brainwashed to torture these people. There was a diplomat who was asked to come back to the country to help, only to be executed, another New Zealand citizen who was sailing and his bad luck he was in Cambodian waters and he also was executed. Wrong stories were written to say they were spies and the victims didn’t have an option as they know no matter what they are going to be tortured and killed. This site was earlier Chinese cemetery and its little outskirts, so while they were killing, they were hanging a loudspeaker with their local song so that no one could hear the victim’s cry. The women were stripped and children’s head was hit in the tree and killed. They used farming tools like pickaxe and palm leaves steam which is very sharp to hit and slit the throat as buying guns were expensive. There are more to be unearthed specially around the small water body as they wanted to leave these souls at rest. The field were found when a potato farmer while harvesting he ended up seeing the skulls and stains etc. Walking through the mass burial sites and reflecting on the profound loss, we were deeply moved by the memorial’s solemn reminder of Cambodia’s tragic past.

After this emotional visit, we gathered for lunch at Lotus Restaurant, opting for familiar Indian cuisine.

Our next stop was the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, formerly a school turned torture center under the Khmer Rouge. Sur and I listened to the audio guide as others found it too overwhelming to hear more of the gruesome details. The museum’s classrooms, once scenes of unimaginable horror, left an indelible impression on us all.

To conclude the day on a reflective note, we visited Wat Phnom, a historic Buddhist temple symbolizing Phnom Penh’s identity. Returning to our accommodations, some of us relaxed by the pool while others caught up on work. We opted for room service, enjoying duck breast and French fries before retiring for the night, contemplating the weight of the day’s experiences.

As we processed the complexities of Cambodia’s history, the resilience of its people, and the impact of the Khmer Rouge era, we carried with us a profound sense of reflection and reverence for the country’s journey of healing and remembrance.

Day 3: Journey to Siem Reap and Exploring the Local Culture

After a restful sleep, we began our day with a quick breakfast and set out for Siem Reap. The drive was almost eight hours long. Along the way, we made a stop to taste local fruits and observed roadside vendors selling fried insects as snacks, though none of us tried them. The variety of fruits we encountered was vast and surprisingly familiar, reminiscent of those found in India. We saw jackfruit, durian, tender coconut, mango, mangosteen, longan, rambutan, Indian date, star fruit, monkey pod, jicama, wood apple, June plum, rose apple, bilimbi, eggfruit, santol soaked in chili and salt, star gooseberry, jujube, and many others. This familiarity made us feel as if we were back in India.

Upon arriving at Siem Reap, we stopped for a meal at Vanakkam Restaurant, an Indian restaurant. The food was good, providing a comforting taste of home. Afterward, we proceeded to the Central Privilege Hotel. Initially, the hotel was a bit disappointing. It lacked an elevator, which posed a challenge for those with suitcases, though we managed with our backpacks. We were assigned a room on the fourth floor, providing a good workout but not much fun under the hot sun, especially when tired.

Our room was decent but had a quirky bathroom setup. The showerhead was positioned near the washbasin without a separate shower space, resulting in the entire floor getting wet. We also found a wooden ladder inside the room, which Divya pointed out was for drying towels. The shower water pressure was low, making it a lengthy process to shower. Even after informing the housekeeping staff, the issue remained unresolved. Despite these hiccups, the hotel’s sustainable model, using mostly wooden and locally sourced materials, was impressive. Their exceptional hospitality made up for the initial disappointments.

In the evening, we headed to the riverside night market for some street shopping and then visited Pub Street. The area had a lively atmosphere with good pubs and restaurants. We tried some ice cream rolls, which were okay, and then returned to the hotel for a well-deserved night’s rest.

Day 4: Exploring the Majestic Temples of Angkor

After breakfast, we set out for another exciting day, finally visiting Angkor Wat. First, we collected our tickets, which were issued with photos and necessary for entry to multiple sites. It’s crucial to keep the ticket safe until the end of your visit, as losing it can prevent entry to other sites.

Angkor Wat is a Hindu-Buddhist temple complex in Cambodia, located within the ancient Khmer capital city of Angkor. Spanning 162.6 hectares, it holds the title of the largest religious structure in the world according to Guinness World Records. Our knowledgeable guide provided detailed explanations, enhancing our understanding and appreciation of the site. Though much of the complex lies in ruins due to destruction during the Thai war, restoration efforts are evident, though the patchwork is visible.

One of the highlights was the stunning reflection of the temple in a nearby water body, creating an almost surreal image. Before entering the main complex, we visited the Vishnu temple, featuring intricate 12th-century carvings, including the largest depiction of the churning of the sea of milk.

We also ascended to the top of the temple, an area where hats and umbrellas are not allowed despite the scorching heat. This part of the temple is believed to be the stairway to heaven. Some of us made the climb while others waited below.

Next, a short drive brought us to Ta Prohm temple, famous for the massive trees growing out of its ruins. The temple, built without mortar, was abandoned and subsequently overtaken by the jungle. The intertwining roots and stones create a striking and picturesque scene, making it one of the most popular temples in the area. Ta Prohm has been on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 1992 and is often referred to as the “Tomb Raider” temple due to its appearance in the 2000 Lara Croft movie.

Our journey continued with another drive to Bayon Temple. This richly decorated Khmer temple is related to Buddhism and was built in the late 12th or early 13th century as the state temple of King Jayavarman VII. Located at the center of Jayavarman’s capital, Angkor Thom, Bayon is known for its multitude of serene and smiling stone faces of Buddha, believed to be modeled on King Jayavarman VII. These faces adorn the many towers that jut out from the upper terrace and cluster around the central peak.

After a tiring day under the hot sun, we returned to the hotel. In the evening, we headed back to Pub Street and enjoyed a great meal at Café Latino. The food was excellent, providing a perfect end to our day before we returned to the hotel for a good night’s rest.

Day 5: Leisure and a Visit to Kampong Phluk

Due to the heatwave, we decided to take it easy in the morning. We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast and relaxed for the first half of the day. In the afternoon, we headed to Kampong Phluk, a commune in the Prasat Bakong District of Siem Reap Province. The name Kampong Phluk means “Harbor of the Tusks.” This community primarily relies on fishing, especially shrimp, for survival during Cambodia’s wet season.

First, we visited the local market before heading to the village. Since it was summer, the water levels were low, allowing us to explore the stilted houses that are usually surrounded by water during the wet season. Interacting with the locals was a delightful experience. We tasted a delicious sweet potato cutlet and saw a lady making crispy thin pancakes. Another woman was eating these pancakes with an assortment of fresh leaves. Intrigued, Santosh and I tried it as well. The dish had a distinct shrimp flavor, which we mostly enjoyed.

We then took a boat ride, but the low water levels made navigation difficult. Our boat faced some technical issues, moving slowly until we eventually reached a floating restaurant. After having some drinks, we waited for sunset. The restaurant also had a few crocodiles, adding an element of excitement. We captured some beautiful sunset photos before heading back. Unfortunately, our boat encountered more trouble on the return trip, leaving us stuck until another boat came to our rescue and brought us back to the shore.

Upon returning to the hotel, we decided to unwind with some drinks. The hotel staff were kind enough to allow us to use their restaurant area, even letting us bring alcohol from outside, which is usually not permitted. Since we returned late, we had the place to ourselves, and we were grateful for their hospitality. We ordered food from outside, enjoyed a relaxing evening, and then went to rest, ending our day on a comfortable note.

Day 6: Departure from Siem Reap

Our day of departure arrived, marking the end of our brief but memorable trip. Santosh usually organizes nine-day trips, but this one was shortened as it was customized for another group who were combining their visit to Cambodia with a trip to Vietnam. Had I known this beforehand, I might have planned to join separately for a longer duration. Despite my disappointment over the shorter trip, it was time to head back home.

We made our way to Siem Reap Airport. Since Titli had excess luggage, we helped her out. The airport was quite empty with only a few flights operating. We took the opportunity to explore the duty-free shops, particularly those featuring Cambodian products, and picked up some local drinks as souvenirs.

Boarding the flight was smooth, but as usual, I had a different PNR from the group, so upon landing in Kuala Lumpur, I needed to check in separately. Fortunately, the transfer desk informed me that I did not need to clear immigration and could proceed directly to the gate, which was a relief. Unfortunately, we missed the duty-free shopping at Kuala Lumpur Airport, assuming there would be shops near the gate, but there were none.

Hungry, we found the only open restaurant and had chicken rice. Most vegetarian options were sold out, so the others had pastries. After our meal, we boarded our flight to Bangalore. Upon arrival, we picked up our luggage and returned Titli’s excess luggage that we had carried. Despite the trip being shorter than expected, it was filled with good memories and experiences.

 

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